My starter kicks in and out if it even kicks in and I am only getting two volts to starter relay when ignition switch is in start position. I can jump it across and it will turn over fine. New relay, new battery, new mini starter, is my ignition switch bad? Thanks!

Depending on the year, wiring, etc, Could be the ignition switch, the bulkhead connection, the Neutral safety switch, associated grounds, or the relay itself. the reported 2V to the relay would be an indicator of where to start.

Check the bulkhead connectors..
These get corroded and oxidized over the years.
Pull them apart, kleen the connections, crimp down slightly the female tab connectors and lube up with dia-lectric grease.

Just my $0.02...

seperate the bulkhead. jump across the (2) power in terminals so the inside is getting fire. have a helper turn the key to crank. see what you get for voltage at the rear bulkhead, the yellow wire "st" circuit that feeds the relay "ign" terminal

Year, make & model please.

1972 dart swinger. I never give the bulkhead a thought will check that. New relay still did same new battery cables battery in trunk with ground to framerail ground and greased and bolted good and a ground from frame rail to engine. New mini starter and did same. sometimes it starts and most the time it won't and while it's turning over kicks in and out. I will check and clean and grease the bulkhead. Thanks guys!

didn't know it was a trunk mounted batt & that does change things. Always done it since batt moved to trunk? Alot depends on how you wired it and the gauge of the main cables from trunk up front (that causes people alot of issues). You might disconnect the trunk batt & take it up front & jump it to the st relay and eng block & see if it straightens out. Batt fully charged of course. Holler when you can

I have 2 gauge from battery to starter and 2 gauge from starter to relay. And a 2 gauge ground and 2 gauge ground frame to engine. And I didn't have trouble right away when moving battery to trunk. But did a month later. So it very could be that. Any ideas on a fix?

If 2ga worked in the beginning then it is OK now. With electrical issues a person wants to start with the batt. any possibility you can sub in a known good one to elim that? Then start cleaning ALL connections including the ground path. Might be an internal starter issue but more likely connections/terminals having borderline continuity. A longer shot would be if the eng friction has increased (I ain't thinking that). I would tho ground the coil secondary wire when it does it to take eng compression out of the picture (it'd take 1 minute). Holler back when you can with any news.

You mentioned that it turns over fine if you jump it at the starter relay. It tells me that you have the necessary voltage at the starter relay to activate the solenoid and the ground is present from the neutral safety switch. That's a valid test and should indicate the issue is in the direction that ends up at the ignition switch. According to the wiring diagram, Dark green/red from the starter relay to the bulkhead terminal (middle connector, terminal "L". Changes color to yellow inside and goes directly to the ignition switch. Seems simple enough. I don't know if it's specific to Mopars but their bulkhead terminals seem to have a lot of issues but probably just age. As mentioned several times, bulkhead terminals are always suspect. I've read lots of posts on electrical issues and I'd bet that 90% of the time it ends up being either the bulkhead connections or a bad ground.

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1972/72DartA.JPG
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1972/72DartB.JPG

Shorthorse is dead on correct (brain fart on my part), With it cranking fine when you jump the starter relay "batt" stud to the nearby brown wire "sol" wire that tells us (everyone but me evidently!) that the batt and large cables and their ground path are OK.

Agree, as the op surmised, the problem is on the control side of the relay. Whether or not it's the signal from the switch or the ground through the case is the question.
Seems like the op is aware of voltage drop testing even if he doesn't know what it's called.

So here's how to check: take your meter,positive lead backprobed into the signal wire from the ignition switch, negative probe to battery negative terminal. What voltage do you get? If less than 10, the problem is towards the ignition switch. If more than 10 the problem is likely a poorly grounded relay.

I have ground behind the relay to metal and dielectric greased and a new self tapping screw. I am getting 2 or so volts from the wire either unhooked or hooked to relay while turning key to start position. I haven't checked bulkhead connection. Will tomorrow. Also recheck all grounds. I have ignition switches to put in that I know are good just wondering if it might be something else. Thanks for everyone's help