|
Re: Challenger Chassis Stiffening Questions
[Re: BigDawg72]
#1966728
12/10/15 12:32 AM
12/10/15 12:32 AM
|
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 12,314 Looking for a way out of Middl...
IMGTX
I Live Here
|
I Live Here
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 12,314
Looking for a way out of Middl...
|
I use RV Leveling jack stands for the supports. They are cheap, screw up and down for adjustments and if you add an additional nut you can make them lock in place to prevent accidental adjustment if that were ever a problem. Available at Walmart or many other places. They look like these. Cousin Eddie Approved
|
|
|
Re: Challenger Chassis Stiffening Questions
[Re: IMGTX]
#1966989
12/10/15 12:28 PM
12/10/15 12:28 PM
|
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 87 Bama
BigDawg72
OP
member
|
OP
member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 87
Bama
|
Thanks for the tip on the RV jacks. That's much cheaper than the 3" square tubing I was considering and no fab time! I will definitely be making a Walmart run for those. I will probably add a jam nut like you suggested for added security.
Anyone have suggestions as to where is the best place to check for level front to back? I am thinking just use the door sill?
Last edited by BigDawg72; 12/10/15 12:30 PM.
|
|
|
Re: Challenger Chassis Stiffening Questions
[Re: BigDawg72]
#1967016
12/10/15 01:13 PM
12/10/15 01:13 PM
|
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,298 West Coast, USA
jbc426
master
|
master
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,298
West Coast, USA
|
While you are doing this, a lot of the factory chassis measurements are shown in the factory FSM = Field Service Manual. I'm sure it would help you verify your chassis straightness prior to adding reinforcements.
I used the US Cartool chassis kit on my '68 A-Body convertible and added a home-built Monte Carlo bar, which really eliminated the little cowl shake that still remained. Initially I installed the subframe connectors and drove the car for a while. I could really feel the improvement in chassis rigidity from adding those, but it also really made the cowl shake noticeable on bad roads.
Once I added the rest of the stiffening kit, the majority of the cowl shake was eliminated, but it wasn't until I added the Monte Carlo brace above the engine that all signs of cowl shake disappeared. I never did reinforce the rear frame section, but I don't feel any movement back there either.
The biggest help on these old uni-bodies, is starting with a rust free, never-been- hit chassis. Unfortunately, most folks don't live in an area conducive to these cars remaining rust free.
1970 Plymouth 'Cuda #'s 440-6(block in storage)currently 493" 6 pack, Shaker, 5 speed Passon, 4.10's 1968 Plymouth Barracuda Convertible 408 Magnum EFI with 4 speed automatic overdrive, 3800 stall lock-up converter and 4.30's (closest thing to an automatic 5 speed going)
|
|
|
Re: Challenger Chassis Stiffening Questions
[Re: BigDawg72]
#1967169
12/10/15 04:18 PM
12/10/15 04:18 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,405 Pikes Peak Country
TC@HP2
master
|
master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,405
Pikes Peak Country
|
Thanks for the tip on the RV jacks. That's much cheaper than the 3" square tubing I was considering and no fab time! I will definitely be making a Walmart run for those. I will probably add a jam nut like you suggested for added security.
Anyone have suggestions as to where is the best place to check for level front to back? I am thinking just use the door sill? Those stands make it easy to level. I use 8 of them so I can adjust the end extremities as well as the passenger compartment area. Door sills right next to the pinch weld will work for front/rear level. Using the FSM body alignment measurement you can then check the extremities for level against the sills.
|
|
|
|
|
|