A 3G Hemi:
-doesn't add weight. Similar to aluminum headed LA.
-does improve reliability.
-has factory serpentine belt.
-is much wider than an LA motor and is an extremely tight fit in an A body (tons of room in a B or E body).
-easier and cheaper to EFI 3G hemi vs LA.
-new fuel system required (range: $250-$2000+; $250 works fine, ~$600 gets you a new tank with everything from tanks inc).
-a built 3G short block / long block are similar in cost to a built LA motor (or cheaper, if you decide to go hydraulic roller in the LA).
-doesn't leak.
-does require new headers, engine mounts, and pan.

If starting without any parts, it's not much more than a built carbed LA motor. The real issue is the tight fit in an A body and the extra effort that goes with that. IMO, that's a sufficient reason to not swap. But you already know I swapped anyway (pulled W2 headed 408 to go 3G hemi, now on my 3rd 3G hemi in this car).

So Wade to do a clean sheet swap now, budget wise for racing, what would you do as far as a Hemi parts list? I am not New Gen Hemi knowledgeable, Could I carb it and save $$/hassle or stay with FI? Which headers work? Which Manual Trans?

TTI Borgeson swap headers. You can use existing trans if you already run a small block, just swap flywheels. EFI is the way to go imo.

I'm not arguing, but how is a properly built LA and less reliable than a properly built 3G? Heck I got over 200K out of a roller 318 LA and it's sitting on the stand as a spare still ready to run without rebuild.

I'd throw in the Gen III Hemi any day if I had the time, skill, and patience. Right now, I don't, so LA it is.

Better gaskets, simpler ignition, cleaner running, more efficient, 0 maintenance, big power and its a Hemi. Like I said earlier an LA can be built very competitively for pennies on the dollar but not nearly as reliable above 500hp as a Gen III.

Emil hit the high points.

I'll break it down into a few categories:
-ecu, EFI or Carb (need one or other)
-Hemi specific swap parts (motor mounts, oil pan, etc)
-fuel system
-motor build

ECU:
EFI computer is $1300 with within harness. That will control spark and fuel. Full sequential. Tune it yourself.
Carb spark control - $600? MSD I believe. Intake to get would be one of the following: low rise: Joe's new intake- I think it's sub $700, and appears to be the best power low rise intake in early testing. High rise (very high) Ritter intake- $799 or less, drag pak style intake. It's what all the engine masters guys run.

Hemi specific swap parts. Plan on there being fitment issues and there being fab work to adjust mounts and/or dents needed on headers.
$750 TTI A body Borgeson swap headers. (Swap borgeson hardware to low profile Allen)
$150-$250 TTI motor mounts
$150 oil filter block off plate and remote oil filter with lines (don't buy a kit) OR 45* adapter and fab work on mounts and K member (I did first, Emil did second). If doing remote, MUST open up 3/8 NPT fittings going on the side of block to 1/2" ID.
$250 flywheel
$90 starter
$40-$60 pilot bearing
Clutch, tranny, etc, all same as LA motor
$200 radiator
$50 radiator hoses
$60 electric fan (efi ecu will control it, carb ecu will not)
$200-$400- oil pan
$75- pickup
$40- truck windage and gasket (extra RTV needed where gasket and pan rail deviate)
$15- Mopar brand Engine RTV (must)

Fuel system options:
$250-$400- carb electric pump ($100)into BC broncos accumulator ($70) into walbro gsl 392 ($90) into corvette filter regulator ($40). Plus lines and fittings ($100). -what I've used for for 8,500 miles of my swap. Could run down to 2gallons or so without issue. Did have a pump failure partially due to tank not vented. Did have fuel temp issues.
$600- tanks inc tank ($230) plus pickup, pump (walbro 255lph or 400 LPH or 460 lph e85), level sender, etc. Still need corvette filter regulator ($40) and connections ($100) -what I'm swapping to now. Will see if it has any issues below 1/2 tank.
Other options include fab your own with gen5 Camaro pump (best for low fuel issues, worst for fab involved), Rick's ($2000), hot rod city ($900), aeromotive swapped tank on eBay ($650), etc etc.

Motor build:
For a budget build, I would do the following:
Shop for a spun rod bearing 5.7 03-08 car motor complete with front cover, coil packs, etc. ($300-$1000). Or a good deal on a bare block is fine ($300 max)
$1800-$2000 stroker kit (make a 392 ci)
$350 balance job on rotating assembly
$100 head bolts and main bolts
$60 head gaskets
$500-$600 5.7 eagle heads (09 and newer model 5.7's all have them)
$60-$400 - 6.1 balancer or ATI Balancer (used they are cheaper)
$100 timing set
$330-$450 camshaft
$200-$300 new lifters
$120 custom length pushrods
$150 oil pump- melling
$125- used 6.4 injectors (40-44#)
$90- valve covers- eagle head or 6.4 Apache head specific
Reusing from core motor you bought (prices listed in case the core is missing some things or you start with a bare block): front cover ($150), water pump ($90), idler, tensioner, cam sensor ($30), crank sensor ($30), 5.7 intake and fuel rails ($50-$100), coil packs ($100)
Possible upgrades:
Intake- $600 6.1, $200 5.7 eagle
Head porting- $500-$1500. They flow 330cfm in stock form, so not needed, but may yield 20-30 hp
6.1 block- $1000 bare

Some guys have built the 09 and newer 5.7 blocks. I am not as familiar with those. Main differences: different front cover and accessories (?), and the cam timing set is designed for VVT. Costs a bit more for the cam and lockout gear, OR a 6.4 cam can work ($100). Also there is supposed to be aftermarket VVT control coming to the market in Megasquirt form. We'll see.

Alternatively you can get a 6.4 Hemi crate motor for $7000 or so. Then get all the swap parts.

Lastly there are deals to be had on Hemi parts if you're patient and watch CL.

Good point.

What I should've said:
Arguably more reliable at higher hp levels.

The build I described above will probably make 500-550 fwhp with stock heads and a mild cam (think 227/235 @.050 on 113+3, .580 lift). LX guys regularly go 100k+ miles on that type of build and at that power level. Actually Matt Robertson had 30,000+ on track road race miles on a 5.7 based 392 before a piston failure (attributed to the piston manufacturing- mahle I believe). In a dodge magnum, no less.

Maybe an LA motor is capable of the same. If so, then no need to swap. Haha

Ok, I'll grant that making 500hp in a 3G is easier, but I've heard that stock they have their issues, rods I believe are sometimes problematic. I do like of the engineering changes like a deep skirt. I guess I gotta get it into my head that a .580 lift cam is more ok in a 3G than an LA. I just keep thinking temperamental beast. And while it might be easier to keep EFI on a 3G than add it to an LA, you still have the same issues of putting EFI into a non-EFI chassis. Years back, I was measuring out clearances to put a 3g into the 65 Cuda. Too tight for my liking, so I ended up staying LA.

Gen III's have the cam high up in the block and use SHORT pushrods. Plus the lifters are stupid beefy out of the box. My engine has a .600 lift cam and is quieter and more drivable than my old BB was with a .510 lift hydraulic flat tappet. 6.1's were stock with like .558 lift and I think 6.4's have something like .570-.580 stock. Its a whole new ball game.

So, I went autocrossing today and asked some of the other guys running CAM-T what they thought about the Supercharger vs. Stroker debate. Most of them told me to just run it as is after I get a rebuild. "What's an extra 20 lbs?" I did meet up and talk with the owner of FiTech that make a pretty nice fuel injection kit. That may definitely be a viable option.

You won't wake up with that one day, so get after it!

I'm working full time, pursuing an MBA full time and have my first kid coming in ten weeks. I'll accept your "don't have time" challenge.


Every time I think of tweaking a carb, reading plugs, valve cover leaks, oil pan leaks, frequent oil changes, weather/tune changes, long drives...I think of how awesome it'll be to have that 3rd Gen Hemi in my car and keep my LA doing what exactly I want it to do....keep my shed from flying away in high winds.

Cars are a pain no matter if they are fuel injected, carbed or super charged. Today I had an ecu on the Dart that allowed the car to idle perfect but the car would start missing at 3000 rpms. Thanks to swaptronics I diagnosed the problem and cured it at the same time. Ideas are great on paper but I would think twice about the super charger.

I vote this too... grip and rip it. Dont over think it.

I am dropping in a 70 340 hp x heads stock rebuid..came in a parts car...oil looks clean i am just going to change water pump, thermostat some gaskets and go...hopefully.