I think this needs to be moved to the Hemi Swap forum

I had to take the IAC out of the system. It's doing some weird stuff.

After being out of town for almost 2 months, it's getting closer. I'm currently sorting all the wiring, so pardon the mess.

Sure is quiet for open headers

11.5:1 and I was expecting more loudness. I blame the cam grinder.

Lol

I've had a significant powersteering leak from my inability to seal the high pressure aqp braided fittings.

I decided to take off the fabbed stuff and get a hydraulic shop to make a new hose. They quoted $200 and I was ok with that. I gritted my teeth but I didn't want a fire.

I thought about it and since I'm using the GM Type 2 pump, I was sure that there has to be a hose that does what I wanted.

The pump has an 16mm O ring style fitting on the output, and thats fine with me. I went to the parts house and looked around for a few minutes. I picked a hose that looked identical to what I asked the shop to build. From a 95 Chevy Astrovan. It's 3/8" tube with an 18mm o ring seal. I'm going to get the end cut off, and flared to -6AN 37* to mate up to the -6AN fitting from Firm Feel on my steering box.

A local shop will fix the hose for about $10. I'll be $30 in by the time its sealed up.

I pulled it out with the belt off to make sure it moves. It does. I've got the exhaust hooked up, once the belt is back on when the PS leak is fixed I'll get ready for a test drive.

It's getting better day by day. First start up with the full exhaust and everything connected.

So what did you figure out?

Literally, It was flooded. The plugs were wet and it wasn't firing off. I let it dry overnight and left it on the trickle charger and it was fine.

I think I changed too much at once. Added a proper intake and exhaust, and I messed with the throttle set screw too much after deleting the IAC.

If you go into your general settings in Tuner studio there should be a flood clear option somewhere. If you set it to say %50 it won't operate the injectors while cranking if your have more than %50 throttle. Luckily I haven't had to use it yet but I am glad its there.

Thats also where the flood clear is set on Mikes tune.

Sounds good! What idle rpm?

About 750. I think it will go lower when I take some fuel out.

I need a burnout vid.
Thanks 😊

I'm waiting on 6.1 intake gaskets. I'm 99% sure that I didn't torque the intake down properly when I first installed it. I had a hard start issue, vacuum coming from the oil cap and right angle fitting on the tower and after pulling the intake, I'm pretty sure the gaskets were warped and distorted. One of the intake ports was also torn on the O-ring.










I'm resealing the intake, making a paper intake to throttle body gasket because the BBK throttle body fits terribly and buttoning it back up. Once I get a few more heat cycles into it and I can autotune the idle out....its ready to go for a drive. The gaskets were a little to oily for this short of a run time and I don't feel the car was sealed correctly.



I also had issues with the fitment of the factory heater tubes on the 6.1...the 1/2" hose that I had to use was very close to the wiper motor and was hitting the MAP sensor on the back of the 6.1 intake.

I tapped the holes for 3/8" NPT plugs and if/when I need to install the heater, I'll run braided AN stuff out to the heater core.


Once all that is sorted, I'll do a celebratory burn out or five.

I'm going further down the rabbit hole....

I swapped intake gaskets yesterday. I torqued the intake properly this time, and instantly I noticed that I wasn't pulling vacuum from the PCV system like before. I could feel pulses coming out, and thats where I needed to be.

While I ran it with the intake improperly installed, I had two things working against me. A HUGE vacuum leak that was making my air fuel ratio all sorts of wacky, and I was pulling oil from the PCV system into the ports.

My plugs were used, stock heatrange eagle plugs by NGK. They're DONE FOR. I pulled them when they were fuel wetted yesterday and cleaned them up, but they're really stinky any black. So much so that I question if they're even firing at all. I've still got a no start issue, flood clear mode only does so much and after a few minutes of trying to get it to start it only fired once for a few seconds.


Here is what they looked like after I cleaned them up with a torch.





I've categorized what is working against me:

-11.5:1 with fuel and oil fouled plugs
-Old fuel, I'm dropping the tank this weekend and putting fresh 93.
-Oxygen sensor was run with open headers, it may be fouled out. I'll start by recalibrating
-A leaking intake (fixed, but caused problems)
-Not a lot of runtime or heat in the engine yet because of the poor idle air fuel ratio and run on problems.

I'm taking a step back and doing the following:

-Swap stock plugs for NGK 1 step colder iridium plugs
-Drop tank, replace fuel and put a new filter on the fuel system.
-Bench test all injectors and coils. I dont want the old fuel to gum the injectors up and if so...send them to get cleaned.
-As soon as its running, clean the idle fuel settings up and get it to 14.7 A/F. Once up to temp, tune further. Drive it as soon as I can and clear things out.

Have you run the spark test mode to verify all your coils are firing etc? Have you tried to check actual timing and not just basing it off of the ECU?

That and a torch to the oxygen sensor are happening tonight. A new innovate oxygen sensor is only $50 from autozone...if I can't clean it up enough.

I've not checked actual timing yet. I'll have to get with a friend who's done it.

It lives, again. I torched the oxygen sensor and spark plugs and wasn't as afraid as before to heat them up a little more. It fired right up and I was able to take fuel out easily.

Some timing adjustments are in order and it will be stable at 14.0-15.0 at idle.

Disaster avoided. My new plugs will be here tomorrow anyway so after I've got a little bit of drive ability done I'll throw those in.

Feels good to have it working again.