I have a feeling it's in the rear somewhere especially since I rebuilt the whole frontend and it didn't change anything about how the car handled. I will check the front spring bushings because I believe they were rubber when I installed the springs years ago, and will also check to see if the rearend is square. I will also roll the tires and check them. I will keep you guys updated on what I find.

My guess is that the car is rear steering from spring wrap up or bushings.

Assuming the springs, shocks, and bushings are good I vote for bent housing or axle misaligned in the chassis. The 'grip will help smooth out differring amounts of grip. The spool will just ensure the car gets pushed around.

Does the car feel like its moving by the seat of your pants or steering wheel correction??

Are you using a pinion snubber?

No pinion snubber.
The car requires steering input all the way down the track. It felt this way when we first bought the car many years ago where it would sway back and fourth requiring a lot of steering input. I was able to eliminate the problem when I put it on a alignment rack and saw it had negative caster in the frontend. It now has a good amount of caster but has started swaying again but is more controllable this time around. My mom is 65 years old and races for the fun of it. The car run 6.80-90's with a pump gas small block in it and she doesn't feel very comfortable in the car with it moving around so much.

Given the history and steerring input needed I would think it's not the tires. I've driven cars that move around (I call it wallowing) but you shouldn't have to go crazy driving it to keep it going straight even if the sidewalls move around a little.

I think this steering input is PART of the problem. Some cars with slicks, especially smaller ones, tend to sashay a bit going down the track. If you are trying to correct every little wiggle with steering input, you are simply compounding the issue and soon the sashay will be bad. I run into this often with guys who are used to drag radials and bolt on bias tires for a race at a bad track. The radials drive SO good, that on slicks they tend to try and control the car TOO much. Once I tell them to just keep the wheel straight and let the car just go down the track...the ill handling usually goes away

My old pump gas Duster had a 8 3/4 that was bending while I raced and drove it, it would wonder on the street with mix type tires, bias in the front with radials in the back and do the same with radials in the front and bias in the back It wouldn't wonder as much on the street with the same type tires front and back but it would go straight at the tracks with either combination, both 1/8 and 1/4 with mixed type of tires I ended up finding a worn idler arm, it had been replaced when I first assemlbed the car and it had less than 3000 miles total on it whe I replaced it the second time, that straighten all the problems out after that

I actually thought that she might be overdriving the car also until I made a pass in it.
I have driven a lot of different cars ranging from all types or tire sizes, suspension setups, and power and some cars will move around and not require any type of steering input. Super Stock cars will get that radial wobble sometimes, but this car has to be corrected going down the track. It swayed with the old alignment with the posi in it and was corrected with the alignment to where it would drive straight down the track in all conditions. Now that the axles are locked together it is highlighting a different issue I need to find. I have two travel races the next two weeks with a LODRS event in Noble,Ok and a National in Dallas so the car is on the back burner since the bracket season is all but over this season.

Can you get any more caster in it?

Kevin

Just for grins, what size are the slicks/wheels. I had a car that would move around from too narrow of a wheel in the slicks with too little air.

I'm of the opinion that something is loose in the rear. Do you have shackles or sliders? Springs or ladders? One of those back tires is moving forward or backward, meaning something is bent, broken or wore out making it self-steering. Find it before it breaks completely, wouldn't want your mom to get hurt!

I experienced that same issue using 28 x 10 slicks on 8-inch rims. I couldn't get a decent footprint unless the air pressure was so low the back end would start to sway back and forth right about the time I'd shift into high gear.

It's the M/T 28x9" slick with tubes on a 8" rim. We run 13psi in the tires. It is a stock suspension car with just a set of HD leaf springs on it. I plan to check the spring bushings as well as the housing. If I don't find anything I'll recheck the frontend and maybe put it on a alignment rack.

Do you have access to a go pro camera? They are awesome tools for problems like this

Slick rollout sizes the same?

What bearing did you use on new axels?

Did you use the green bearings or the taper?

Put a radial on it and enjoy going faster and not dancing around.

I agree with 1980volare..........