It's usually height that is the Gremlin, but I can see the width on the far corners where it has a compressed area maybe being an issue.
Funny enough, as much as I love Aluminum, I always had the jitters concerning aluminum rockers so I went with heavy steel roller types.
HS are bulky rockers IIRC to make strength where it is needed.

That`s my concern and you are correct about the HS`s being extra bulky but was always told the comp. stainless or similar rockers couldn`t handle roller high spring pressures.......

I remember some guys doubling up the gaskets to clear
rockers BUT I forget what rockers on BB... on my covers I had
to mill the outer(lower edge) to clear my springs.. I am
using 1.65 OD and things were hitting before I milled the
lip... plus I had to clearance the gasket.. I use the MP
silicone over a steel core.. life time ones)... all extra
work to run that diameter spring... even the 1.55" OD spring
was gonna hit or be very close

Now this is goin where I have no desire to go so I think the mp`s will stay on at this point.......

SB and BB are 2 different worlds... you stock style covers
(with the out side lip) are the difference.. I HAVE to use
the reverse lip covers.. and that in ts self creates issues
that has to be dealt with... there is NO WAY I can use a stock
style cove on my engines(any of my SBs)

What is a reverse lip...........have no clue?

Just like it says... the lip on your covers goes out
and you can use a 3/4" long bolt/or stud... on mine the
lip is turned inside(this moves the vertical wall out
farther) but I have to use a 5" long stud to come up to
the top.. here is another pic.. if you see you have a lip
of the cover that is outside that I dont have(thats where
you bolt yours on)

Hey Thumper,

On our 452 with Edelbrock RPM heads we have HS 1.6 rockers and Moroso stamped steel covers, with the Moroso blue silicone gaskets. No hitting so far. I think Dan (RIP) had to do some trimming of the baffles on our old Mopar stamped steel ones with the same rockers. It was not much as far as I can recall. The Moroso are similar in size as far as I can tell but will have to double check the baffle arrangement (or lack thereof) the next time I have them off.

Not sure why anyone would bother with stainless steel inside an engine, it is covered in oil all the time. Why not go with a good quality steel alloy.

These are reverse lip wide valve covers for the W series heads.



I tried to do what FMJ did on some old Moroso valve covers but they didn't come out so great. Had a hard time tapping the letters down, the metal gets work hardened. Too much work to get them looking decent and using filler would add weight back. Just went back to the cast ones.

Hey MR P you wouldnt happen to have a extra stud kit for the wide covers for sale would ya?

I see and like that deal WAY better and would think it seals better as well....... Thankxx David for that info and I`m still on the fence here but will figure something out soon.

Great info for guys that may be having warped covers, bad gaskets or slung head rails. Those inverted rail sealing MOPAR covers look and take the part.
I've seen some Big Block's leak more oil than a NYC Pizza slice.LOL.

I hear ys there on the leaks TILL I got Superformance gaskets and zero leaks for many years now.

No.. none for sale.. I have part of a set.. but I'm
keeping them

So I found a few photos from the start of the covert covers.
RMCHRGR, If you ever want to revisit the cover story, here are some helpful tip flicks to walk through.

Here's a virgin cover just before going undercover.

I suspect that the small block covers are a little less, probably 1 Lb each. In any case, compare this to a cast type.
I just remembered that these covers aside from being weak in material at the mounting points also have a small rail wall that probably is suspect in letting most gaskets slip through thus creating a gap.
Results: Oil leak like the BP spill.

To start, a good chunk of solid steel to act as a dolly of some sought is a given.
Here is one I found at a local steel mill surplus store. Weighs a mini ton, but rock solid and has helped me create lots of things small and large.

A good pair of body hammers is also a given to getting a final flat surface.
These babies are American made and vintage as well. I scour the swap meets for good used old school tools. Not the offshore junk.

Slipping the dolly underneath for the first hammer hits keeps things in perspective and from getting out of shape.
Remember that these covers are already slim in their skin.
I carefully flat hammer away working across every letter till they invert on the other side.
I then turn it around and bang outward towards the outer face and then sometimes back inwards till you get a pretty much flat surface.

This how it looks after a few back and forth work hits to both the underside and outer face. The letters pretty much flatten out and leave only a small reservoir line of their letter shapes.