is this still the product to use to keep bare metal looking like bare metal and preventing rust?

Stuff I used it on still looks great!

Can it be used on exhaust systems?

it may work well on a low mileage vehicle kept from the weather, but i used it on some nuts and bolts on my truck and they practically rusted like nothing was on them

I'm very happy with how it works but it takes more than advertised in my experience.

more initial product or coats?

Maybe more coats would have worked better for me. It seems to be some type of a wax(?) that melts with the heat. I`m pretty sure I followed the directions correctly.

Supposedly one is good enough for one car. I've used two for my restoration. I'm sure some times I was putting it on too thick, but I really think enough for one car is a little bit of a stretch.

Love the product by the way.

I just read through the test results. Seems like pretty sturdy and resilient stuff.

anyone have any real world experience of the product NOT working as advertised?



And too bad you have to heat the part to brush on the product. RPM needs to create a similar product that comes in a spray solution so you can spray it into nooks and crannies of car body cavities where you don't get paint applied.

I need to do something to my 06 Ram 2500 to prevent the sheet metal from rusting away, and I need to do it before any rust even starts!

i asked cause i have to replace my master cylinder and they are SO nice when you get them but in a couple of year exposed to humidity and dripped brake fluid, well you all know!

Depending on the year the MC has a unique plating that is not very rust proof. Check with MasterShake340 as to what it is since I cannot remember off the top of my head. Had some plated that I did not protect with RPM and they rusted up pretty quick. The plating shop had mercy on me when I re did them. Put RPM on the and they have looked great for 4 years now.

This stuff works great but when using a heat gun it melts every brush I've used ! Maybe I can heat the part with the Heatgun and then spread the rpm with a warm hairdryer.

Morty, you are "plating" MC's? Lids maybe?

I heat the item that I am using it on by first warming in the sun. I then warm further with a heat gun. Only then do I place my brush into the RPM container loading it with the product. Then just like applying paint spread it about. Not my brush, nor any animals were hurt doing in this way.

Just did a new master cylinder last month,,,so far looks fine. Will say that using the product you might experience a slight dulling of the native metallic sheen of the original cast iron. Has been my experience, but overall a better outcome than anything else I've used.

do you have to do it a side at a time or can you heat sides and keep going? is it affected by by 'over-lap' meaning the dullness you mentioned look duller when you over-lap?

yep plated the MC and the lid. Looks great.

I smell ribs again

Leave it sun, then heat up the whole item additionally with heat gun, then rather quickly paint the whole item. Does not have to be too hot,,,would be good if RPM would suggest range of appropriate temperatures that one could test with one of those laser heat temp guns.

I would not overheat a MC as could be possible to damage seals I suppose. Some heat guns can generate a very high temp.

If you install MC and other underwood items, likely a drive of vehicle would heat up to sufficient temperature to make RPM happy.

Final finish will always be a bit duller than natural glint,,,,somewhat as a clear coat,,,not bad just a bit different.

thanks for the tips! i'll most likely swipe the wife's hairdryer while she is at work and try that first.