6061 T-6 grade aluminum.
Mostly found at your local well stocked Speed shop under the Turbo tubing sections. They also sell 30-45-60-90 degree bend sections aside from long straight sections.
Whole system weighs around 21 Lbs with Mufflers and all.
Muff were expensive though.

What kind of aluminum mufflers are you using? My car slows down about a tenth and 1 mph w/ my "full" 4" H pipe exhaust system on the car, but I bet it's more due to the weight than a restriction issue. I've never weighed it, but it's a lot. Most of the ET loss is early in the run.

I had a set made up in Canada by Unobtanium Welding to resemble the Ultra-flo Dynomax steel mufflers I had before. They were a little expensive, but only a tad below 4 lbs each.
Somewhere on this here long thread is my actual weight numbers from a steel system to a 304 stainless lightweight system and ending with this aluminum system. I think it was a 60 or so pound weight savings at the end IIRC.
I guess I was doing for the weight savings as well, but the clincher was the quiet exhaust note to hide the cam rumble thereafter. Car comes alive in full throttle though.

Why not gut the ash tray and rivet it to the dash using the side tabs? It would still look right and weigh just about nothing.

Because I still use it to house my switches inside the gut for certain mechanics in the car and I like it to function just as stock.
Once I close it, it's all clean and stock looking.
I love the challenge of making working items that are half the weight.

I'm also making the hinges to the glove box out of the light alloy to shave a few more ounces.
Every ounce will make the car bounce that much further forward. LOL

I only see 1?????????? Ar'nt you supposed to be making 2 of everything??????

Al. My man.

I believe your gloves are different.
Plymouth dash for that year are different.
I'll have a Xmas surprise for you though. Let me inspect your car.
Back in town now. Check your regular E-mail for pics.

Ain't that the truth. Bit more hairy than most.

Anyway... nice job Lee! Good to see you back at it.

Hey what's with the bar that goes across the frame connectors? Never really seen anyone do that before.

RMCHGR
Yeah, Al could use a little lean diet on that Plymouth.
I'll fill him in this coming Winter.

That cross bar which is Chromemoly serves as a front Propeller shaft loop as well as a stabilizer between both connectors. As I just noticed, one can not see the hoop loop surrounding the shaft because the photo is dark in that area, but the hoop is welded to that cross bar and the floor to prevent a cock pit breach.
I might add a rear hoop as well.

So I ASSume the carb`s workin well for ya Lee.........

Sure is.
The feel and street manners are point on, but as I mentioned before, I will have to see in the Fall how it's doing ET and MPH with some fine T&T at the track before the season ends. I usually try and run in the cooler weather.
The Silverdome runs in Detroit were clean and the car was pulling with some good steam the likes I have not seen before, but it was just shy of an 8th mile though with less shut down area, so who knows.
In short, the car is idling way better and super sharp on the go pedal. I did install it using aluminum studs, lock washers and nuts on all four corners of the plenum.LOL.

No Al, that's incorrect, 3 of everything.
Doug

Oh oh, I think I have a fan base. LOL.
I should really have a bunch of elves at a factory up north making multiples of everything.
Look in your stockings this Xmas guys.
By the way DVW, look what I found in your state city last month.
Straight out of the 60's warehouse.

C'mon Doug,give me a chance to catch up.I've been bit by Jennie Craig.Got a few ounces up my sleeve

fasteners that haven't been disturbed since who knows when.

The skeletal inner frame for the box.
Welding in the morning.

I wish I had the skills that you fellas have! I just got back from the welding shop. The guy took a shot at making my front brackets but could not get the angles right. He also knocked a 1/2 pound off each one of the big mounting pieces that the bumper brackets attach to. I may be able to tweak the aluminum brackets to make them work. Total cost was 25.00 and I supplied the 1/8" aluminum.

Hate to say this, but SOMETIMES it is what you pay for that you receive.
It is hard to make the right angles and cuts and holes. For me, Measure three times and cut two times. One cut just shy of the projected line and then the actual line to get the right cut as a fail safe. That is why my stuff takes patience and time.

I made a few brackets over the years for 70'-72'Dusters, 65' B-bodies and 68'Cuda and they were time consuming. They do look stock and are strong and light, but no one will pay for your time, let alone the materials. I did 'em as a favor for the fun.

I'm sure you will get all done eventually. Your car is light enough as it is IIRC.

It isn't that light. It was around 3600# with Jim driving it last year. I do not have a drill press and a good hole saw bit is around 20.00 down town. So I still think it was worth what I paid the guy to do it.