When ever we run NSS we switch carbs over the Edelbrock 800 1412. When we do this it has a bog right after the hit car initially goes then bogs the is fine. Bad thing is bog is not consistent. One pass its okay we can live with that to old $h!t we lost a tenth in 60 foot. Talking to guys this weekend at the Northern Class National they said drill the secondary weight. Well where do I drill? I know I need to keep track of how much I drill incase it doesn't help so I can add weight back. And help is great.

I drill mine close to the edge that is off center. I use a 1/4 inch drill. Then when I find it bogs worse than before I stick a lead fishing weight in it. I've found that when the weights are to light the secondary weight trys to open to fast, by adding weight its the air flow across it slows down enough for the engine rpm to catch up. Same thing applies to Thermoquads, most people adjust the spring to light.

That bog could also be from the accelerator pump-squirters also, you don't say if you've worked with those? I've also found that if you run the fuel level right at Edelbrock recommended settings and you haven't checked the pump height your pump can be a little above your fuel bowl level. If you watch the squirt from idle and you snap throttle a little and the squirt is delayed just a smidgen that can cause a bog also and will go away if you raise fuel bowl level just a tad.

drilling the weights will bring the secondary air flow in quicker and may make the bog worse.

I agree. My carbs were worked by Damon Kuhn ( Diamondback Carbs ). The accel. pump sends A LOT of fuel in.

I tryed moving the pump shot up and down. Still did the same thing.

I wouldn't touch the weights yet. How much time have you spent tuning this carb? the edelbrocks are picky with float level and fuel pressure. A high 11 second car will not need more pump shot than the factory setting on that carb. Not in my experience. I pulled my NSS 2x4 intake off and tried a single 800 on my car just to see what it would do as a comparison. It ran through the front half just fine ( 1.41 60ft and 6.42 ) it was laying over after that. It is more than enough carb in your case. Maybe too much. I would work with the jets, rods and springs first. What springs, jets and rods do you have in it now and what is your combo?

Go to the link Al posted and go to the white papers. You can learn a ton about tuning edelbrocks from Damon.

What squirted a sis you try?

I started thinking on what we have done with it. we was trying to get it from being lazy at the top end and im thinking that's when we started with the bog. well we have the topend deal figured out. it was to much fuel pressure. I know it has the weakest spring in it now. So rod 1444 primary jet 116 secondary jet 110 with the blue spring and in it. now im thinking its to rich at the hit. so we are going to have to play with it one weekend.

What intake are you using? For a high 11:00 car those 800's are way too big if your using the Indy nss intake. Way big plenum. We fought with the same problem with that intake with a 440 ci motor with 750's so we went to smaller carbs and that fixed it. that manifold was designed for big cubes.

This is a single 800 on a Mopar M1 intake.

my experience with those carbs is that they are jetted way too rich out of the box and i down size the squirter. an over rich condition can feel like a lean condition at times. they have .110 needle and seats with the small afb float. i don't think that float controls the fuel very well with the large needle and seat and that causes the pressure problem. the afb .101 needle seat will flow enough fuel, if you can find them. i think the larger brass float like what the 440 avs's had will help flow control. they're a different animal to tune vs a holley, but i do believe they are more reliable. i had to "go to school" on these carbs when tuning a ch28 and trying to make a smog avs run and drive smooth. basically i like them but to tune them one needs to get their head out of the holley box.

I think you have it way to fat down low. 116 with a 65/37 rod is a ton of fuel. In my experience, 110 is too much in the secondary jets also. Your combo may say otherwise.

I would get closer to a 113 primary with a medium rod. maybe 73 47 and come down to a 104 in the secondary. I dont think you need that much fuel in a high 11 second car.

if it were me, i'd take the .107's out of the secondaries and put them up front with the stock 71x47 rod. stick some 100's in the back and go to .028" squirter; as a starting point. a friend of mine has the 800avs on his 427 corvette and we went fairly big on jet down sizing.made a remarkable difference. i also look at total jet area (square inches of area) rather than just changing sizes. i use the 4% as a step rule.

I think I may just rebuild it back to stock and go from there. I know we were chasing our tail by having way to much fuel pressure.

I was having the 'bog' with the two 750s. The car would come up and then drop, then gradually pick up. I spoke with Damon and he asked me how much fuel pressure. I was at 7, and he said they will not launch at that pressure. He said raise it to 8 1/2 and almost all of the bog went away. However, it wants to stall during the turn getting off the track. But I picked up about 1.5 mph. Still working on getting the 60' back to where it was.
Good luck

had a phone call about this thread, so thought I'd chime in.....some of this is in my white papers, some not....some good advice so far, but from the sounds of it, the OP's problem is likely inconsistent intake heat. Big plenum with 800cfm on this combo is a combo for no velocity/ no main circuit actuation. Making sure the intake is warm helps. If you can a 4 hole spacer would likely help. The blue spring is likely wrong and could be some of the problem, see white paper on afb's for checking procedure. i would bet a yellow spring is what you want. The 800 is not too big, but they can be a little trickier than the 750 to make work on this type of combo. Leaving, then bogging, then going is a sign of the pump shot being used up too early. the proper springs will help, pump arm in the furthest hole inboard will help. go back to stock jetting , that should work fine.....depending on altitude, 110 front, 107 rear may be optimum. Raising pressure may help, this is not an across the board fix, it made sense for old irons combo. You may want to try adding 1/2-1 lb. be careful as too much will unseat the needles at idle. Old iron, the reason for the top end dying is a result of the increased pressure/ braking force....causes fuel to spill from bowls thru the secondary boosters. several options...dont slow down so fast, try lowering pressure a bit at a time to find a happy medium, or if you have a boost referenced regulator hook the vacuum port to manifold vacuum, this will pull pressure back at idle/ high vacuum. As already mentioned, drilling the weights will make the problem worse as the secondaries will come in sooner. There is an inherent problem with two of the internal circuits in these carbs that actually causes the exact issue , this is one of the things i address on my custom carbs, but you can make stock ones work following these directions.

Thank you very much. Mine never dies in shut down or turn off. It did have a surge at the top end from 1000 foot to finish. I think that was result of to much fuel presser 7 1/2 +. But I will take all this advise and find a weekend to put it all to the test.

I have had trouble with the pump shot plunger after I rebuilt the carb. The orange ones worked the best for me over the black ones.