Due to corrosion around the thermostat I need to find an intake for my Durango. I have found three different (at least) casting numbers and the 2000 Hollanders at the library doesn't list numbers at all, just that '98-00 are the same part. Does anybody have a list of casting numbers and years used? Application? I do know that some had EGR and some didn't (mine doesn't).

1992 through 1995 had the cast in EGR passages that run from center back port for the EGR valve to two gas outlets under each throttle butterfly. The cast-in center divider of the plenum comes down with 0.75 inches of touching the bellypan plate with its troublesome gasket.

In 1996 EGR came off in 49 states other than CA but in 1996 it seems most intake manifolds and passenger side exhaust manifolds just got block off plates to seal the prior passages.

Sometime in late 1997 or 1998 the intake manifold plenum divider was made shorter with approximately 3.5 inches of gap between its bottom edge and the bellypan plate. EGR passages were eliminated. A new camshaft with more overlap came in 1998 that increased internal EGR. All these changes improved high rpm horsepower, along with a less dense matrix freer flowing catalytic converter increased high rpm horsepower rating. A recall later occurred when the catalytic converter insides cracked and rattled.

My flange also has some corrosion pits. I have had trouble with the thermostat flange sealing during many changes, most due to experiments with coolant temperature, but also a failure of the factory thermostat and a Robertshaw Balanced flow design.

I have found that the "cheezwhiz can" Right Stuff instant gasket by Permatex provides the best seal. I would bet it will seal with Right Stuff despite corrosion pits.

There were at least two design changes by Chrysler of their official gasket.

There is an all aluminum water neck available from Carquest to replace the steel factory water neck. It has a wider and flatter flange. Note that the factory steel water neck has two little nibs meant to counter over torquing distorting the original gasket design. This design is not a prize winner.

from

http://www.allpar.com/mopar/performance/manifolds.html

I already have the aluminum water neck. My problem is with powdering of the aluminum, not pitting. Somebody ran straight water for far too long. I've completely cleaned the water jackets of the block and replaced all freeze plugs.

What I still don't have a good handle on is that I've found at least three different casting numbers on intakes found on '98-early 2000s 5.2s and 5.9s and what the differences were.

The EGR has been discussed and is right

92-97 have two temp sensor holes

98-03 have one temp hole.

Some have different vaccume port locations, number and sizes based on the rig it was in, california/federal, year...

You can easily make ANY magnum intake work on your rig with nothing more than a block off plate, a plug (or old temp sensor) or re-routing the vaccume lines. Performance difference will not really be noticable. Find one with good sealing surfaces and make it work. If you just have to have an exact replacement post a pic of the one you have with vaccume locations and I will sell you one cheap, I have tons of those things laying around.

The intake I have is casting # 53031684AC. The "3"s are questionable. If I get back out to PickNPull this Saturday I can get one at half price ($20~), but I've got to pull it. I probably need to go out and get the rest of the wiring we need for my son's latest project (5.0/5sp into his wife's '65 Mustang - against my better judgement, but it's the car she wanted and SHE wants the manual).

I'll see what I find and let you know if I need one.

The casting number means almost nothing, the differences were all in machining unless you have to have EGR.

HotRodDave, is there a good aluminum welder near your shop?

I would be willing to pay in advance to have a beer barrel Magnum intake manifold with EGR custom modified.

I would like to have the intake runners lengthened ( not shortened like many have already done)

My thoughts would be to take 8 lengths of aluminum electrical conduit, bend and then partially flatten them to match the original cast manifold runner cross sections, and weld these curving extensions in so that the new mouths of the runners stretch over to the opposite side. I would hope to add 6.5 inches. I would also hope to weld on an aluminum plate bellypan. I am willing to accept that this would lower the flow rating at 4400 rpm from 180 cfm to maybe 160 cfm.

The iron V10 intake runners and cyl head port lengths add up to 25 inches.
The official Dodge V10 press release claims 25 inches resonates at 1700 rpm and also at approximately 2800. This length also provides 90% of peak torque as low as 1200 rpm.

The Magnum V8 beer barrel runners and cyl head port lengths add up to 18.5 inches.
This shorter length resonates only at 3600 rpm,
midway between the 5.9L V8 torque peak at 3200
and the HP peak at 4000 rpm.
Its really designed for the 3600 rpm torque peak of the smaller 5.2 V8.

I have heard there is a really good guy here in town but have never personally used him. I could go down and talk to him.

I have also heard repeatedly the V8 manifold is tuned to resonate at 1800 RPM and 3600 give or take a little depending on CID.

I also notice with my 5 speed 318 dakota that WOT around 1800-1900 and 3600-3800 it sounds like all heck is breaking loose in the induction. I have a K&N cold air intake and poretd TB and it gets a real destinctive sound at those RPM ranges. May be something else harmonically happening but it corelaets with what I have always heard.

Thanks. I do not have EGR and really don't want a manifold with the passages. It would not be unheard of for a smog tech here in California to see a block-off plate and stop right there...