73 Charger SE 400/727.
Had carb rebuilt, car still ran like crap when I got it back.
Noticed fuel pooling on top of the accelerator pump & spilling onto the manifold, called a mechanic, he said the accelerator pump was probably bad.
Ordered another pump & gasket set, changed it myself because carb guy was on vacation (pump spring looked a little weak but was still working).
Put everything back together, still have a fuel leak, car not running at all.
Had a buddy come over to help me determine where it was coming from, it is definitely coming from these little tubes (on both sides), & it is pouring out from both sides every time the gas pedal is depressed.

What are these tubes & what could be the problem (floats, blockage, or something else)?

I'd check the floats (saturation/setting/no mechanical interference) needle/seat condition and fuel psi. recent prob? If so that'd point more to float/needle/seat rather than the fuel psi being too high all of a sudden. I like to lube the bowl screws as they go into delicate alum as I'm in & out of the carb alot in addition to lubing the bowl gasket with WD40 to keep it from sticking/tearing

The tubes are the air bleeds for the Venturis. Most likely you have a pinhole in one of your floats and carb is flooding. Change your floats. Most auto parts stores that sell Edelbrock parts will have them.

pretty sure those are the high speed bleeds. anyhow, float level or fuel pressure problem. also make sure the carb isn't getting too hot and boiling the fuel.

Got a new set of (brass) floats.
Carb is apart in the garage right now.
Needles are moving freely in their seats.
The new floats have a significantly different bend in them that will make the new ones sit much lower in the bowls when it is reassembled.


I guess it's safe to assume that the float level was the problem?

Abit OT, but what psi do the Edelbrock carbs like? I've got a a Thunder 800 going on a 440

Sumpin ain't right there, can you post pics? when closed (inverted) the tang should be contacting the needle at pretty close to a right (90 deg) angle for ideal leverage and float should be roughtly horizontle but aside from that what is different between the two sets

Old Floats;





New floats (as they came out of the package);

the old float was set to high

the new floats look about right to me.

on eddy carbs you use a 7/16" drill bit to set the float, with it upside down you want the drill bit to just touch the float while resting on the airhorn gasket.

eddy carbs like 4-5 psi and anything over that they tend to flood by pushing fuel past the needle.

pushing fuel out the vents or fuel above airhorn gasket is almost always a high float setting.

the floats are adjustable. the top picture has the float too high.

especially the new float "float drop" pic the float needs to be bent so it is more inline with the lever arm (you have some leeway as you are working with that amount of bend plus the tang that contacts the needle) to end up with the float pretty horizontle & the right height. You might bend the lever arm some & see where this makes you bend the tang so you get the correct float setting along with that tang close to 90 deg. You're measuring toward the end of the top of the float which is now on bottom since it is inverted down to the gasket

adjust by bending float tang. use drill bit as feeler gauge.

6 psi is the max. They work great with 6. The edelbrock fuel pumps make 6.

Done.
No more fuel leaks & car starts now, but it just dies as soon as you take your foot off the gas.
I figured it's a vacuum leak but I can't find one.

take out the carb idle mixture screws and blast a 2 second blast of starting fluid into each carb port. hog out the plastic nozzle on the starting fluid can so you can insert one of those thin red straws so you can get a good blast up in there. I'm assuming the initial timing and the idle speed adj screw are in the ballpark

It appears that I'm down to one problem now - idle.

While it is running in park it is idling anywhere from 1500-2000 RPMs (not exactly sure how accurate the tach is).

As soon as I put it in gear it drops down to 500 RPM & if you don't power brake it then it dies.

can you put it in neutral & unscrew the idle speed screw & see if it will slow to a reasonable speed? and hookup your light & see what you have & want no less than 15 initial & see what you do have/& at what speeds

Park & neutral are the same. Turning down the screw brings the idle down to a reasonable speed, but then it just dies even faster when you try to put it in gear.

I couldn't find the timing mark (after I painted it with whiteout) so I just had to wing it.

Yesterday it was running smooth (in park), today it was backfiring until it warmed up. Once warm it runs smooth up to about 3k RPM, then it starts backfiring out the exhaust again so timing is obviously still off.

It looks like it's about to rain so I can't play with it any more today.

might be more than 1 prob (backfiring). I'd see if you can get a reasonable idle speed in neutral then check/set the initial on 15 on ported (20 if a hot cam) then put it in drive & see if it'll maintain that