Hey Team,
for those of you who have converted, do you just replace the old style dash bulbs with the new ones from SuperBrightLEDS' or do you have to replace the voltage limiter etc?


Is there anything else to converting to LEDs? on the dash?
thanks

OK, I haven't done this swap, but I believe your dash voltage limiter is 5-volts, so if the bulbs are 5V, no problem.

The dash backlighting is controlled by the dimmer switch. The instrument voltage limiter has nothing to do with the lights.

Yep, the voltage limiter has to do with the function of the gauges not the lighting of the gauges.

In my 70RR I changed all my dash lights to the SuperbrightLEDs brand bulbs. There are a few different ones to choose from. Study their different brightness & light out put angles well before you buy.

Off hand I don't remember which ones I used. Do think I used different ones for the blinker indicators & bright lights indicator than for the gauges.

I've bought some blinker indicators before for my "true" pro street Cuda (not sure what brand)that where a bit too bright & had to replace & tone then down, that was more than 10 yrs ago.

I'm a bit picky on dash lighting. I put a lot of time in on superbright's site (a good while back though)studying & comparing to only order 1-2 bulbs. Put it in & see if it's what I'm looking for then order the others of the same if needed. Yes I have a few rejects from doing so. I'm on my 3rd Gen back-up lights on the 70, lol! When I see a better focus or brighter I update till I get to the level of what I want.

In my 70 B-body rallye dash I have a blue tent lighting that I'm fairly happy with. Though it's not perfect, there seems to be a very slight tent difference on 1 bulb, or it's the distance that bulb is from the gauge.

I think there is only 1 bulb in my whole interior that's not LED, & that's the back-up indicator, & that's because it was a sealed unit & that's only on for short spurts. All my exterior lights are LED except the head lights.

Something I've just noticed though about the tail lights. They have a small twitching at low idle (small roller cam, but big alternator) last Saturday of the 4th. But it's the 1st time the cars been out in 32 yrs,...so, I'll worry about that a little later, lol.

I did the dash lights on my 80's Diplomat several years ago, which had a green tint. They were so bright it no longer looked green and was too bright. Mainly, I didn't like how it changed the tint and ended up removing them. I also don't remember which ones, but would also caution you on not going too bright.

I converted almost all my lighting over to LED and I love it. All my interior lighting (minus the dome light) is LED.

I used SuperbrightLEDs and here are some tips:

- match the LED color to the light color (aka use a green LED for blinker, red LED for brake light, etc)
- use the dimmest or second to dimmest LED as the brighter ones are too bright and also may not fit in the sockets
- try to avoid the LED "towers" for interior lights as they are usually too big/long -- these work great in the exterior lights though

To me, this was well worth the money. When I hit my interior lights with the car off, my ammeter needle barely and I mean barely even twitches. It used to dive into discharge with about 10amps or so...

Do they dim with the stock dimmer switch?

The LEDs I put in my 92 D250 dim properly. The LEDs in my Imperial don't dim properly.

I never really dug into it to find out why.

I put them in my Dakota and PT cruisers they dimmed like they should have with the dimmer switch.

Yes they dim almost to the bottom but cut off maybe with 10% left of the switch travel. Not an issue since I don't ever use the dimmer near that low.

Good to know thanks. I only need them for the radio and ash receiver.

Anyone have thoughts on overly dim "light bars" on E Body's.

I have a thought. Buy 2 sets of green LED's, install one set and if they are any good give me the remaining set.

When changing to LED's for tail/brake/turn did you change your flasher and if so what did you use?

Most parts stores carry electronic flashers. Mainly because of the newer cars that come with LEDs.

That's my problem - no dash lights now!
When I work the dimmer switch I get nothing.

I checked the fuse block - no voltage at either the top of the fuse or
the bottom of the fuse - I took the fuse out and it's perfectly intact not blown.

I guess I need a new dimmer switch (sucks!)
anyone else ever have this problem?

check the fuse for running lamps also, it's a circuit downstream from the dimmer switch.

Running lamps? I don't see a fuse for that - I have a 70 Coronet with the non-rallye dash...

Before replacing the dimmer switch try powering the fuse with a jumper wire from another powered fuse source in the fuse block.

Dome Lamp/ Cigar Lighter fuse. It's a constant power and feeds the Parking/ Marker Lamps and Dimmer Switch.