That VB needs the piston installed.

Ok will do.

On to my front pump. I've taken the stator off and I'm ready to remove the old bearing. During removal the inner pump gear jumped out and now I don't know the correct position it needs to go into the outer pump gear, so I'm getting a new set.

I talked to a transmission shop and he recommended a babbitt or a dimpled bronze bushing but I'm not sure which one, I see many TC companies recommended babbitt . I can't find much info on dimpled bronze, why would I use it over babbitt?

I wouldn't replace the rotors if there's no damage.

Babbit bushings are softer so they don't wear the converter snout, bronze bushings wear longer but are harder on converter snouts....dimples act as tiny oil reservoirs but they decrease the actual bearing surface.

Glad you are not in a hurry to get this done. By the time you are finished and with the help of www.moparts.com you should know enough to build another one over a weekend.

That's the goal Pete, plus is about time I started working on my own 727's.

How does my stator bearing look to you guys? There is discoloration but no grooves or scratches I can feel

Sent my front pump and stator out to be rebuilt with new gears and have bushing pressed in. Surprised they didnt replace the stator bushing.. but everything else looked alright. They threw the gasket on when the paint was still curing, so it tore when taking it off. No big deal, I got another gasket from the master rebuild kit.

Put my fiber washer and rings on the pump. Dont know why the rings are white, but they are definitely the rings for the pump.

all ready to install

Dropped the band back in, and also used some studs to keep the gasket and pump aligned as I dropped them in.

front pump in and torqued to 175 in/lbs

Got my accumulator back in, dont know if the spring is necessary though since Im installing a reverse manual valve body.

Most reverse manual VB instructions state to discard the spring. I typically add a 1/2" diameter x 3" steel rod between the bottom of the accumulator bore and the piston. Double check that the valvebody sits down on the case before tightening the bolts. If the piston holds the VB from sitting flush on the case, you would need to shorten the blocker rod a small amount. Discarding the spring and blocking the piston down firms the 1-2 shift.

There is no logical reason to leave the spring out unless you're installing the blocker rod described above.

I just installed the spring. First put the accumulator piston in the bore, then the spring, then the valve body. The spring fit perfectly into vb, and I made sure the spring didn't bind as I installed the vb

made sure parking rod was clipped in before vb install







With the rod and accumulator spring lined up, the vb was tightened up. in a star pattern little by little, to 100 in/lbs.






The plate in the VB blocks off the hole for the center bottom bolt. I thought about drilling it but decided against it and just left the bolt out

Used an in/lb torque wrench to tighten the front and rear bands to 72in/lbs, which felt really tight, but thats what it called for. My Reverse Manual Valve Body said to loosen the front out 2 full turns, and the rear 1/34-2 turns. I ended up setting the both out 2 turns

After the new filter was installed i cleaned my pan and gasket surfaces to like new condition, made sure the pan was flat and installed a cork gasket dry to 95 in/lbs. The book calls for 150 in/lbs but 95 felt plenty tight for a tranny pan.


After that I plugged up any holes and got to work cleaning the case from head to toe. I used Lacquer Thinner to get the surface clean, then primed and painted with high temp engine paint.

Hopefully everything works ok when it goes in the car!

I forgot to add the some photos above. This is when I did the bolt in sprag.

Once the governor is removed, there isn't a need for a perfect seal back there so a missing bolt doesn't matter. The 904 and 727 have different hole locations at that point, thus the elongated hole.

Air check before bolting on the valve body. The pump rings are coated, therefore the silver color. You're doing a great job. Same way I started years ago.

Doug