Hey guys

I'm installing an Aeromotive Phantom fuel pump kit on my '69 Super Bee and not having a very good time.

When I installed the pump assembly into the hole that I cut in my stock tank, the fuel pump wires got trapped between the pump hanger assembly and the tank, and the wires were sliced open and dead shorted to the tank. It took a few hours of diagnosing to figure that one out!

Anyway, I need to shorten the wires that go to the connector (to remove the section with the exposed bare wire) but I cannot for the life of me figure out how to remove the wire and terminals from this type of connector. This is the connector that actually clips into the fuel pump.

Does anybody know the name of this type of connector (so I can look up how to remove it), or does anybody know how to remove the terminals from the connector?

Attached is a picture of the connector that I found on the net.

Thanks for any help!

There should be a locking tab on the metal terminal, it should be accessible from the wire side, you need a very thin, narrow, blade to bend it back.

Thanks! I have tried everything trying to get at a tab in there with various thin pieces of wire, hex keys, and whatnot... there just doesn't seem to be anything that wants to move/release.

I guess I will keep at it.

Thanks again!

Maybe ask Aeromotive themselves ?

When I had setup my fuel system they were really good to deal with I thought.

Why do you need to remove the terminals from the connector to repair the damaged wires? Just cut out the damaged area and splice the wires back together.

As to the terminal release, a shot of the connector from the terminal end would be more beneficial. Round terminals or flat blade type?

You are right about the pic, but I don't have the part currently available for a picture. The terminals inside the connector are the female blade type. I've removed many different types of terminals from connectors, and this one just doesn't want to come apart.

From what I can see of it, the actual terminal looks similar to a relay terminal (from inside a relay connector), where you would push the metal clip down from the connector side to remove the terminal.

I could just cut it out and splice it back together, but I'm not sure what to cover the splice with given that it is submersed in gasoline.

Thanks!

Shrink wrap sleeve.

Is most shrink wrap gas proof/resistant?

I had kind of assumed (and done a quick Google search) and most seemed to think that gas proof shrink wrap is a bit of a specialty product.

I will wander over to the local parts place and see if they have any right now.

Thanks

http://www.mcmaster.com/#heat-shrink-sleeving/=xojtb4

http://www.cableorganizer.com/heat-shrink/heat-shrink-PTFE.htm

Seems to be some fuel resistant stuff there...

I'm sure there are lots of heat shrink options available, but getting it where I live (in a reasonable time) is pretty unlikely...

The parts store I checked had nothing available. I will keep trying to disassemble the connector when I get home tonight... I hate to admit that something so stupid/trivial is giving me so much trouble! I'm at the end of wiring in a sequential EFI and distributorless ignition setup on my 383, so I'm pretty used to wiring at this point!

Thanks!

I had emailed the question to Aeromotive last night, and this is their pretty detailed response, which echos everybody's advice here:

Thanks for your help guys! I did find some heat-shrink butt connectors at the parts store... they dont specifically say that they are fuel resistant, but I'm going to put them in gas over night to see if they are affected.

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You can remove the female spade connector from the plug by using a de-pin tool, which for this plug is a very thin, flat metal probe the is pushed in from the end opposite where the wires go in and at the flat base of the of the connector, opposite the side that has the retaining clip. I would just cut the wire where the insulation was damaged, strip it back and use a butt connector to put it back together. You can get a nice solder/shrink wrap butt connector for this that seems to hold up well in fuel but you need either a hot soldering torch or a good heat gun to use it. Here’s what I’m talking about:

http://www.amazon.com/Electronics-CPGCWT-9002-15-Raychem-Soldergrip-Shrink/dp/B001H1EPLG

Hope that helps, let us know if you need further assistance and thanks for choosing Aeromotive!

Keep the wires from touching. You don't need to actually seal them from the gas.

Bare electrical connections in gas tanks is nothing new and as long as you keep the wires from shorting it does no harm.