I just received a t/a hood from AAR Fiberglass and would like to do a factoryish install. I am trying to get a comprehensive parts list together. Thanks for your comments and help! 440 car if that matters.

1)Hood Pin set-different between fiberglass and Metal hood? best source?

2)Hinges-believe these are the same just different springs

3)hood to cowl seal

4)front of hood molding-different between steel and fiberglass hood?

5)Fratzog emblem, I think?

6)Hood bolts, anything special?

7)washer nozzles

6)What have I missed?

7)the pins hold the front down right? No other form of retention in front?

1 - Yes, you need a kit with the rivets for a 'glass hood.

2 - Yes, lighter springs, hinges are the same.

3 - Same rear seal.

3.5 - Front seal to radiator support has the ends trimmed off.

4 - Same molding, but you use longer studs. R/T Specialties has them.

5 - No emblem.

6. Same as any other 1970 hood.

7 - www.fpap.com has them for sale.

8 - See 3.5 above.

9 - Pins only, no center latch or pop up spring.

Awesome, thanks!

And even though it is new, it will bow. I have a AAR T/A hood on my T/A with teh correct hinge springs and it has bowed. I got it 7 years ago. If you don't want it to bow, don't use the springs.

I used the light weight springs from Year One
They worked out great,,,,
I know some people fab up a "prop rod" that also seems to work well...
I just installed a AAR T/A hood on my 70 Challenger..

Nice, I am excited about mine, I have had a crappy 6pack knockoff hood on my Challenger since I got it. Do you recall how long the hood pin cables are? Where did you get your hardware? Looks like I can find 2-3 things at 3 different places, just wondering if anyplace has everything?

How do you all like the AAR, T/A hoods how do they compare to original. I have an AAR Cuda and I need a new hood and I was considering a Year One wasn't sure about the AAR hoods.

Not having an original I can't compare but it seems like very high quality, ready for paint. I haven't heard of a better source for non-original hoods.

Since its not a show car or matching numbers just a nice driver it dosent matter how well it looks underneath. Glad you and others like there hoods.

Not that I don't believe you Alaska t/a but are we sure about the trim being the same between steel and t/a hood? I just saw in the book "Original Challenger and Barracuda 1970-1974 By Jim Schild" he mentions a special part number 3420000 edge molding for the t/a hood.

P.27
https://books.google.com/books?id=FNfbub...0ch&f=false

The trim itself is the same.

If it came with the longer studs, it did have a different part number, but the fasteners can be changed in minutes.

3420 000 was for the molding package, which did include the fasteners. Fastener number is 6002 320

Steel hood molding package was 3549 699 & the fastener part number is 6002 170.

The only difference is the length of the fasteners & the nuts, the molding itself is the same.

Thanks again, I had bought a molding many years ago and I was hoping it was ok to use.

I should have known better than to question you.

No one is infallible, question any time you have a doubt.

Underside looks good too, here is a pic of it laying in place on my car as delivered.

Go with the Year One hoods, they are made by ASC&P International in Eagle, Pa. you won't find a better repro currently on the market

Being they were used as replacements when the factory ran out of shakers are there any factory 440 emblems that were ever used on the T/A Hood? Which ones work if so.

The shaker hoods were available again about the same time as the T/A hoods came out, the 'replacement' rumor scenario was debunked years ago.

The ASC&P hoods rock. I have one. Looks original.

ONLY problem i have with mine and may redo is the steel mesh (like cowl vents) at the back of the hood rust after time. Personally I'm a HUGE fan of stainless. I'm gonna change mine out to stainless even if I have to get it custom water jet cut to look the same. It get painted over with organisol anyway so know one will know except it wont rust.

If I had it to do over I'd contact Barry (think his name was) direct and ask if he could get SS or if I could supply the pieces before he builds the hood.

If not concerned about original looking the AAR hood looks GREAT.