I used my multimeter to check my fuel sending unit and found that it is in specs. I want to calibrate the sending unit with my fuel gauge to read accurately at "E" and "F"
I have a variable power source. Can somebody please describe how I wire the sending unit to the gauge to fine tune the fuel sender?
When I restored the dash, I disabled the mechanical voltage limiter and installed a transistor unit.
Thanks in Advance

12V input to VL. ~5V out from VL to one gauge terminal. other gauge terminal goes out/rearward to tank sending unit. sending unit is grounded. float rises=less resistance=more current flowing & gauge up front moves over toward F. Not being patronizing just a BTT for ya

I would just make sure when the float 90% up that the gauge is right at the F.
Same for empty. The trick will be when you install it with fuel in the tank.

I was able to test my original sending unit and a repro that was supposedly manufactured by the original supplier. The original sender needed only minor tweeking to set endpoints. The repro unit did not register in a linear fashion therefore I won't be using it. I guess it's just another poorly manufactured waste of money.

I ain't never seen any aftermarket product that has even come close to the high percentage of out of the box inaccurate reading units like sending units. If I had my druthers I'd want it to read E when I have five miles left in the tank. I got around this by keeping my functioning 5/16 sender & soldering in a bung in my new Frankie Mitchell (God rest his soul) spectra gas tank (from Canada iirc)

I had same issue trying to read unit with an Ohm meter. Installed and it only goes to 3/4 when tank is full. Spends a lot of time around the 1/4 tank mark on gauge. I also built an electronic limiter, puts out constant 4.9 volts. How were you "tweaking" the sending unit? This is a made by orig mfg, not the Chinese version. My original was junk

I agree, these are terrible!