having a hard time finding a source on the pilot bearing for this combo...

440 T56 Magnum LS1 road coarse transmission and im using the quick time RM-6077 bellhousing

Are you using a T56 from behind an LSI or do you have the aftermarket T56 Magnum that is Chevy based?

I'd ask the outfit you purchased the T56 Magnum from, but I thought all of the T56 Magnums were Chevy based input shafts.

Not 100 % but this may be it, you can measure the block and trans shaft and call American power train, they have a lot of sizes...

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/awr-tuet11009
This Trans

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/qti-rm-6077
This Bellhousing

The above pilot is for a dodge Dakota, it fits into the 440 crank but the inner bearing diameter is too large

I need the above style with a .600 inner diameter

Sounds like the first thing you need to do now is do some measuring with a mic, both on the end of the 440 crank as well as the input shaft of the T56 Magnum. You've got to mic the diameter that you have room for on the end of the 440 crank you're using. The input shaft to the T56 Magnum is a Chevy size as purchased, so you're going to have to use one of those pilot bearings, or else you're going to have to machine the end of the T56 Magnum input shaft to whatever pilot bearing you want to use. I think what you're running into is that your end of the crank size is too small or not bored in far enough for this setup to work as bought. But you're going to have to measure this stuff yourself in order to know -- there's no other way anyone here can give you a part number and everything will magically work and clearance right out.

Whatever you do, keep the grinder and sawzall away from the end of the input shaft on the T56 Magnum. If you go that route of machining this down, do yourself a huge favor and have someone that knows what they're doing (it might be you, I'm just not assuming anything.....) take the input shaft out of the T56 Magnum case so it can be machined properly. You can also machine the end of the 440 crank, but this needs to be out of the block to do and mounted in a lathe too, so it's not a simple deal either way you do it if you want to do this right. Either way, it sounds like you need to measure for clearance both in and out as well as diameter sizes to get this to work correctly for your situation.

Interesting....

So lets say between machining the crank/tranny input shaft to make this work, Would the other hurdle be to find a clutch disc that fits??

In other words would a disc designed for a chevy input shaft fit in the mopar bellhousing, pressure plate, flywheel assembly??

Just curious....

Because of all of the variables involved, I think it would be best to get help from a custom clutch guy that the racers use. I know there's a quality guy that has been listed on here before, but for the life of me I cannot find his name now. These swaps aren't for the faint of heart I believe.

I think that is correct though. You need to use some sort of Chevy based clutch disk, but I'm not so sure about the pressure plate and how it all hooks together with the flywheel. The custom clutch setup guy would know the answer to all of these questions -- sorry I cannot remember his name, maybe someone here will?

It's actually pretty simple. The pressure plate has to fit the flywheel. The clutch disk has to fit the transmission input shaft. The clutch disk needs to be the same diameter or smaller than the pressure plate diameter.

The throwout bearing either has to fit the sleeve around the input shaft, or else it's a hydraulic one-piece that bolts to the front of the transmission. You need to know if the throwout bearing is large enough diameter to catch the fingers on the pressure plate. Most are. There is also some variation in length of the throwout bearing carrier or holder.

Here's an example....I collect cheap parts. The goal was new clutch in my '64Dog D100. Stock clutch was an 11" Borg & Beck. Stock input shaft was 10 spline 1 1/8". I determined that the Borg & Beck and the diaphragm type used the same bolt pattern, and that an 11" OR a 12" pressure plate used the same holes on the flywheel. After searching for a while I bought a 12" Borg & Beck pressure plate brand new for a few dollars. I then bought an 11.5" clutch disk that had 10 x 1 1/8" splines. I bought a new bearing for my throwout after making sure the old one would cover all the ends of the lever tips. No problem. Drive off the old bearing and install new one.

I needed a pilot bearing because my crank was from an automatic transmission car, '86 Fifth Avenue. I found the late '90s Ram pilot bearing on Rockauto, although every part store in town had one as well. That's the one that drives into the torque converter ring. I test fit and there was a deep enough hole in the end of the crank that it'd all bolt together without any cutting or drilling. So I put it together. Done.

On my '77ford F150 I had bought a 12" set (barely used)because my truck had the 400 engine, the 12" was standard on it. Much to my surprise the truck had been rebuilt with a 400 crank but was originally a 351M...that had an 11" clutch. I didn't have an 11" disk, so I took the flywheel and pressure plate to a machine shop and for $35 they drilled new holes for the 12" pressure plate. End of story.

In your situation, you are having trouble finding a pilot bearing that fits inside the torque converter ring, but has the right ID for the transmission input shaft. So here's what you do...
Find a roller pilot bearing for your transmission input shaft. Get a pilot bearing for the Mopar engine like I used, the '90s Ram pickup. It is a small bearing inside a large disk that serves as a spacer. Have a machine shop make a spacer to fit inside the TC ring and have the pilot bearing be a press fit into the spacer. The Ram pilot bearing may be useful as it is the right OD, it illustrates the remedy, and it may be usable in fabricating the spacer. But at the very least it'll point the machinist in the right direction.

More Specifically, you buy the National FC69007 that fits your crankshaft. Then you buy either the National 57080 and bore the 69007 out to press fit the smaller bearing into it, or else you buy the SKF 6302VSP43 and bore the 69007 out to fit it. You are basically creating a spacer for the correct bearing for your transmission input shaft.

R.

I did a different swap but was in the same spot as you. I had a pilot bearing that fit the trans but was too small for the hole in the back of the crank on my 99 dodge 5.2 engine. I took both pilot bearings to the machine shop and they used the lathe to make me a spacer. Done deal.

thanks guys

I have this conversion bearing. $59.00 plus shipping.

Photo as soon as I get to the shop.