Heres my dilemma. Im using the 1.6 Cranes due to me running a SB with stock heads and poor rocker geometry and to get a little more lift on my cam. I had a adjuster break and heres my question.....Just buy a new adjuster or switch over to the 1.5 HS rockers????

Thanks!!!!!

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/crn-99802-16/overview/make/dodge

Did it break while you were adjusting it or ?

Keep the 1.6,s buy a new adjuster. Also, since you broke a adjuster, sounds like your pushrods are to short.

If you broke one off it is probally time to replace them all now instead of waiting for the others to start breaking one at a time

I'll agree that you have poor geometry, and the Harlands will make it worse. You likely broke the adjuster because the valvetrain is getting pounded. Keep the Cranes, get the geometry fixed, and you shouldn't be breaking any more adjusters.

That's good advice, as is Br3,s.

If the one adjuster broke the others aren't far behind because of the same geometry problems. Too short of pushrods, IMO, or ETC.

OK....The Cranes are BRAND NEW along with my motor. Only had some start up times and maybe a few miles on it and it did not break on start up. Rick (AARLUCAS)set them up for me after buying BRAND NEW Manton pushrods. We also put lash caps on because we didn't like the way the rollers sit on the valve. Rick is in NOOOOOOOO WAY at fault with what happened, he has been AWESOME!!!!!!!

How much are good adjusters??? Should I get them thru Crane???

Thanks again for the help!!!!!

"We also put lash caps on because we didn't like the way the rollers sit on the valve."

Oh boy, here we go again. How many WOT runs did you make, and how high did you twist it?

If you haven't done so, please read the tech articles on my website. I see way too many Mopar valvetrain issues, and it doesn't need to be.

A lash cap is a piss poor way to correct geometry. You have to RAISE and MOVE the shaft towards the intake manifoild if the valves are too long, or LOWER and MOVE the shafts closer to the springs if the valves are too short.

Take the lash capss off, correct the geometry and be done with it.

Smith Bros. make great adjusters.

nobody ever looks at push rod/rocker adjuster geometry. everybody is stuck in the old "2-3 threads" showing b.s.

Big difference between breaking an adjuster by over tightening it and breaking an adjuster because the pushrod was too short.

Also, if you look at the broken adjuster you might be able to figure out why it broke.

If the pushrods are way too short then there will be a lot of side loading on the adjuster and they'll break. Over tightening the adjuster will break it and there have been problems in the industry with batches of adjusters that were heat treated wrong.

Nobody? Everybody?

yes.

Ok, lol. I am well aware of the effects of pushrod geometry. The question is, are the Mopar rocker manufacturers? I have yet to see one that has the proper design on the adjuster side of the rocker. And, before anyone trots out their favorite brand, that includes every "single shaft" system from ProForm, to T&D. Pushrod length plays a part, but the rest is in the rocker design. They're a bit difficult to change.

another vote for Smith Bros.

Smith Bros use to be five miles from me when they where here in Bend, there in Redmond ,OR now, 20 miles away I like and use the Manton heat treated adjusters for race motors that will see a lot of spring pressure and RPM Same thing on pushrods, Manton series 3 for high RPM and spring pressures I've burnt up some of Mantons pushrod tips do to a lack of oil, no failures with them though, I can't say the same thing about any other brand of pushrods or adjusters I've used The choice is yours, buy the good stuff once or buy less than the best and have it fail at the worst posiible time

Are the Cranes your using thier extruded aluminum or the ductile iron 1.6? If the ductile iron RAS may be able to help you get them fixed