About ready to get the 26" 3 row champion radiator for my 440.

If I get the fans from champion, 2 12" fans with the fan shroud adds about $120 and pulls an advertised 2000cfm. But, 1 pusher 16" fan and 1 puller 16" fan will move an advertised 3800cfm and costs about $100. Maybe just one 16" would do the job??

Never used electric fans so not sure what I need. Temps up here in WA rarely go over 100, I dont remember it going past the 90's for a long time.

For you guys using champion radiators on the street, what electric fan setup worked best for you?

Hello Adam, I ain't never used an electric setup but what I've read just me I would not want one (or two). I would suggest a fixed 7 blader properly spaced into a shroud with a 7 blade pump with an anticav plate with proper pulley ratio (eng RPM range has a bearing on that). Since you ain't gettin any love on this Q here is a BTT for ya. EDIT I think that is 8 blades on the pump

I've got the Champion 26" 3-core cooling my 360 with dual electric fans. The motor has a 160 degree stat in it and if I leave the fans on high it'll take it right down to 160 on a 90 degree day. It really blew me away at how well it works. Set the controller at 180 and forget about it.

I think most of the negative feelings people have against electrics are because of the aftermarket offerings. From my experience most of them are complete crap. If you're going to go electric then an OEM fan is the way to go. The one I have is out of a late 90's Ford Contour with a V6. I followed the complete write-up another member here did on the swap. I'll have to dig for the post though.

If you have the room you want puller fans. They are more efficient than pushers.

Electric fans must pull amperage to move air. Never believe the cfm ratings. There is no industry standard. They can run the fan in an empty room and say it moves eleventy billion cfm. When you take it home and put it behind a radiator the fan barely makes a breeze.
If the motor isn't drawing amps it isn't making power. No power means no air flow through a radiator.
Those AutoZone fans are crap. I've played with dozens of them over the years. None of them have been worth the money.
Pusher fans are crap. They make very little difference on cars. I ran a 16" pusher for a short time. If it was on when the car was moving the engine temp would rise. The fan was blocking air flow above 35 mph.

If you gotta go electric, consider SPAL.

http://www.70duster440.com/cooling.html

I read your write up. If space wouldnt of been an issue, would you have gone with single 16" puller? or dual 12" pullers??

Robert I got a Flow Kooler high flow water pump. http://www.flowkoolerwaterpumps.com/store/Water-Pumps-MOPAR-CID:-440/7.2L/c21_37_204/p97/Water-Pump-1679-Chrysler,-Dodge,-Plymouth,-Desoto%3Cbr%3E%281958-78%29/product_info.html

I like the idea of the fans being controlled by a thermostat. Plus, the cost of radiator shroud for a 26" mopar radiator for my 71 is over $100, plus the cost of fan and clutch, when an electric fan setup is about $100 to $150, plus the cost of a relay. A little bit more for electric setup, which I think is more efficient.

I dont think electric fans save much hp (if any) when running full speed vs a mechanical fan running full speed, but being thermastat controlled I believe the are more efficient. I know there are fan clutches that have the bi-metal thermo coil on the front to sense radiator heat, but is that really as efficient as a thermostat immersed in coolant? I dont think so.

Plus, I've got an alternator that can handle the draw, and lots of wire in my garage. Electric is the way I want to go

Would run a mechanical if I could. But between 1 or 2 fans, I'm not sure without going back and comparing specs. In some cases a single will out-perform two smaller fans. A single fan won't have the same current draw as two either. I'm pretty confident the 16" SPAL moves more air than a 17" HD Derale I tried once before.

I also think the two row aluminum out-cooled the three row copper/brass I had before - so you may be suprised at what you can get away with. Controlling air flow through the core with seals, shrouds, etc. is important and worthwhile.

the one thing I noticed about the rad you went with was needed to modify your rad support to make it fit. Does summit sell this 2 core radiator in a mopar specific application (mounting tabs line up with existing factory bolt holes)?

No, they're sold as a "universal" fit. You have to devise your own mounting method. With the exception of maybe one or two bolt holes, I had no mods to the core support.

I also noticed that the tubes in the 2 row summit rad are 1" thick, while the champion has 3 rows with .62" thick so overall does 2 rows of larger tubes cool better than 3 rows of smaller tubes?

Adam holler how it turns out. I have never went with electric but if it works good I might try it in the future. An above post reminded me that I had a "direct fit" 2 core Champion rad off of eBay in my 65 dart for $189 to my door a pretty good price & I had to redrill (1) hole in the DR side flat side flat bracket for a dead on fit. cooled fine but a DD 318 would not test it in that area

You'll find the theory behind row count vs tube size in a number of places. Here's one example (scroll down page):

http://www.onallcylinders.com/2012/12/13/how-to-choose-an-aftermarket-radiator/

check how deep the electric fans are, I did not have much room and used the Ford Contour electric fans/shroud. The dual fan and shroud setup is about $100 from Rock Auto. Not the most powerful fans, but the assembly is fairly slim which I needed for clearance to the front of the engine running the Billet Specialities belt drive system.

I have a 300 C fan mounted to the three row champion in my 69 Bee. It keeps the 512 cool even with the AC going setting in traffic. You will need to fab up some mounts and do some minor trimming on the fan shroud to make it fit. I paid $90 for mine on EBay. I also recommend you use relays in conjunction with any fan you decide to use.
http://www.go-parts.com/0507-chrysler-300-300c-radiator-cooling-fan-assembly-p-10849.html

Hit the junkyard and get a 90's Ford Taurus 3.8 V6 electric fan. Cheap, reliable and high cfm rating. I like to use the SPAL PWM fan controller. I have used this combo on many cars with good results.

2

16" fan has an area of 201 square inches

2 12" fans have an area of 223 square inches

I had one of those, but didn't care for the lack of coverage on a 26" radiator. Attached is the Contour fan on my 26" Champion.