On my 440 Im starting with aluminum eddy rpm heads and aluminum rpm intake. I want to try some single plane manifolds later. Since I know I'll most likely be switching out the intake, multiple times possibly, whats the best way to efficiently seal the valley but not create a lot of work for myself when it comes time to swap intakes?

Right now I have the felpro valley pan with 4 gaskets, uninstalled. I dont want to use any hardening RTV, but I despise vacuum and oil leaks, am I asking for trouble installing the gaskets dry? I have hylomar, but I've found it not so great to clean up. Whats my options here? I'm willing to purchase a different vally pan if it suits my needs better.

#1 you want the heads and or intake milled & the right thickness of paper gaskets (if you use em & I do), those three things so that the ports and therefore the bolt holes are aligned & that those surfaces are checked/milled flat. I'm assuming you are good there. Ma used no paper so you can get by without em & many do. If I was to do alot of intake switching (I cant see that myself) I would usem (paper) dry then new paper ones with each change

Get the Fel Pro 1215 valley pan,I think that is the proper part number, it might be the 1214 # not sure which is the low deck and which one is the high deck As far as a gasket sealer try Hylomar on both sides of the gaskets and heads and intake manifold Set the intake manifold on the heads with no gasket or valley pan and measure with a feeler gauge on all four corners, top and bottom and write those numbers down, see if it is wider at the bottom or top and have the manifold cut so it is square and .001 to no more than .003 wider at the top that the bottom so the inatke will squeeze the pan and gasket firmly aginst the heads at the bottom to keep oil from sucking up into the manifold

I have the 1215 felpro set.

You can cement the gaskets to both sides of the valley pan, THEN spray PAM cooking spray on the gaskets to keep them from sticking.

What's wrong with just using the original type valley pan? If you think your going to get a better seal using gaskets on each side you'll be wrong. By stacking gaskets [ one one each side of the valley pan gasket ] you'll never even get the intake bolts in. The only reason to use multiple gaskets is when your heads and block have been milled a lot. You can reuse your stock type valley pan gasket multiple times by using a gasket sealer like spray on copper coat and a dab of blue silicone sealant in each corner.

I believe the paper gaskets came out from Ma Mopar as a warranty fix for leaking factory 6-pack aluminum intakes back in the day. I have never had a problem sealing a cast iron intake which will crush the steel gasket. Aluminum intakes just don't seem to compress the steel gasket as well. I believe Superformance makes some very thin facing gaskets, much thinner than the overly thick Fel-Pros. Follow Cabs advice and figure out the clearances. I have had success using one gasket between the intake and the steel gasket when clearance was limited. Good Luck!

There's nothing wrong with it, I've just read posts from guys here that said the stock bath tub pan is meant for iran heads with iron intake, and that there is problems when using aftermarket aluminum heads or intake or both

I wonder if remflex makes intake gaskets, I dont see why their theory of crush gasket wouldnt also apply to intakes.

If I tried this method Would vasoline work too? or even some thick assembly lube?

I cleaned all mating surfaces and layed the intake directly on the heads. One side will lay perfectly flat, and the other side has .012 to .015 gap all the way across the mating surface.