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Part of the problem is electrolysis - the bolts are steel and the plate is aluminum so the bolts are seized to the plate. Heat is the answer ... if you have oxy/acetylene, use a small flame and heat the bolt head. Let it cool a minute or two then it should break loose.

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It wouldn't suprise me that the Mopar factory used red locktite on those allen head tapered bolts that hold the plate on I have ruin some cheaper allen wrenches trying to remove those bolts in the past Use some heat on the tranny lugs that those bolts go into first and then try loosening them up Let us know what you do

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The factory bolts that I saw years ago actually did have a type of loctite of sorts on them
They had what can best be described ad a small hole drilled in the side of the threads that had some sort of nylon thread locker in it.
I'm sure it was there to help keep the flat socket head bolt from loosening up.



As far as getting it to loosen up what I've had decent luck with is taking a hammer and round punch and smacking the head of the bolt straight in. Essentially shocking it to help break it loose.

Heat and penetrating oil help too.

If all else fails as others have said since you have a new one if you destroy the old one getting it out it's no big deal.
The aluminum shifter bracket is softer than the cast iron trans case.
Once the bracket is gone the bolts should spin out relatively easy.

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Quote:

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It wouldn't suprise me that the Mopar factory used red locktite on those allen head tapered bolts that hold the plate on I have ruin some cheaper allen wrenches trying to remove those bolts in the past Use some heat on the tranny lugs that those bolts go into first and then try loosening them up Let us know what you do

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The factory bolts that I saw years ago actually did have a type of loctite of sorts on them
They had what can best be described ad a small hole drilled in the side of the threads that had some sort of nylon thread locker in it.
I'm sure it was there to help keep the flat socket head bolt from loosening up.



As far as getting it to loosen up what I've had decent luck with is taking a hammer and round punch and smacking the head of the bolt straight in. Essentially shocking it to help break it loose.

Heat and penetrating oil help too.

If all else fails as others have said since you have a new one if you destroy the old one getting it out it's no big deal.
The aluminum shifter bracket is softer than the cast iron trans case.
Once the bracket is gone the bolts should spin out relatively easy.

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The bolts are done for. No chance of using a proper tool to take them out. I tried the 3/8" drive allen wrenches and they just spun. Someone has already tried this sometime in the last 45 years.

So, I compared the parts that came with the new shifter. A similar plate and thin spacer that was very small.

When you stack them side by side, they end up being the same thickness as the one on the car already. Instead of going backwards, I decided to try bolting it all up with the existing plate and see if it lined up.

It did. I was able to get all the rods on and so far, it looks like it will work. I really dodged a bullet, but there is always the chance that something else will be wrong and it will come out anyway.