There are a couple of these Neons down here ... with a 5 speed .... I was thimking about picking up one just to set it aside ...... which years had the NON interference engines ?

I might be wrong but the number is 0. Thats why the timing belt service is so important. Ive heard some got off lucky damage wise but im not lucky so Id not know.

The book says change at 105,000, but I knew a guy that went 170,00 when it broke, so I'd say there is a safety margin built in. It drives the water pump, so I wouldn't go much father than what the book says.

Im at 106k and the most are highway miles the car has seen -24 (yes -24)as well as 112 above so I know I need to do it as iirc the book does say the miles as posted and I think it gives a time span as well and im past that.

I hate to wrench on newer stuff but did find a good tech vid on u tube thats going to make it alot easier for me its just I got to accept it needs done and do it.

If it would break and eat the head id almost be like, screw it and get a new car. This one has made it through 2 deer strikes without being totaled, actually after so many miles its just a neon and both deer hits I made money off, last one was at 86k and the didnt total it,but its had both front fenders,hood,front bumper cover and both drivers side doors replaced. TCI Global oem paint and its still not a bad looking car.

Usually if the a belt breaks, it just get a few valves, but that is according to how fast the motor is spinning. But if you are really cooking, it could break a valve. I've looked at some of the brand X cars, and actually a Neon is easer to do than them. I was looking a a tyota the other day, and a Neon is built way stronger than them.

We used to buy Neons that had bad timing belts or popped head gaskets. Probably done nearly 100 of them over the years. They sometimes bend the intake valves. Exhausts don't quite touch. Haven't seen any break a valve off. Intake valves are about $8 a piece, so not big deal. Will put a little shiny spot on the piston is about it.

The DOHCs belt doesn't live quite as long as the SOHCs. I guess because they make a couple more bends every revolution.

And I have seen the bearings in the water pump go bad and take the belt out as often as the belt itself go bad. So ALWAYS change the water pump when changing the belt. Be sure to buy the Gates belt. It is only $10 more than the house brands, but is a better belt for the long haul.

With a couple of tricks, changing the timing belt isn't bad at all. Heck, even if the belt slips and dings the valves, it just a valve job. No biggie.

I ran an '03 5 speed gen II (and still run a '98 gen I). Decent car, did the front bushings around 60k. Occasional rough idle a couple times was fixed with carb cleaner around the idle air valve in the manifold. Otherwise basic maintenance. Its life ended when my daughter got hit near head on. Nobody hurt and the Neon started and drove to the side... with its engine about 3 inches right of where the factory put it. Totaled.

In most cases you will hear the belt slapping / rattling before it breaks (I said Most times )

Either way they are 3 hour job tops.

My water pump locked up and destroyed the timing belt right at 106k. Bent every valve. Broke the plastic timing belt cover too. Put a waterpump in it when u have it apart.

my 95 got over 400k miles, original clutch. no brainer cheap car and to fix. if thats what you like. to me a honda is a glorified neon.
when inventory on neons run out. the darts will be next. btw neons replaced the darts.

Got an 03 and an 05 and had about a dozen 1st gens. The 03 and 05's are autos, wish mine, the 05, was a stick. Has the usual rough idle and replaced the lca's, easy job. Put front wheel bearings and hubs in this past year, they make a tool so you don't have to pull the struts and spindles. I even have a spare 03 motor I'll swap the high mileage 05 with this summer. My 05 has a lot of squeaks and rattles but it was a city car.
Oh yeah, only paid $1200. for the 05 SXT loaded and $1800. for the 03 SE and that was a couple years ago.

The 2005.

The 02 on up models with the 4 spd auto have radiator issues. They crack internally mixing the tranny fluid with the engine coolant. Most have been replaced by now but you don't know how much damage was done to the transmission. Other than that they are great cars. They should have never stopped building them.

What are the trans OD #s ? ... stick vs auto ?

Well Knock on wood on the rad. part I know its common and the first dear strike required me to straighten the front ? core support area and I noticed the ecm? is in a not so good spot if you have a front end crash. But never had to remove the rad.

I keep the motor oil and trans serviced on a regular basis, I hate to say ive never changed the anti-freeze plugs or wires and only replaced the rear shoes as they got squeaky and had near the same thickness of the new ones.

I think the master cylinder is getting soft.

Its time to spend a weekend doing the things I need to do and Im looking forward to another 30-50k out of it.

Id like to find a clean bodied early door and make a tune frame racer out of it but it seems if not wrecked these things get run until they are dead.