So I got myself a nice Magnum 5.2L from a 96 Grand Cherokee to swap into my 67 wagon. I haven't been able to find out if I'll be able to retain the serpentine setup or not. I have a newer-style aluminum LA-style timing cover and water pump to retain my v-belt setup if I need to, but I'd rather keep the serp setup.

Here's where search is failing me:
• Can I use the stock Magnum alternator so long as I run another charge wire to keep from cooking the ammeter? What do I need to do about the voltage regulator? I haven't done any of the usual alternator rewiring options of note on my car yet.

• Can you hook up a 67 steering box to the 96 PS pump? I've read reports of some people hooking their hoses right up, but those are often later-model trucks, not 60s/70s passenger vehicles. Again this is off of a JGC, not a Dakota or Ram, if that makes a difference.

Bonus: should I bother cracking the heads off to switch to thinner .028 head gaskets? The engine is going into the car as-is aside from converting to carb via a Crosswinds or Eddy RPM, no cam regrind or anything yet.

so I kept the mag stuff. I dropped a 2000 into a 65 coronet.

I took the original lines in from the mag and coronet and had them splice the ends on new hoses for the ps and ac. cost 50bucks.

you might need the van pump bracket to clear the battery tray. otherwise the cap to fill will be under it.

forgot. I wired the solid state single wire vr to the mag alt. I did bypass the amp meter. I have pulled 100amps out and didn't fry anything.

Cool, there is a hydraulic supplier near me that could do that.

Not sure what you mean by this:
"solid state single wire vr to the mag alt."

Where is the single wire voltage regulator coming from? Is this something you're using from the donor vehicle? I don't have the entire Jeep this motor came from, just the motor and the wiring harnesses that were left on it. I'm using a standard parts store two-terminal replacement VR for a 67 right now.

I used the 65 vr, which is the single field vr,but the solid state replacement,not the points one.
ground one of the alt fields,or use the newer two field if you like.

The PS hose bolts on if you switch the little fitting out in the back if you have the old pump that looks like the new pump, dont know about the old pump that looks like a small juice can for a neck.

Run a fat single wire from the hot terminal on the alt straight to the batt.

If you have two field wires now just put one on each field on the new alt. If you have one hook it up and ground the other.

If you pull the heads you WILL see cracks then you will want to replace the heads... might just want to keep them on there

I am not responsible for the wiring they did in that drivers side fender, I just did the engine. The battery was in there with the ram PS bracket but just barely and only after a small trim on the battery tray.

The alt/ac bracket gets the AC part trimmed off, cut it off with a hacksaw and grind it flush and it looks just like the rare factory non-AC bracket.

I'm pretty sure I have a usual Chrysler-type pump. Just a straight-upright filler neck and a round body, not the tapered neck the Saginaws have. If I just have to transfer fittings that'd be rad.

And yeah you are right about the cracks... I'm not worried about them. I put Comp 901-16 springs on my original heads 3 years ago and stopped using lead additive replacement around 2 years ago and the car arguably runs better than ever (ignoring oil/coolant loss ;P). Regardless I'll probably leave HGs until I stumble upon a deal for the newer aftermarket castings.

JGC motors apparently have slightly tighter packaging than Ram motors by the looks of it - pretty much everything is within the span of the heads. Maybe I won't need to mess with anything for that:

The PS pump looks closer, everything else is the same.

The pump you have is probably different, the tapered one works real easy though.

When my motor was installed he swapped in a van power steering bracket and that shifted the resevior towards the center of the car and out from under the battery tray.

Is there some way of determining if my existing pump's fittings will swap to the Jeep motor's pump without actually pulling the fittings out? I'm still using the car regularly while I get the motor ready on a stand.

order another set of hoses?