OK,... I'm now in the Legion of "I'm screwed" rb motor Guys. Confirmed that My 500" block has a crack between cylinder and wall. Fills the pan with water. Great, explains the loss of performance and consistency :-(. Darn,... so here are the questions: How much and how long (months, years, lifetimes?) for a KB block Wedge configuration? Are World Blocks and Bill Mitchell and Indy aluminum big blocks all the same? I know the knock on 'Indy, Mitchell,and World" is the quality, is that still a problem where the machine shop has to clean up more than expected? If I put a 555" BB Chevy in My Duster I know I'll be an 'outcast' to all mopar Pals :-(. Really don't want too but it is starting to make more sense. Put this up as temporary brain damage to the condition of no reasonable aftermarket blocks no-where, no-how. Open to recommendations besides self inflicted injury :-). I think I've done that already.

I can not feel your pain, but I do sympathize.
As cheap as Chevy stuff is I have actually contemplated the chevy swap also. No I have not nor will I, but I get it.

The way I see it. You can:

#1 Put another stock block in it

#2 Order a KB

Life is too short to drive a Chevy

Depends on where you fall in the stack of orders. If you are lucky and near the end it may only be a few months. If you are one of the first the time will be longer, potentially significantly longer.

AS for the other two blocks you mention. I am not a huge fan of the Indy piece, many reasons but plenty of people are using them. I have done a couple of World blocks, and have one going now and so far so goos. No real complaints.

IMO the idea of a stock block is a decent one if you want to keep racing, we are doing that in the Dragster. Order one from them the wait is worth it. BTW you looking to have an engine done I know a guy

I have 3 Mopar OEM 400 blocks in stock That would involve several part changes, intake, pushrods, rods maybe depending on thier length distributor if you don't want to use a distributor spacer, cut the crank mains down and possibly the counterweights and maybe some other parts that are not coming to my mind right now. That does eliminate the main webbing problem, if you put some decent main caps on it you should be able to race for long time with no worrys

I have or had BCR(??) Aluminum Main Bearing Caps on the stock block. I think that extended the time to failure as I now believe the webs are going to crack regardless from beating on Them with racing. I am a little better for calling both Mopar Performance and KB for price and delivery. A little skeptical for KB on wait based on reports on this bulletin board but I do feel better based on something of availability. I really just want to load in My existing hardware for rotating assy, cam, heads,... go racing. Don't want to go low deck. New block (final honed bore and lifter bushings), new roller rockers,.. Let's Go!! Time is the more the concern than money right now, that points in the direction of IndyMax but maybe I'll come to My senses and wait out the KB Delivery saga/adventure. Might get a new cam too? And valve springs ..... for more rpm .. mph

What about the Koffel's KP 440 blocks? A friend of mine was just telling me about them. Looks like there is a special running on them at the moment ($3895.00). Don't know much about them though. Maybe someone could chime in. Good luck!

Thank You,.. I'll call. I was given a lead time of 18 weeks from one aluminum block supplier .. no abreviations .... Is that realistic or should it be doubled based on some way long thread I remember from last year?

As I pointed out above it depends on where you fall into the order cycle, unfortunately you have no way of knowing that. The do not cast blocks til there is a minimum number of orders met.

As for Koleno those are cast iron blocks and from what I have been told will only be sold if they do the build.

FWIW the KB price does include head and main studs, unlike the rest. IMO they are worth waiting for as long as you 1, understand the promise date will be further out most likely than told and 2, are ok with putting half down to start the process.

Thanks Al, the money is available but I am fretting about the time however. I think I can live with the delay unless the time interval is 2X or 3X the stated time. I'll flop around in bed trying to decide what I want to do . Maybe I'll press Mr. Schwarz on where things stand for an 'order cycle'. I've already heard the comments about foundry and this and that and .....

Where is it cracked? In the mains or just a cylinder? If it's a cylinder why not sleeve it? Especially if it already has a far amount of work in it. I agree a better block is the ultimate solution. It all depends on power level. There are way more motors running uncracked with stock blocks than ones that have broke.
Doug

mains area, not in the cylinder wall. I'm familiar with sleeving but a cracked web is a different problem.

Darn me for forgetting his name right now, but I will get it soon for you if you need it. He lives in Clarksville Tn. He calls every once in a while. He has 3 built short blocks for a very good price. These are world and mp blocks. You want me to find his name? He lists his stuff here for sale and is a good trusting member. Atleast you would be up n ready, but not aluminum.

Sorry about my memory loss, im just getting over a stroke and a bunch of mini's so im not all up on par right now.

Daytona540 is his member name. first page on last months parts forsale for a contact info on him. Hope it helps I got his name and number somewhere though. It just slips my mind right now

When I bought my World block 2 years ago... I was lucky and found someone that had it in stock..

But if I was to do it all over again today.. I'd buy a motor already built.. prefer a short block, but would look for the best value out there