comp cam pro magnum or harland sharp rockers
#1774368
03/07/15 09:59 PM
03/07/15 09:59 PM
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,230 restos just aren't my thing
gtsuperbee
OP
top fuel
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OP
top fuel
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,230
restos just aren't my thing
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Looking for opinions on the harland sharp 1.5 rockers or the comp cam 1.5 pro magnums. Is one better than the other and why? They will be installed on an eddy headed big block. Thx in advance btw, I know the pro magnums need matching push rods.
Restoring a car to look "only" as good as the factory made it is like getting a boob job for your wife and having the doctor make them two different sizes to seem more natural
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Re: comp cam pro magnum or harland sharp rockers
[Re: gtsuperbee]
#1774369
03/07/15 10:38 PM
03/07/15 10:38 PM
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Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 289 Lowes
steve660
enthusiast
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enthusiast
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 289
Lowes
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Depends a lot on how much spring pressure your running. Ive ran 525ish open pressure with Comps and no problems. I don't think aluminum rockers are best for high spring pressure anyway. Ive had a set of Crane Gold rockers break with hi spring pressure. Yes, you will need diff pushrods with Comp Pro Magnums, and they get direct oiling from the adjusters, which I think is a better setup. With the Harland Sharps if your off more than ~.030 you can burn up the pushrods. Who knows, you may need diff pushrods with the Harland Sharps too.
Last edited by steve660; 03/08/15 01:36 AM.
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Re: comp cam pro magnum or harland sharp rockers
[Re: B3RE]
#1774372
03/08/15 01:44 AM
03/08/15 01:44 AM
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Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 3,082 St. Paul , Mn.
tubtar
master
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master
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 3,082
St. Paul , Mn.
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Looking for opinions on the harland sharp 1.5 rockers or the comp cam 1.5 pro magnums. Is one better than the other and why? They will be installed on an eddy headed big block. Thx in advance btw, I know the pro magnums need matching push rods.
Ok, you asked for an opinion. Over priced and over rated. No matter which one you pick, the geometry will be way off.
So go with the stock stamped then ?
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Re: comp cam pro magnum or harland sharp rockers
[Re: steve660]
#1774373
03/08/15 03:16 AM
03/08/15 03:16 AM
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3,378 Rancho Cordova, CA
Exit1965
master
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master
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3,378
Rancho Cordova, CA
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Quote:
Depends a lot on how much spring pressure your running. Ive ran 525ish open pressure with Comps and no problems. I don't think aluminum rockers are best for high spring pressure anyway. Ive had a set of Crane Gold rockers break with hi spring pressure. Yes, you will need diff pushrods with Comp Pro Magnums, and they get direct oiling from the adjusters, which I think is a better setup. With the Harland Sharps if your off more than ~.030 you can burn up the pushrods. Who knows, you may need diff pushrods with the Harland Sharps too.
What different pushrods are you talking about, ball/ball? I'm putting some 'ultra pro magnums' on a 493 right now and stock length replacement pushrods (ball/ball solid, no oiling) seem to fit fine with the solid lifters I'm using.
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Re: comp cam pro magnum or harland sharp rockers
[Re: steve660]
#1774375
03/08/15 02:53 PM
03/08/15 02:53 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,228 Bend,OR USA
Cab_Burge
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,228
Bend,OR USA
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Quote:
I don't think aluminum rockers are best for high spring pressure anyway. Ive had a set of Crane Gold rockers break with hi spring pressure. Yes, you will need diff pushrods with Comp Pro Magnums, and they get direct oiling from the adjusters, which I think is a better setup. With the Harland Sharps if your off more than ~.030 you can burn up the pushrods. Who knows, you may need diff pushrods with the Harland Sharps too.
I ran 275 lbs on the seats and 680 lb open on my pump gas 518 C.I. motor with Harland Sharps 1.60 ratio rockers(.700 + lift), shifted it at or above 7000 RPM regulary with a lot of laps and 3000+ street miles with no problems As far as breaking Crane extruded aluminum rockers and then comparing them to full needle bearing Harland Sharp roller rockers is like comparing a brass hammer to a tool steel hammer, the results are based on the use As far as the length of the pushrods Harland Sharp reccommmends from zero to 2 full threads exposed on their 7/16 x 20 adjsuters, which is . 080 differences, if you burnt them up with .030 difference you have some other problem, like rubbing against the block or head not allowing oil to get to the pushrod tips Been there, done that OP, I have used more than one set of Harland Sharp roller rockers as well as T&D and a bunch of other brands and types of rocker on the street and race motors, but not any of the current stainless steel Comp so no comment on them. I am buying another set of full roller Harland Sharp right now to replace the Hughes aluminum rockers on my current 505 C.I. bracket motor Hopefully someone with personel experience on the Comp Stainless will chip in
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
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Re: comp cam pro magnum or harland sharp rockers
[Re: Cab_Burge]
#1774376
03/08/15 03:41 PM
03/08/15 03:41 PM
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Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 35 Canada
Criterion
member
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member
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 35
Canada
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Quote:
I am buying another set of full roller Harland Sharp right now to replace the Hughes aluminum rockers on my current 505 C.I. bracket motor Hopefully someone with personel experience on the Comp Stainless will chip in
Quick question, Cab. What were your impressions like of the Hughes rocker arms? Quality, fit, geometry, any failure issues?
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Re: comp cam pro magnum or harland sharp rockers
[Re: Criterion]
#1774378
03/08/15 04:42 PM
03/08/15 04:42 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,228 Bend,OR USA
Cab_Burge
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,228
Bend,OR USA
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Quote:
Quote:
I am buying another set of full roller Harland Sharp right now to replace the Hughes aluminum rockers on my current 505 C.I. bracket motor Hopefully someone with personel experience on the Comp Stainless will chip in
Quick question, Cab. What were your impressions like of the Hughes rocker arms? Quality, fit, geometry, any failure issues?
I had two of thier adjusters break so I replaced all the adjusters, not the nuts with Manton heat treated after the second one broke( it took some runs on them before they broke ) and then one of the original lock nuts backed off on the new adjusters and ruined that rocker arm and adjuster So three strikes and thier out of my motor. They bolted on and worked, Hughes exchanged them with me(even though I didn't buy them from them originally ) from thier new 1.5 non cyro treated extruded aluminum rocker assemblys to thier 1.6 with cryo treating for the price of the cyro treating and shipping These are on a Eddy Victor Max wedge heads. I over stressed them, evidently I don't pay a lot of attention to scrub patterns, I use lash caps on all my builds, unless it is a low RPM hydraulic lifter motor with spring pressures under 350 lbs open.I have thought of trying to make them better but I would rather race and drive them instead of putting off the maintenance needed later I do have a set of CNC ported 440-1 with a set of Jesel paired shaft rocker arms on them, maybe I'll focus on getting them better on the rocker arm tip alignment to the valve stem center like all the guys with those type rocker do
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
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Re: comp cam pro magnum or harland sharp rockers
[Re: Cab_Burge]
#1774381
03/08/15 06:52 PM
03/08/15 06:52 PM
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Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 561 USA
B3RE
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 561
USA
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Quote:
Quote:
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I am buying another set of full roller Harland Sharp right now to replace the Hughes aluminum rockers on my current 505 C.I. bracket motor Hopefully someone with personel experience on the Comp Stainless will chip in
Quick question, Cab. What were your impressions like of the Hughes rocker arms? Quality, fit, geometry, any failure issues?
I over stressed them, evidently I don't pay a lot of attention to scrub patterns, I use lash caps on all my builds, unless it is a low RPM hydraulic lifter motor with spring pressures under 350 lbs open.
Lash caps huh? Maybe Mopar should have put 1/2" valve stems in their motors so builders had enough contact area for all that sweep. Could that be why you over stressed them? Maybe that scrub pattern (sweep) might be something to look at after all. There are a lot of .800+ lift motors with 5/16 stemmed valves out there that don't use or need lash caps.
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I have thought of trying to make them better but I would rather race and drive them instead of putting off the maintenance needed later
I can't believe you don't have a ton of maintenance now.
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I do have a set of CNC ported 440-1 with a set of Jesel paired shaft rocker arms on them, maybe I'll focus on getting them better on the rocker arm tip alignment to the valve stem center like all the guys with those type rocker do
Do they really? While they may align them to the center, that is only after the shaft height is correct. Centering the roller doesn't do anything to correct geometry.
Mike Beachel
I didn't write the rules of math nor create the laws of physics, I am just bound by them.
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Re: comp cam pro magnum or harland sharp rockers
[Re: B3RE]
#1774384
03/08/15 09:13 PM
03/08/15 09:13 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,228 Bend,OR USA
Cab_Burge
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,228
Bend,OR USA
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On the all of the motors I've built and used Harland Sharp aluminum roller rocker arms, both on OEM cast iron heads and several different sets of Eddy aluminum heads as well as one set of Indy 440-1 aluminum heads, the roller wheel contact at no lift was on the inside third(towards the rocker shafts) of the valve stem, at max lift it was close to the center of the stems( on 5/16,11/32 and 3/8 valve stems ), at max lift is had moved back towards the rocker shafts on both valves, intakes and exhausts . Not the same results with other rocker arms, especially on Hemiroid motors I started using lash caps to avoid mushrooming the valve stem tips on solid lifter motors years ago, not to correct rocker arm deficits I got tired of having to file or stone the ridges, edges, off the top of the mushroomed valve stems before removing them(to avoid ruining the valve guides) when I wanted to take them apart I have found that the valve stem finish can influence the amount of wear that occurs on our motors, a very smooth polished stem will not wear as fast as a unpolished, rough finished valve stem will I'm sure that if I was shooting for the moon(perfection) on all of my motors, RPM and HP output, I would focus on all the aspects of acheiving perfection, not accepting some things like less than perfect rocker arm geometry I have a motor under construction now that I'm waiting on the heads and T&D single shaft rocker arms on, it will be interesting to see how they fit on those heads I'll think about posting the results, if the customer doesn't mind
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
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Re: comp cam pro magnum or harland sharp rockers
[Re: Cab_Burge]
#1774386
03/08/15 11:05 PM
03/08/15 11:05 PM
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Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 561 USA
B3RE
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 561
USA
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Quote:
On the all of the motors I've built and used Harland Sharp aluminum roller rocker arms, both on OEM cast iron heads and several different sets of Eddy aluminum heads as well as one set of Indy 440-1 aluminum heads, the roller wheel contact at no lift was on the inside third(towards the rocker shafts) of the valve stem, at max lift it was close to the center of the stems( on 5/16,11/32 and 3/8 valve stems ), at max lift is had moved back towards the rocker shafts on both valves, intakes and exhausts . Not the same results with other rocker arms, especially on Hemiroid motors I started using lash caps to avoid mushrooming the valve stem tips on solid lifter motors years ago, not to correct rocker arm deficits I got tired of having to file or stone the ridges, edges, off the top of the mushroomed valve stems before removing them(to avoid ruining the valve guides) when I wanted to take them apart I have found that the valve stem finish can influence the amount of wear that occurs on our motors, a very smooth polished stem will not wear as fast as a unpolished, rough finished valve stem will I'm sure that if I was shooting for the moon(perfection) on all of my motors, RPM and HP output, I would focus on all the aspects of acheiving perfection, not accepting some things like less than perfect rocker arm geometry I have a motor under construction now that I'm waiting on the heads and T&D single shaft rocker arms on, it will be interesting to see how they fit on those heads I'll think about posting the results, if the customer doesn't mind
Cab, I could understand not shooting for absolute perfection, but do you realize that a .700" valve lift with Harlands, and stock length valves, will be off about .150" by just bolting the rockers to the cast in stands? That's hardly just shy of perfection. Also, if you are having that much trouble with the burrs and mushrooming on the valve tip, I'd say the valvetrain has some instability that is causing it to take a pounding. Either that, or you are using crappy valves (which I doubt).
Mike Beachel
I didn't write the rules of math nor create the laws of physics, I am just bound by them.
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Re: comp cam pro magnum or harland sharp rockers
[Re: B3RE]
#1774387
03/09/15 01:07 AM
03/09/15 01:07 AM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,228 Bend,OR USA
Cab_Burge
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,228
Bend,OR USA
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I used what valves Ma Mopar put in the stock heads originally back then Ductile iron rocker also. I do check the lift at the retainers with checking springs to see how close the rocker arm ratio is, I haven't checked all my motors after installing the race springs but I do know they make a difference on the net lift at the valve reatainers I do remember one motor picking up 8 hp and 300 RPM increase on the peak HP RPM the dyno by switching pushrods from a set of Smith Bros. 3/8x.083 to a set of Manton Serioes # 3/8 x.120 wall. I was charged by Smith Bros for .120 wall originally I had one break in two pieces in the middle It took the one next to it out and broke the top of the Crower Ultra roller lifter off and it ended up scoring the lifter bushing and damage the cam lobe also I took it back to Smith Bros, it had a visable defect where it broke in the wall, and they replaced both of the damaged pushrods but didn't offer to help on any of the other damamg parts The dyo results ended up making me decide to buy Mantons from then on BTW, I seem to remember at one time that all the cam companys recommended having the sweep start on the inside of the valve stem, on shaft rocker systems, and travel across the middle of the stem to the other side of the stem and then back to where it started, I haven't seen that in a while though I have seen a machine shop plug the original bolt holes on a 440 head and remachine the holes and stands to move the shafts back towards the cam to get the rocker tip to valve stem center better and correct the geometry(SP?) Maybe some day I will get all of this race stuff figured out, maybe not
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
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