Quote:

---

Looking for opinions on the harland sharp 1.5 rockers or the comp cam 1.5 pro magnums. Is one better than the other and why? They will be installed on an eddy headed big block. Thx in advance btw, I know the pro magnums need matching push rods.

---

Ok, you asked for an opinion. Over priced and over rated. No matter which one you pick, the geometry will be way off.

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Looking for opinions on the harland sharp 1.5 rockers or the comp cam 1.5 pro magnums. Is one better than the other and why? They will be installed on an eddy headed big block. Thx in advance btw, I know the pro magnums need matching push rods.

---

Ok, you asked for an opinion. Over priced and over rated. No matter which one you pick, the geometry will be way off.

---

So go with the stock stamped then ?

Quote:

---

Depends a lot on how much spring pressure your running. Ive ran 525ish open pressure with Comps and no problems. I don't think aluminum rockers are best for high spring pressure anyway. Ive had a set of Crane Gold rockers break with hi spring pressure. Yes, you will need diff pushrods with Comp Pro Magnums, and they get direct oiling from the adjusters, which I think is a better setup. With the Harland Sharps if your off more than ~.030 you can burn up the pushrods. Who knows, you may need diff pushrods with the Harland Sharps too.

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Looking for opinions on the harland sharp 1.5 rockers or the comp cam 1.5 pro magnums. Is one better than the other and why? They owill be installed on an eddy headed big block. Thx in advance btw, I know the pro magnums need matching push rods.

---

Ok, you asked for an opinion. Over priced and over rated. No matter which one you pick, the geometry will be way off.

---

So go with the stock stamped then ?

---

Quote:

---

I don't think aluminum rockers are best for high spring pressure anyway. Ive had a set of Crane Gold rockers break with hi spring pressure. Yes, you will need diff pushrods with Comp Pro Magnums, and they get direct oiling from the adjusters, which I think is a better setup. With the Harland Sharps if your off more than ~.030 you can burn up the pushrods. Who knows, you may need diff pushrods with the Harland Sharps too.

---

I ran 275 lbs on the seats and 680 lb open on my pump gas 518 C.I. motor with Harland Sharps 1.60 ratio rockers(.700 + lift), shifted it at or above 7000 RPM regulary with a lot of laps and 3000+ street miles with no problems As far as breaking Crane extruded aluminum rockers and then comparing them to full needle bearing Harland Sharp roller rockers is like comparing a brass hammer to a tool steel hammer, the results are based on the use As far as the length of the pushrods Harland Sharp reccommmends from zero to 2 full threads exposed on their 7/16 x 20 adjsuters, which is . 080 differences, if you burnt them up with .030 difference you have some other problem, like rubbing against the block or head not allowing oil to get to the pushrod tips Been there, done that OP, I have used more than one set of Harland Sharp roller rockers as well as T&D and a bunch of other brands and types of rocker on the street and race motors, but not any of the current stainless steel Comp so no comment on them. I am buying another set of full roller Harland Sharp right now to replace the Hughes aluminum rockers on my current 505 C.I. bracket motor Hopefully someone with personel experience on the Comp Stainless will chip in

Quote:

---

I am buying another set of full roller Harland Sharp right now to replace the Hughes aluminum rockers on my current 505 C.I. bracket motor Hopefully someone with personel experience on the Comp Stainless will chip in

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

I am buying another set of full roller Harland Sharp right now to replace the Hughes aluminum rockers on my current 505 C.I. bracket motor Hopefully someone with personel experience on the Comp Stainless will chip in

---

Quick question, Cab. What were your impressions like of the Hughes rocker arms? Quality, fit, geometry, any failure issues?

---

I had two of thier adjusters break so I replaced all the adjusters, not the nuts with Manton heat treated after the second one broke( it took some runs on them before they broke ) and then one of the original lock nuts backed off on the new adjusters and ruined that rocker arm and adjuster So three strikes and thier out of my motor. They bolted on and worked, Hughes exchanged them with me(even though I didn't buy them from them originally ) from thier new 1.5 non cyro treated extruded aluminum rocker assemblys to thier 1.6 with cryo treating for the price of the cyro treating and shipping These are on a Eddy Victor Max wedge heads. I over stressed them, evidently I don't pay a lot of attention to scrub patterns, I use lash caps on all my builds, unless it is a low RPM hydraulic lifter motor with spring pressures under 350 lbs open.I have thought of trying to make them better but I would rather race and drive them instead of putting off the maintenance needed later I do have a set of CNC ported 440-1 with a set of Jesel paired shaft rocker arms on them, maybe I'll focus on getting them better on the rocker arm tip alignment to the valve stem center like all the guys with those type rocker do

Quote:

---

I've used the comp cam pro magnums for years. The only issue I had was getting the geometry right. I had to use lash caps after I had ordered what I thought were the correct length pushrods. Very durable.

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

I am buying another set of full roller Harland Sharp right now to replace the Hughes aluminum rockers on my current 505 C.I. bracket motor Hopefully someone with personel experience on the Comp Stainless will chip in

---

Quick question, Cab. What were your impressions like of the Hughes rocker arms? Quality, fit, geometry, any failure issues?

---

I over stressed them, evidently I don't pay a lot of attention to scrub patterns, I use lash caps on all my builds, unless it is a low RPM hydraulic lifter motor with spring pressures under 350 lbs open.

---

Quote:

---

I've been running Hughes roller rockers on my small block for about 10 years with moderate spring pressure, 153 on the seat and 383 at 1.25". I had to grind the pi$$ out them to clear the od of the spring. They have a bunch of street miles and 1/8 mile passes on them with no issues.

---

Quote:

---

Depends on the lift. The HS rocker arms are a little long. I think they were designed for higher lift. For a street type engine the Comps work pretty well. I run them on my street motor.

---

Quote:

---

On the all of the motors I've built and used Harland Sharp aluminum roller rocker arms, both on OEM cast iron heads and several different sets of Eddy aluminum heads as well as one set of Indy 440-1 aluminum heads, the roller wheel contact at no lift was on the inside third(towards the rocker shafts) of the valve stem, at max lift it was close to the center of the stems( on 5/16,11/32 and 3/8 valve stems ), at max lift is had moved back towards the rocker shafts on both valves, intakes and exhausts . Not the same results with other rocker arms, especially on Hemiroid motors
I started using lash caps to avoid mushrooming the valve stem tips on solid lifter motors years ago, not to correct rocker arm deficits I got tired of having to file or stone the ridges, edges, off the top of the mushroomed valve stems before removing them(to avoid ruining the valve guides) when I wanted to take them apart I have found that the valve stem finish can influence the amount of wear that occurs on our motors, a very smooth polished stem will not wear as fast as a unpolished, rough finished valve stem will
I'm sure that if I was shooting for the moon(perfection) on all of my motors, RPM and HP output, I would focus on all the aspects of acheiving perfection, not accepting some things like less than perfect rocker arm geometry I have a motor under construction now that I'm waiting on the heads and T&D single shaft rocker arms on, it will be interesting to see how they fit on those heads I'll think about posting the results, if the customer doesn't mind

---

Cab, I could understand not shooting for absolute perfection, but do you realize that a .700" valve lift with Harlands, and stock length valves, will be off about .150" by just bolting the rockers to the cast in stands? That's hardly just shy of perfection.
Also, if you are having that much trouble with the burrs and mushrooming on the valve tip, I'd say the valvetrain has some instability that is causing it to take a pounding. Either that, or you are using crappy valves (which I doubt).