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Re: Street/strip diff upgrade: D60 vs 9" pros & cons
[Re: cudaman1969]
#1752447
02/17/15 03:52 PM
02/17/15 03:52 PM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
Master
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Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
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Quote:
Quote:
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What is considered to be enough HP to bend the Dana 60 ? Is this equally true for narrowed rears with the ladder bar brackets welded to the center section?
Hard for me to imagine bending this rear with the short and heavy wall truck tubes. 
Mark 
Your heavy walls tubes are a help... but the distance
from the ladder bar or 4 link mounts to the end is the
important part.. thats the reason I back brace right
out to the outer bearings
A DANA CAN BE BACK BRACED TOO, all the way to the bearing. Why is this so hard to get into someones mind. Build the ramps to the center, or to the ladder-4-link braces,which is better because you can get more of an angle, or distance from back of housing,then a link(like a 4-link bar with adjusters) then you can put preload into your BACK BRACE. Lets see you bend that. It's called triangulation, same as with your cage. Just use the same engineering with the dana and all the weakness junk goes out the window. On another note when that pinion tries to climb the ring gear in a 9, how much does that center section, which is just bolted to the flat side of the housing, bend and flex that said housing? Won't see this on a dana. This not a mopar thing but the ford rear is not the answer to all rears just the fad at the moment till something else comes along.
Sure it can be braced... sure dont see it though
and I dont tell anyone what to run... if you want
a dana.. go for it... I went with a 9" for my app
and I also run a 8 3/4 which works fine for me but
everyone on here will say otherwize... as many have
said... they all have there place
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Re: Street/strip diff upgrade: D60 vs 9" pros & cons
[Re: MR_P_BODY]
#1752448
02/17/15 04:14 PM
02/17/15 04:14 PM
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Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 6,295
U.S.
moparniac
master
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master
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 6,295
U.S.
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Pics of braced Dana please.
Mopar Performance
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Re: Street/strip diff upgrade: D60 vs 9" pros & cons
[Re: moparniac]
#1752449
02/17/15 04:17 PM
02/17/15 04:17 PM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
Master
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Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
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Quote:
Pics of braced Dana please.
Dont ask me.. I havent seen them
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Re: Street/strip diff upgrade: D60 vs 9" pros & cons
[Re: DoctorDiff]
#1752450
02/17/15 05:11 PM
02/17/15 05:11 PM
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 6,890
North Alabama
Monte_Smith
master
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master
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 6,890
North Alabama
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Quote:
I guess I need to refresh your memory about what I actually posted in response to YOUR original post, quoting race 9" pricing from Strange Engineeering. I didn't pick Strange, YOU DID!
Because the OP specifically said NO spool, I priced a bolt-in S-9 and S-60 street/strip assembly for comparison purposes:
New Strange-60 Dana 60 assy, forged steel 1350 yoke, choice of ratio, Strange-Trac differential and 35 spline axles complete with leaf spring perches installed $2225
New Strange-9" nodular iron case, aluminum pinion support, forged steel 1350 yoke, choice of ratio, Strange-Trac differential, 35 spline axles, fab housing with short back brace and leaf spring perches installed $3175
The price difference is $950. Both assemblies are built by Strange, with the SAME parts. Both are bolt-in units, both have the same axles, both have iron centers and forged yokes. BOTH HAVE THE SAME HIGH-END S-TRAC DIFFERENTIAL installed.
Because you have a problem comparing apples to apples, I updated the price quoted in YOUR POST with the LEAST EXPENSIVE 9" 35 spline traction differential available (Detroit Locker). This is the exact quote from your post, only substituting the spool for a Detroit Locker from Strange:
Strange sheetmetal housing with ends welded on - $525.00
Strange Pro HD center section with a spool, 4.10 gear, and billet yoke - $1245.00
Upgrade to Detroit Locker $300 ($1545 third-member cost)
Strange axles with bearings and 5/8 studs - $515.00
TOTAL $2585
Of course, you can pick the cheapest imported 9" components, coupled with the cheapest 35 spline traction differential, assembled by a buddy for $100 to get the price closer to a US MADE S-60 assembly built with a high end street/strip differential.
I personally didn't pick a damn thing. Brad wanted real world prices, some guy posted what HE paid for his Ford parts and I quoted his post and said "here you go, real world prices", which they were. YOU posted your Dana prices, added the cost of the locker assy that YOU liked and added it to the other guys prices. All I pointed out, was that the Ford parts could be had for less money than quoted, which would bring the price of the Ford closer to what you quoted for the Dana.............I guess heaven forbid somebody do a little price shopping, instead of accepting ONE price as the ONLY price something can be done for..............So I stand corrected, as I didn't understand the rules of the comparison..........carry on.
So in conclusion, an ALL Strange Dana is cheaper than an ALL Strange Ford and that I won't argue with
MrP. I have seen and built some cradles on the back of Danas to attempt to keep them from bending tubes. The nice covers with the "load bolts"......you fab up a bracket that attaches to those. Then you run some pieces of tubing with heims from this fabbed bracket out to more brackets toward the end of the housing. Preferably you have left and right heims in the links, so that you can actually preload the housing a little, in an attempt to keep it from bending forward. Does it help.....YES.........Is it heavy...YES.....Make the rear hard to work on......YES.....Does it totally solve the problem.....NO
You guys can hash it out from here
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Re: Street/strip diff upgrade: D60 vs 9" pros & cons
[Re: moparniac]
#1752453
02/17/15 06:36 PM
02/17/15 06:36 PM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
Master
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Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
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I had one issue with my brothers Olds rear end.. much like a dana.. the axle tubes were welded to the case but at Norwalk the one tube broke the weld free and that tube would rotate in the housing.. at first I didnt figure out that the tube was rotating but 1 wheelie bar was way lower than the other.. the welds were a previous owner and didnt hold... I pulled the diff and zeroed it up again and re-welded with nickle rod and its been fine since.... this was in his 8 sec nostalgia altered
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Re: Street/strip diff upgrade: D60 vs 9" pros & cons
[Re: cudaman1969]
#1752454
02/17/15 06:49 PM
02/17/15 06:49 PM
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,978
Hilltown Pa
1967dartgt
master
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master
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,978
Hilltown Pa
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
What is considered to be enough HP to bend the Dana 60 ? Is this equally true for narrowed rears with the ladder bar brackets welded to the center section?
Hard for me to imagine bending this rear with the short and heavy wall truck tubes.
Mark
Your heavy walls tubes are a help... but the distance
from the ladder bar or 4 link mounts to the end is the
important part.. thats the reason I back brace right
out to the outer bearings
A DANA CAN BE BACK BRACED TOO, all the way to the bearing. Why is this so hard to get into someones mind. Build the ramps to the center, or to the ladder-4-link braces,which is better because you can get more of an angle, or distance from back of housing,then a link(like a 4-link bar with adjusters) then you can put preload into your BACK BRACE. Lets see you bend that. It's called triangulation, same as with your cage. Just use the same engineering with the dana and all the weakness junk goes out the window. On another note when that pinion tries to climb the ring gear in a 9, how much does that center section, which is just bolted to the flat side of the housing, bend and flex that said housing? Won't see this on a dana. This not a mopar thing but the ford rear is not the answer to all rears just the fad at the moment till something else comes along.
Is if the pinion climbs the ring gear and flexs the housing face like you state, the ring gear will move with the pinion as it is in the third member. Just the housing would flex not the pinion. Now in a Dana 60 when this happens you move the pinion further away from ring gear. Not a good thing.
Brett Miller W9 cnc'd heads
STR Chassis fabraction
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Re: Street/strip diff upgrade: D60 vs 9" pros & cons
[Re: moparniac]
#1752455
02/17/15 07:10 PM
02/17/15 07:10 PM
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 8,282
fredericksburg,va
cudaman1969
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 8,282
fredericksburg,va
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Like to make one more point, the closer the ladder bar-4-link-spring to the tire in conjunction with the smallest offset rim, the less chance of bending. Think of a pry bar trying to lift a heavy object, the closer the fulcrum is to the object the more the bar will bend, closer to you hand the more effort you will need to bend that same bar.The tire is moving forward and pulling 3000 lbs or more with it and once it gets past the strength of that tube it will bend something hence it will have to be braced. That's why we're seeing the 4-links-ladders in the wheel well outside the frame next to the tire, more stable too. Don't hook the brace to that cover use a tube with solid heims(just like a 4-like bar with flats) between the braces for suspension, just drop the bar and everything's in the clear. No more complicated or "heavy" 10 lbs at the most, than anything else on the RACE CAR. I'll try to make a drawing to simplify.
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Re: Street/strip diff upgrade: D60 vs 9" pros & cons
[Re: 1967dartgt]
#1752456
02/17/15 07:22 PM
02/17/15 07:22 PM
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 8,282
fredericksburg,va
cudaman1969
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 8,282
fredericksburg,va
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
What is considered to be enough HP to bend the Dana 60 ? Is this equally true for narrowed rears with the ladder bar brackets welded to the center section?
Hard for me to imagine bending this rear with the short and heavy wall truck tubes.
Mark
Your heavy walls tubes are a help... but the distance
from the ladder bar or 4 link mounts to the end is the
important part.. thats the reason I back brace right
out to the outer bearings
A DANA CAN BE BACK BRACED TOO, all the way to the bearing. Why is this so hard to get into someones mind. Build the ramps to the center, or to the ladder-4-link braces,which is better because you can get more of an angle, or distance from back of housing,then a link(like a 4-link bar with adjusters) then you can put preload into your BACK BRACE. Lets see you bend that. It's called triangulation, same as with your cage. Just use the same engineering with the dana and all the weakness junk goes out the window. On another note when that pinion tries to climb the ring gear in a 9, how much does that center section, which is just bolted to the flat side of the housing, bend and flex that said housing? Won't see this on a dana. This not a mopar thing but the ford rear is not the answer to all rears just the fad at the moment till something else comes along.
Is if the pinion climbs the ring gear and flexs the housing face like you state, the ring gear will move with the pinion as it is in the third member. Just the housing would flex not the pinion. Now in a Dana 60 when this happens you move the pinion further away from ring gear. Not a good thing.
Read what i said again, the housing will flex, didn't say anything about the pinion flexing. In our Race car applications do you think a pinion will flex in that 9 inch carrier or dana housing?
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Re: Street/strip diff upgrade: D60 vs 9" pros & cons
[Re: cudaman1969]
#1752457
02/17/15 07:31 PM
02/17/15 07:31 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 15,439
Val-haul-ass... eventually
BradH
OP
Taking time off to work on my car
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OP
Taking time off to work on my car
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 15,439
Val-haul-ass... eventually
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Wow... wasn't trying to cause a major  over upgrading a silly-a$$ 10-sec.  . Good info, but some of you have taken the original intent of the post and escalated it to the point where I'm wating for a Web SWAT Team to come in here and start picking off posters one at a time. Thanks, everyone, for a truly enlightening thread! 
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Re: Street/strip diff upgrade: D60 vs 9" pros & cons
[Re: roadhazard]
#1752461
02/17/15 08:52 PM
02/17/15 08:52 PM
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,776
Ontario Canada
MattW
master
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master
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,776
Ontario Canada
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Quote:
Been following this thread since the beginning 
I to was on the fence on what to replace the 8.75 in my car with..... Dana 60 or Ferd 9"
Thanks for helping me decide on the S-60 and of course Dr. Diff will get my business
The Dana would fit my application well,l buuuuuuuuuut what if I want to upgrade because of bigger power and harder launch?
If I start with the moly housing, back braced and add good axles and a SUITABLE Nod case, I can Always upgrade to a Better case.The Dana your done.
I read on YB that the lenco billet locker was broken by a guy in a LX mustange with a 1.30 60.
So decisions desisions 
Matt
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Re: Street/strip diff upgrade: D60 vs 9" pros & cons
[Re: MattW]
#1752464
02/17/15 09:05 PM
02/17/15 09:05 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,490
smyrna,tn
draginmopars
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,490
smyrna,tn
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a factory Dana such as in a "B" body How thick are the tubes? I keep hearing of the tube bending. The only Dana I have narrowed are truck dana They are .480" thick  
Ha-Ha Racin
Havin Fun 101
Howard
68 "Cummins" Satellite
70 W-2 449 "More Door" Dart
70 340 Dart Swinger, 4spd
71 360 Dart Swinger
72 540/ 518 Dart Swinger
73 airwolf 446/a-500 Cuda
73 "Cummins" Crew cab-car hauler
84 446 Dodge Rampage (tube chassis)
92 CTD 11' flat bed
92 CTD club cab
07 Dodge Caliber
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Re: Street/strip diff upgrade: D60 vs 9" pros & cons
[Re: cudaman1969]
#1752465
02/17/15 09:07 PM
02/17/15 09:07 PM
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,978
Hilltown Pa
1967dartgt
master
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master
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,978
Hilltown Pa
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
What is considered to be enough HP to bend the Dana 60 ? Is this equally true for narrowed rears with the ladder bar brackets welded to the center section?
Hard for me to imagine bending this rear with the short and heavy wall truck tubes.
Mark
Your heavy walls tubes are a help... but the distance
from the ladder bar or 4 link mounts to the end is the
important part.. thats the reason I back brace right
out to the outer bearings
A DANA CAN BE BACK BRACED TOO, all the way to the bearing. Why is this so hard to get into someones mind. Build the ramps to the center, or to the ladder-4-link braces,which is better because you can get more of an angle, or distance from back of housing,then a link(like a 4-link bar with adjusters) then you can put preload into your BACK BRACE. Lets see you bend that. It's called triangulation, same as with your cage. Just use the same engineering with the dana and all the weakness junk goes out the window. On another note when that pinion tries to climb the ring gear in a 9, how much does that center section, which is just bolted to the flat side of the housing, bend and flex that said housing? Won't see this on a dana. This not a mopar thing but the ford rear is not the answer to all rears just the fad at the moment till something else comes along.
Is if the pinion climbs the ring gear and flexs the housing face like you state, the ring gear will move with the pinion as it is in the third member. Just the housing would flex not the pinion. Now in a Dana 60 when this happens you move the pinion further away from ring gear. Not a good thing.
Read what i said again, the housing will flex, didn't say anything about the pinion flexing. In our Race car applications do you think a pinion will flex in that 9 inch carrier or dana housing?
Well since a nine inch pinion is supported in two locations and the Dana only one which leaves a longer unsupported pinion you tell me.
Brett Miller W9 cnc'd heads
STR Chassis fabraction
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