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Re: Street/strip diff upgrade: D60 vs 9" pros & cons
[Re: MattW]
#1752388
02/15/15 02:58 PM
02/15/15 02:58 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 15,439
Val-haul-ass... eventually
BradH
OP
Taking time off to work on my car
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OP
Taking time off to work on my car
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 15,439
Val-haul-ass... eventually
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Quote:
Don't know if this was mentioned before but the Dana S60 will allow you to change gears without spreading the case.
Yeah, I saw that while researching the options. 
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Re: Street/strip diff upgrade: D60 vs 9" pros & cons
[Re: BradH]
#1752389
02/15/15 03:01 PM
02/15/15 03:01 PM
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,776
Ontario Canada
MattW
master
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master
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,776
Ontario Canada
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Quote:
Maybe "no point", but some serious  factor...
Sorta like hitting a nail with a 20 ton hammer
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Re: Street/strip diff upgrade: D60 vs 9" pros & cons
[Re: BradH]
#1752390
02/15/15 03:07 PM
02/15/15 03:07 PM
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,776
Ontario Canada
MattW
master
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master
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,776
Ontario Canada
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Quote:
Quote:
Don't know if this was mentioned before but the Dana S60 will allow you to change gears without spreading the case.
Yeah, I saw that while researching the options.
I'm starting to think that the only way a Dana is cheaper is the one you build yourself?
My time =$$$$$ so i would like to know what type of upgrades to a 9 that would survive a 3000 to 3400 car running 9 flat that is 90% street driven and 10% raced.
Would you bend the Dana with the above power?
Matt
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Re: Street/strip diff upgrade: D60 vs 9" pros & cons
[Re: MattW]
#1752395
02/15/15 04:37 PM
02/15/15 04:37 PM
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,751
Graham, WA
Polarapete
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,751
Graham, WA
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Quote:
Quote:
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Dana 60 all the way for your car Brad. What gear are you going to run? Only question if it was me would be Trac Loc or TrueTrac.
Actually considering at a Detroit Locker more seriously than a TrueTrac. I'm finding mixed reviews of using a TrueTrac in drag applications, but I really don't know much else about them.
The specifics for my junk (not covered previously in this thread) are...
- 3750+ # E-body w/ driver
- 727 w/ 4500-flash 9" converter
- Stock-stroke modified 440
- 275/60R15s DOT Drag Radials
The 8.75" I have now has...
- OEM 742 case
- 4.10s (which is the ratio I'd stick with)
- Power-Lok (clutch-type) diff carrier
- MW billet caps
- Cheap back-brace on housing (too narrow to probably do much good)
Street car w/ best pass of 10.52 at 126+ (6.6_ at 102 in 1/8th) w/ a 1.45 60-ft. I know it pulls the wheels 4+" according to friends who watched the car launch, but nobody ever bothered to provide me photographic evidence.
The new engine should make another 40+ HP, so I'm expecting to be in the lower 10s w/ the rest of the combination (converter, gearing, etc.) staying the same.
Strictly from a budget perspective, the Dana 60 appears to be the more affordable. 
Don't know if this was mentioned before but the Dana S60 will allow you to change gears without spreading the case.
That is significant advantage to the S60. I have a case spreader, but have never used it, I always got lucky with gear changes, though they took a lot of trial and error.
Now the Tru-Trac (worm geared LSD) is great on the street (transparent and no special lube), but the Detroit Locker would be better for your horsepower level, I think. Skip the spool as it will wear out your street tires and is best for strip only cars...when you get there (trailered, strip only) go with the spool and sell the Detroit Locker to some wanna-be  that will more than cover the cost of a new spool 
1986 Dodge Ramcharger 440 2wd, Bracket Racer Under Construction
1998 Ram 2500 QuadCab, new daily driver.
2008 Honda Element
2014 Carry-On 7x14 Cargo Trailer
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Re: Street/strip diff upgrade: D60 vs 9" pros & cons
[Re: Jeremiah]
#1752396
02/15/15 04:37 PM
02/15/15 04:37 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,259
Bend,OR USA
Cab_Burge
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,259
Bend,OR USA
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Quote:
This topic is amusing. Similar to the last post on this I am waiting for someone with experience to quote a price on a 9" or 9.5" rear with the back brace, axles, yoke, etc ready to install with a carrier that will live in a high 9-low 10 door car and still be okay on the street. When I talked to Dr. Diff about this he was adamant that the Dana 60 was a better deal due to the stronger/larger power lock internals. If I could find a reputable place to quote me on a Ford 9" it would be a consideration. Instead the guy with the good reputation is telling me different. And don't just tell me to "call a competent fab shop" because I'm not playing that game. That is how I ended up with all of the other junk that doesn't work right.
Call Currie or Moser and see what price they quote you   The last comparision price I saw a long time ago in a magazine about this same debate was a Dana 60 was betwen $300.00 to $1200.00 less than the same equipted Ford nine inch type rear end, that was with no Ford parts in it, all aftermarket H.D or race parts The lastest quote I have heard of for a all out race chrome moly housing fully prep with all the mounts for a drag car was $2500.00  It ended up cracking and leaking after several races from tire shake, they had to have it welded up to repair it As far as all the race cars using nine inch type rear ends that sort of displaces the old adage about not being able to fol all the people all the time, huh    I seem to remember the early Olds and Pontiac rear ends being the hot set up for drag rear ends back in the 1960 and early 1970s, before the Chrismans made up all the media hype about the Ford nine inch being so good How about we put this post to bed now I know that won't happen, will it
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
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Re: Street/strip diff upgrade: D60 vs 9" pros & cons
[Re: fourgearsavoy]
#1752397
02/15/15 04:53 PM
02/15/15 04:53 PM
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 6,890
North Alabama
Monte_Smith
master
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master
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 6,890
North Alabama
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Every time this discussion starts, the first thing guys start harping on, is the fact that a Ford will cost "twice" as much and that is simply NOT true. They will always conveniently compare prices of a junkyard Dana to a Mark Williams Ford or some such nonsense. The bottom line, is that done correctly, the Ford should cost you MAYBE a couple hundred bucks more.
So brakes, axles, spools, lockers, gears, bearings, etc are a wash. They all cost the same, regardless of the rear you choose. So that leaves any price difference in the housing and center section itself. If you are junkyard scrounging, a truck Dana will likely cost you a little more than a cheapo 9" housing. You will need then both narrowed, a back brace on the Ford and new ends for the Dana. Probably a wash in the end. If you DID find a pass car Dana, you would likely pay high..............So lets move to the aftermarket. If you get an S-60 or something similar, that bare housing WILL cost you more than a backbraced Ford housing from Moser, Currie, etc. Then on the center itself, guys look up a complete center from Mark Williams and see it can cost over two grand. Yep, it sure can, but that is not what you NEED. You can buy a nodular iron center for around $300 if you shop around. A decent pinion support for about a $100. So you have approx. $400 in the Ford center with no internals. We look back at the S-60 housing, that cost a couple hundred more than the Currie(or whatever) housing and there is your couple hundred bucks more to build the Ford. HARDLY double as many claim.
Brad has brakes and wants to use them.........not a problem. Mopar ends on the Ford or two new caliper brackets. Problem solved.
As already pointed out, even fairly low powered cars can bend housings, so if you go the Dana route you are going to have try and do something to brace up the housing = added cost. Everybody already knows that back bracing a Ford is a must, which is true, but they look at the Dana......it's big, it's beefy, which is all true, but mistakenly think it's bullet proof because it's big. But that is the CENTER, NOT the tubes. I don't care if it is a truck rear with .250 wall tubes. If the car in question NEEDS a backbraced Ford housing. that SAME car WILL bend a Dana.......period.
Monte
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Re: Street/strip diff upgrade: D60 vs 9" pros & cons
[Re: Cab_Burge]
#1752398
02/15/15 04:55 PM
02/15/15 04:55 PM
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,751
Graham, WA
Polarapete
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,751
Graham, WA
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In case you all still have not had enough of this topic and live in the Northwest, you can have this man build you a housing for your 9" http://scribnerwelding.com/His stuff looks like jewelry and is priced like it too. Of course this is only for the housing, gears, carrier, axles, bearings, brakes are extra
1986 Dodge Ramcharger 440 2wd, Bracket Racer Under Construction
1998 Ram 2500 QuadCab, new daily driver.
2008 Honda Element
2014 Carry-On 7x14 Cargo Trailer
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Re: Street/strip diff upgrade: D60 vs 9" pros & cons
[Re: Cab_Burge]
#1752399
02/15/15 05:01 PM
02/15/15 05:01 PM
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 6,890
North Alabama
Monte_Smith
master
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master
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 6,890
North Alabama
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Quote:
Quote:
This topic is amusing. Similar to the last post on this I am waiting for someone with experience to quote a price on a 9" or 9.5" rear with the back brace, axles, yoke, etc ready to install with a carrier that will live in a high 9-low 10 door car and still be okay on the street. When I talked to Dr. Diff about this he was adamant that the Dana 60 was a better deal due to the stronger/larger power lock internals. If I could find a reputable place to quote me on a Ford 9" it would be a consideration. Instead the guy with the good reputation is telling me different. And don't just tell me to "call a competent fab shop" because I'm not playing that game. That is how I ended up with all of the other junk that doesn't work right.
Call Currie or Moser and see what price they quote you The last comparision price I saw a long time ago in a magazine about this same debate was a Dana 60 was betwen $300.00 to $1200.00 less than the same equipted Ford nine inch type rear end, that was with no Ford parts in it, all aftermarket H.D or race parts The lastest quote I have heard of for a all out race chrome moly housing fully prep with all the mounts for a drag car was $2500.00 It ended up cracking and leaking after several races from tire shake, they had to have it welded up to repair it As far as all the race cars using nine inch type rear ends that sort of displaces the old adage about not being able to fol all the people all the time, huh I seem to remember the early Olds and Pontiac rear ends being the hot set up for drag rear ends back in the 1960 and early 1970s, before the Chrismans made up all the media hype about the Ford nine inch being so good How about we put this post to bed now I know that won't happen, will it
Is there an actual point in the midst of that rambling and graemlins. If it was, I missed it..............Prime example of misinformation right here. Comparing a $2500 sheetmetal pro-mod housing to a junkyard Dana. Doubt the OP needs a Pro-Mod housing, so that little tidbit of information is totally irrelevant to this thread. And if his car DID need a Pro-Mod housing and you think an S-60 or Junkyard Dana would be as good...............well, I want some of what you are smoking.....LOL!!!
Now, will serious tire shake break a super high dollar sheetmetal housing.......you bet your azz it will. It will break any and Everything, so that is a useless point to make as well, when we are dealing with a thread for a rear for a 9 or 10 sec car.
Monte
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Re: Street/strip diff upgrade: D60 vs 9" pros & cons
[Re: justinp61]
#1752401
02/15/15 05:20 PM
02/15/15 05:20 PM
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 6,890
North Alabama
Monte_Smith
master
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master
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 6,890
North Alabama
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Quote:
Hell, I think I'll sell my S-60 and buy one of those cheap 9" rears. Apparently they've came down in price a bunch since I bought my S-60. I have now learned that Dana's are junk unless you run Prius power . Apparently the longer these posts go the stronger the 9" gets, I'm surprised that dump trucks and semi's aren't using. Just look at all the money they could save over those monster Eaton's.
Why don't we have a sticky for this, it could be a one liner. Dana's are weak heavy junk, buy a cheap 9", it'll live forever.
Why don't you put that S-60 under a dump truck.
Never fails, the comparisons ALWAYS go to this kind of ridiculous crap, instead of keeping it relevant to the topic at hand. Lets never let facts get in the way of a good loyalty questioning..........LOL!!!
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Re: Street/strip diff upgrade: D60 vs 9" pros & cons
[Re: Monte_Smith]
#1752403
02/15/15 05:43 PM
02/15/15 05:43 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 15,439
Val-haul-ass... eventually
BradH
OP
Taking time off to work on my car
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OP
Taking time off to work on my car
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 15,439
Val-haul-ass... eventually
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Quote:
Never fails, the comparisons ALWAYS go to this kind of ridiculous crap, instead of keeping it relevant to the topic at hand. Lets never let facts get in the way of a good loyalty questioning..........LOL!!!
I did ask in my first post to keep it to the facts... but I can't control the weather, either.
One of the problems w/ coming up w/ an apples-to-apples comparison is there are so many options for 9" stuff that I don't know what's adequate (or comparable to an S-60) for the application to price it out.
Also, I really have to approach this as buying a new assembly from a vendor, rather than piecing something together on my own. My time constraints just to get an engine back together, etc., are tight enough as it is.
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Re: Street/strip diff upgrade: D60 vs 9" pros & cons
[Re: Monte_Smith]
#1752404
02/15/15 05:47 PM
02/15/15 05:47 PM
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 11,684
W. Kentucky
justinp61
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 11,684
W. Kentucky
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Quote:
Quote:
Hell, I think I'll sell my S-60 and buy one of those cheap 9" rears. Apparently they've came down in price a bunch since I bought my S-60. I have now learned that Dana's are junk unless you run Prius power . Apparently the longer these posts go the stronger the 9" gets, I'm surprised that dump trucks and semi's aren't using. Just look at all the money they could save over those monster Eaton's.
Why don't we have a sticky for this, it could be a one liner. Dana's are weak heavy junk, buy a cheap 9", it'll live forever.
Why don't you put that S-60 under a dump truck.
Never fails, the comparisons ALWAYS go to this kind of ridiculous crap, instead of keeping it relevant to the topic at hand. Lets never let facts get in the way of a good loyalty questioning..........LOL!!!
Loyalty my a$$! If I ran a high power RACE car it would have a 9.5" in it. A Dana is more than enough for most street/strip cars on here, period. You were the one that stated "evenly fairly low powered cars can bend Dana housings", my car is "fairly low powered". It's been a bunch of 1.38-.40 60' at 3260# and I can push it in the shop with little trouble, if they get hard to push when they're bent as you describe, I doubt mines bent. The OP asked about a rear for a street/strip car. Every car on this board does not need a built to the hilt 9".
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Re: Street/strip diff upgrade: D60 vs 9" pros & cons
[Re: BradH]
#1752406
02/15/15 06:13 PM
02/15/15 06:13 PM
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,776
Ontario Canada
MattW
master
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master
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,776
Ontario Canada
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Quote:
Quote:
Never fails, the comparisons ALWAYS go to this kind of ridiculous crap, instead of keeping it relevant to the topic at hand. Lets never let facts get in the way of a good loyalty questioning..........LOL!!!
I did ask in my first post to keep it to the facts... but I can't control the weather, either.
One of the problems w/ coming up w/ an apples-to-apples comparison is there are so many options for 9" stuff that I don't know what's adequate (or comparable to an S-60) for the application to price it out.
Also, I really have to approach this as buying a new assembly from a vendor, rather than piecing something together on my own. My time constraints just to get an engine back together, etc., are tight enough as it is.
Trying to figure out what I need with the ford 9
1 a nodular iron centre section.
2 Pinion support.
3 Back braced housing.
I'm I missing anything?
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I'm not an expert on the subject but I don't really think you could go wrong with either in 90% of the applications we use them in. I will say the one in my Daytona is a well built 9" with a strange carrier and I shattered a set of 4.30 gears at Norwalk and it is a pretty light car (2400 pounds) and was only running 8.60's at the time. 