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Line boring costs #1751064 02/10/15 04:36 PM 02/10/15 04:36 PM
Joined: Feb 2013 Posts: 760 Canada C CTD5.9 OP super stock
CTD5.9 OP super stock C Joined: Feb 2013 Posts: 760 Canada	I am building my first proper engine, a 440 with a 4.25" stroker kit. I wanted some extra security so I went with 440 source aluminum caps and studs. The machine shop I am using me quoted upwards of $1000 (Canadian) dollars to line bore the block. Is this normal to cost 5x what honing would? I am going to get this done no matter what, but this effects the money I had budgeted for machining.

Re: Line boring costs [Re: CTD5.9] #1751065 02/10/15 04:49 PM 02/10/15 04:49 PM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 75,075 U.S.S.A. JohnRR I Win
JohnRR I Win Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 75,075 U.S.S.A.	What is the HP output of the engine planned to be ? Are the source caps sized for a low deck or an RB ? Either way that is a bit excessive to me, the shop must be very proud of their work? But in their defense there is a lot more work involved line boring a block vs. just a hone.

Re: Line boring costs [Re: JohnRR] #1751066 02/10/15 05:29 PM 02/10/15 05:29 PM
Joined: Feb 2013 Posts: 760 Canada C CTD5.9 OP super stock
CTD5.9 OP super stock C Joined: Feb 2013 Posts: 760 Canada	550-600 is the goal. They are designed to work with either, so I assume B size and will need to be cut a fair bit. That alone will be a good amount of time. It did seem really high to me, Considering the price of the rest of their machine work was very competitive with shops I phoned in other cities. The line boring however was not, quotes from other shops came in at around 500-600. I would take it elsewhere but the 6 hours of driving would make it pointless.

Re: Line boring costs [Re: CTD5.9] #1751067 02/10/15 06:06 PM 02/10/15 06:06 PM
Joined: Jun 2006 Posts: 5,165 CT GTX MATT master
GTX MATT master Joined: Jun 2006 Posts: 5,165 CT	My shop charges $250 Now I need to pin those needles, got to feel that heat Hear my motor screamin while I'm tearin up the street

Re: Line boring costs [Re: GTX MATT] #1751068 02/10/15 06:41 PM 02/10/15 06:41 PM
Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 8,899 Ontario, Canada S Stanton Don't question me!
Stanton Don't question me! S Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 8,899 Ontario, Canada	Well first you have to consider that the 440Source aluminum caps are machined for low deck motors, not the 440 block which has larger crank main journals. Therefore they first have to machine the caps to "close" to the 440 journal size. Only then can they start the line bore/hone process. Still, $1000 is still steep even for Canada. When I did mine I couldn't even find a shop that could do the job. Mind you, I only searched locally. It would help to know where you are, this IS a big country !!!

Re: Line boring costs [Re: Stanton] #1751069 02/10/15 07:00 PM 02/10/15 07:00 PM
Joined: Feb 2013 Posts: 760 Canada C CTD5.9 OP super stock
CTD5.9 OP super stock C Joined: Feb 2013 Posts: 760 Canada	I'm in southern alberta, an hour away from the biggest city with a machine shop which sucks but I expect to pay a bit more. I never really thought about the caps being 400 size, makes sense that it would cost more to cut away the extra .125". I guess I can only blame myself for this one.

Re: Line boring costs [Re: CTD5.9] #1751070 02/10/15 07:05 PM 02/10/15 07:05 PM
Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 8,899 Ontario, Canada S Stanton Don't question me!
Stanton Don't question me! S Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 8,899 Ontario, Canada	Pays to ask. When using these caps on a RB motor there is ZERO cost savings over a set from, say, Indy Cylinder Head. I ended up sending mine back for credit and just used the stock caps. What about Davenport in Calgary, they still around ?? Back in the 80's they were "Mopar friendly" !

Re: Line boring costs [Re: CTD5.9] #1751071 02/10/15 07:05 PM 02/10/15 07:05 PM
Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 8,899 Ontario, Canada S Stanton Don't question me!
Stanton Don't question me! S Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 8,899 Ontario, Canada	Have you bought the stroker "kit" yet ??

Re: Line boring costs [Re: Stanton] #1751072 02/10/15 07:33 PM 02/10/15 07:33 PM
Joined: Feb 2013 Posts: 760 Canada C CTD5.9 OP super stock
CTD5.9 OP super stock C Joined: Feb 2013 Posts: 760 Canada	not yet, wanted to make sure the block checked out first. If it won't clean up I don't want to have a set of .030 pistons and a .040 block. I could return the caps and just have studs installed and line honed. I just worry about the potential problems.

Re: Line boring costs [Re: CTD5.9] #1751073 02/10/15 07:56 PM 02/10/15 07:56 PM
Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 8,899 Ontario, Canada S Stanton Don't question me!
Stanton Don't question me! S Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 8,899 Ontario, Canada	Why not build a low deck stroker then? I've run the numbers and you can get just as much power out of a stroked 400 block as you can with a 440. The 400 (in my opinion) offers a beefier block (in the main webs) and is 75 lbs. lighter. And you can use those caps with a line hone instead of a line bore !! What sort of power are you aiming for? I take it its for a street car since there are no strips left in the south, right ??

Re: Line boring costs [Re: CTD5.9] #1751074 02/10/15 07:57 PM 02/10/15 07:57 PM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 75,075 U.S.S.A. JohnRR I Win
JohnRR I Win Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 75,075 U.S.S.A.	Quote: not yet, wanted to make sure the block checked out first. If it won't clean up I don't want to have a set of .030 pistons and a .040 block. I could return the caps and just have studs installed and line honed. I just worry about the potential problems. Drag motor , or a dual purpose car ? If dual purpose with more time spent on the street studs and a linehone and you'll be fine. Otherwise return the caps and buy a set sized for an RB and it should cost less.

Re: Line boring costs [Re: JohnRR] #1751075 02/10/15 08:17 PM 02/10/15 08:17 PM
Joined: Feb 2013 Posts: 760 Canada C CTD5.9 OP super stock
CTD5.9 OP super stock C Joined: Feb 2013 Posts: 760 Canada	The engine will be in my mud bogging truck, so it could be 5 seconds of wot or 35. However long it takes me to make it 200 feet so this could potentially be harder on it then a drag car would be. I would use a low deck, but this is what I had available. All my 400's are in running vehicles/irrigation pumps that I would rather not dismantle. So many options/scenario's to look at. Thank you everyone for the advise.

Re: Line boring costs [Re: CTD5.9] #1751076 02/10/15 08:30 PM 02/10/15 08:30 PM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 16,376 D dogdays I Live Here
dogdays I Live Here D Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 16,376	The B is not anywhere close to 75 lb lighter than an RB. The blocks weigh about the same. 440 crank and rods weigh a little more. Pistons are about the same Heads and exhaust manifolds are the same. Intake manifolds aren't that far apart if you switch to an aluminum one for either motor. What else is there? I'd say a mud bogging motor is maybe going to be sitting at full throttle and high rpm for quite a bit longer than a drag motor, it pays to beef up the bottom end. I was under the impression that most aluminum main caps come in B main size. R. Last edited by dogdays; 02/11/15 01:08 PM.

Re: Line boring costs [Re: dogdays] #1751077 02/10/15 09:07 PM 02/10/15 09:07 PM
Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 8,899 Ontario, Canada S Stanton Don't question me!
Stanton Don't question me! S Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 8,899 Ontario, Canada	Good luck with whatever you decide.

Re: Line boring costs [Re: Stanton] #1751078 02/11/15 12:52 AM 02/11/15 12:52 AM
Joined: Jan 2012 Posts: 2,672 Stuttgart, Arkansas rickseeman master
rickseeman master Joined: Jan 2012 Posts: 2,672 Stuttgart, Arkansas	I would use the stock caps. 2011 Drag Pak Challenger

Re: Line boring costs [Re: dogdays] #1751079 02/11/15 12:39 PM 02/11/15 12:39 PM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 75,075 U.S.S.A. JohnRR I Win
JohnRR I Win Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 75,075 U.S.S.A.	Quote: The B is not anywhere close to 75 lb lighter than an RB. The blocks weigh about the same. 440 crank and rods weigh a little more. Pistons are about the same Heads and exhaust manifolds are the same. Intake manifolds aren't that far apart if you switch to an aluminum one for either motor. What else is there? I'd say a mud bogging motor is maybe going to be sitting at full throttle and high rpm for quite a bit longer than a drag motor, it pays to beef up the bottom end. I was under the impression that most aluminum main caps come in B main size. R. R. A 400 might weigh 25 ... maybe 35 ... lbs less , but 75 ?? I can't really say how the alum mains are sized , I bought a set from mancini back in )# , but just shipped them off to Dan C. and he installed them ... but they did go in a 400 block ???

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