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Re: Will I Fry My Header Coating? [Re: b54406barrel] #1747067 02/06/15 10:18 PM 02/06/15 10:18 PM
Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 10,938 Spokane Valley, WA Big Bad Bee OP I Live Here
Big Bad Bee OP I Live Here Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 10,938 Spokane Valley, WA	Quote: Quote: Close the exhausts...It's a lot better when you can also hear everything that's happening... 100%! I shall do it! I've been thirsting to get those together. Hey Rex, how the heck have you been? We need to hook up at a show this summer so we can park the cars together! I’m listening.

Re: Will I Fry My Header Coating? [Re: Big Bad Bee] #1747068 02/06/15 11:57 PM 02/06/15 11:57 PM
Joined: Nov 2004 Posts: 3,518 pacific northwest S Stroker Scamp master
Stroker Scamp master S Joined: Nov 2004 Posts: 3,518 pacific northwest	Mine started to discolor once due to timing, damage was done but I was able to shine them back up with some Mothers and elbow grease footbrake N/A SB 408 Scamp 10.10 @ 132 street/strip 73 Duster 340 street strip 12.79 @ 105

Re: Will I Fry My Header Coating? [Re: Big Bad Bee] #1747069 02/07/15 02:21 PM 02/07/15 02:21 PM
Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 3,054 USA B b54406barrel master
b54406barrel master B Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 3,054 USA	Quote: Quote: Quote: Close the exhausts...It's a lot better when you can also hear everything that's happening... 100%! I shall do it! I've been thirsting to get those together. Hey Rex, how the heck have you been? We need to hook up at a show this summer so we can park the cars together! Hey Lindy, looking forward to seeing you & your B this Summer!

Re: Will I Fry My Header Coating? [Re: CCPcoatings.com] #1747070 02/07/15 04:13 PM 02/07/15 04:13 PM
Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 10,938 Spokane Valley, WA Big Bad Bee OP I Live Here
Big Bad Bee OP I Live Here Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 10,938 Spokane Valley, WA	Quote: Quote: As I was installing my TTi headers I hopped on the TTi website to see what torque specs were on the flange bolts. In the instuctions I saw an alarming bit. It basically said that I should run cast iron exhaust manifolds or an old pair of headers to break in a new engine because of the mixture problems and other conditions that create enough heat to burn the coating off around the header flange. My headers came with the ceramic coating that was pretty scratched up from storage and shipping. I cleaned and scuffed them and shot them again with ceramic coating. Is there a way to preserve the coating? Something tells me I should have had these baked at a powder coating outfit before I put them on this engine. The engine is installed and I REALLY don't want to remove it... You lost me at having the headers "baked at a powder coating outfit". I'm not sure how that would help you since you're trying NOT to overheat the headers in the first place. To answer your question, YES you will generally trash the bright ceramic coating if you're firing up a new motor that hasn't been tuned properly or if you dyno an engine. Too lean and too rich are BOTH BAD. It's unlikely you'll hurt the flanges but too lean will overheat the coating from the flange to mid primary. Too rich and it will overheat mid primary to collector. The headers below took about a minute or two to discolor when the engine was too lean. It sounds like you need to take the headers off anyway since the coating arrived damaged. Why would you accept them? I never replied to this. I thought maybe if I had the ceramic coating on my headers baked before I installed them it would help them survive the high temperature of break In. I can see not that it would t help because it's more about extreme temperatures than about the green coating on the headers. I’m listening.

Re: Will I Fry My Header Coating? [Re: Big Bad Bee] #1747071 02/07/15 05:30 PM 02/07/15 05:30 PM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 31,082 Oregon A AndyF I Win
AndyF I Win A Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 31,082 Oregon	You won't fry the coating if the engine is tuned properly.

Re: Will I Fry My Header Coating? [Re: AndyF] #1747072 02/07/15 06:50 PM 02/07/15 06:50 PM
Joined: Sep 2005 Posts: 6,516 Santa Cruz, California L Lefty master
Lefty master L Joined: Sep 2005 Posts: 6,516 Santa Cruz, California	Timing is the killer of header coating in my experience. Having the spark set too late causes the mix to still be burning inside the header tube and red hot happens fast. Prime the engine with oil 1st before installing the dist. If you can use an old dist cap that's drilled to be able to see the #1 terminal inside the cap. Set the motor to TDC on #1 (verify by looking down the #1 spark plug hole to make sure you're not 180 off) and look at the holes in the cap. On a B/RB the rotor turns CCW, so spin the dist till the rotor is just barely contacting the #1 terminal from the CCW direction. Then turn the dist approx 35% CLOCKWISE to advance the timing and lock it down. This way you will never start the motor with the charge burning in the head pipe. If you don't have a cap to drill, use a marker on the cap for the #1 edge location and marks on the dist body for the rotor edges. Brake clean will remove the marker so you can make changes trying to line up the rotor Mark the dist base to block in case you have to temporarily retard the spark to get the engine to fire initially. Put the dist right back after it fires. A point and shoot thermometer is mandatory to watch the head pipe temps. Shut it down if they get above 800F. The break in does not have to be in one 30 minute session. Six 5 minute sessions or ten 3 minute sessions is the same. Fans are a must imo, same for a timing light to get it exactly at 35 before - immediately, 1st thing. I'm sure some will poo poo my method and I may not have 100% correctly described it, but I've used it on both TTI and Dougs headers and never burn't the coating nor wiped a cam lobe. (yet, fingers crossed)

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