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Do you have(or know someone who does) the nessecary mikes, inside and outside or snap gauges and outside mikes to measure the inside of the main caps torque down with both the bolts and then the studs?

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Yes I am equipped to do that. Excellent advice. I probably would have figured that out eventually

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I know I'll get ripped for this BUT I have gotten
lucky and installed studs without having it line bored..
put the studs and crank in it and see.. measure twice..
by the way... that engine is still running and still
turning some decently high revs

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I know I'll get ripped for this BUT I have gotten
lucky and installed studs without having it line bored..
put the studs and crank in it and see.. measure twice..
by the way... that engine is still running and still
turning some decently high revs

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That's the worst possible thing you could ever do! - ok, just kidding, but it is winter - - - - -.

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With your engine I would use the bolts, since that was what it was align honed with. The Studs, because their shank is fatter then the bolts are sure to push those caps out of their alignment. If you want to use the studs, redo the align hone for them.

Im sure your measurements will confirm that. You really don't need the studs though with your combo. But if the blocks still bare, use them and rehone.

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I know I'll get ripped for this BUT I have gotten
lucky and installed studs without having it line bored..
put the studs and crank in it and see.. measure twice..
by the way... that engine is still running and still
turning some decently high revs

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With your engine I would use the bolts, since that was what it was align honed with. The Studs, because their shank is fatter then the bolts are sure to push those caps out of their alignment. If you want to use the studs, redo the align hone for them.

Im sure your measurements will confirm that. You really don't need the studs though with your combo. But if the blocks still bare, use them and rehone.

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Thanks for the reply. I don't want to reuse the original bolts, so would I need to re-hone if I get some ARP bolts?

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Don't know about just using the Arp bolts, but you have a better chance of not having to, vs uising the Studs IMO.

But, your going to measure anyways. You may get lucky as others have stated, Im betting not though, if you use the Studs. Keep us posted as to what you find.

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With your engine I would use the bolts, since that was what it was align honed with. The Studs, because their shank is fatter then the bolts are sure to push those caps out of their alignment. If you want to use the studs, redo the align hone for them.

Im sure your measurements will confirm that. You really don't need the studs though with your combo. But if the blocks still bare, use them and rehone.

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Thanks for the reply. I don't want to reuse the original bolts, so would I need to re-hone if I get some ARP bolts?

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With your engine I would use the bolts, since that was what it was align honed with. The Studs, because their shank is fatter then the bolts are sure to push those caps out of their alignment. If you want to use the studs, redo the align hone for them.

Im sure your measurements will confirm that. You really don't need the studs though with your combo. But if the blocks still bare, use them and rehone.

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Thanks for the reply. I don't want to reuse the original bolts, so would I need to re-hone if I get some ARP bolts?

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With your engine I would use the bolts, since that was what it was align honed with. The Studs, because their shank is fatter then the bolts are sure to push those caps out of their alignment. If you want to use the studs, redo the align hone for them.

Im sure your measurements will confirm that. You really don't need the studs though with your combo. But if the blocks still bare, use them and rehone.

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Thanks for the reply. I don't want to reuse the original bolts, so would I need to re-hone if I get some ARP bolts?

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As long as the ARP bolts are torqued to the same value as the stock bolts , which they would be , not an issue.

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I have installed studs on the mains before and I really don't see how the cap can move a substantial amount after they are "tapped" into place How does the cap know what's holding it in place The only place the cap can move is fore and aft and #3 is the only cap that will really matter on the thrust surface
Gus

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As long as the ARP bolts are torqued to the same value as the stock bolts , which they would be , not an issue.

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I have installed studs on the mains before and I really don't see how the cap can move a "substantial" amount after they are "tapped" into place How does the cap know what's holding it in place The only place the cap can move is fore and aft and #3 is the only cap that will really matter on the thrust surface
Gus

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Gus, John RR, is referring to ARP Bolts.

As far as the Cap moving with Studs. With a Wider shank of the stud, depending on how accurate the holes are drilled/indexed in the cap, the cap can be moved/nudged toward the crank.

I don't think the word "Substantial" is the correct word to use here A .001 bump on each side of the cap towards the crank for a total loss of .002 clearance is enough to screw things up. That is a Small amount, not a Substantial amount, but enough to screw things up. Enough to cause Substantial problems though

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With your engine I would use the bolts, since that was what it was align honed with. The Studs, because their shank is fatter then the bolts are sure to push those caps out of their alignment. If you want to use the studs, redo the align hone for them.

Im sure your measurements will confirm that. You really don't need the studs though with your combo. But if the blocks still bare, use them and rehone.

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Thanks for the reply. I don't want to reuse the original bolts, so would I need to re-hone if I get some ARP bolts?

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As long as the ARP bolts are torqued to the same value as the stock bolts , which they would be , not an issue.

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I have installed studs on the mains before and I really don't see how the cap can move a substantial amount after they are "tapped" into place How does the cap know what's holding it in place The only place the cap can move is fore and aft and #3 is the only cap that will really matter on the thrust surface
Gus

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With your engine I would use the bolts, since that was what it was align honed with. The Studs, because their shank is fatter then the bolts are sure to push those caps out of their alignment. If you want to use the studs, redo the align hone for them.

Im sure your measurements will confirm that. You really don't need the studs though with your combo. But if the blocks still bare, use them and rehone.

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Thanks for the reply. I don't want to reuse the original bolts, so would I need to re-hone if I get some ARP bolts?

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As long as the ARP bolts are torqued to the same value as the stock bolts , which they would be , not an issue.

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I have installed studs on the mains before and I really don't see how the cap can move a substantial amount after they are "tapped" into place How does the cap know what's holding it in place The only place the cap can move is fore and aft and #3 is the only cap that will really matter on the thrust surface
Gus

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It has nothing to do with the caps moving ... the caps are located in the block by the register step in the block ... studs are torqued to a different value than bolts ... HIGHER ... this higher value can/will distort the main bores ... make them not round.

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that's why you go with better bolts or studs to start with - for the additional clamping power - which of course you would defeat by using the same torque spec as the factory bolts. As said, only real way is to measure, but why pay for better stuff if you are not going to utilize it. If I remember correctly, factory main bolts = 90 ft lbs. ARP studs = 105 ft lbs. Those are recommended torque specs. 15 additional lbs will most likely require remachining the bores. If the OP is trying to stay away from remachining costs, maybe a new set of factory bolts would be a good compromise .

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With your engine I would use the bolts, since that was what it was align honed with. The Studs, because their shank is fatter then the bolts are sure to push those caps out of their alignment. If you want to use the studs, redo the align hone for them.

Im sure your measurements will confirm that. You really don't need the studs though with your combo. But if the blocks still bare, use them and rehone.

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Thanks for the reply. I don't want to reuse the original bolts, so would I need to re-hone if I get some ARP bolts?

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As long as the ARP bolts are torqued to the same value as the stock bolts , which they would be , not an issue.

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I have installed studs on the mains before and I really don't see how the cap can move a substantial amount after they are "tapped" into place How does the cap know what's holding it in place The only place the cap can move is fore and aft and #3 is the only cap that will really matter on the thrust surface
Gus

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It has nothing to do with the caps moving ... the caps are located in the block by the register step in the block ... studs are torqued to a different value than bolts ... HIGHER ... this higher value can/will distort the main bores ... make them not round.

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So just to be clear you guys have actually measured the bore after you installed studs and and torqued the caps an aditional 15 pounds and could actually measure the distortion of the cap
This claim wil go into the trash with laying a crankshaft on it's side will ruin it More excuses for an engine builder when he has one that scattered
Gus