Well I went out to fire the car up today and it wont fire. Plugged the laptop in and it has a fault for all 8 coils. I changed the timing curve earlier in the week but never started the car WTF I unplugged the coils and I am getting 12v on the red wire at each coil anyone have any ideas?

Ok so I called MSD I turned the waste spark off as the instructions suggest for the 88864 harness and MSD is saying it should be on anyone with this harness care to share the setup you have when I had it running earlier last week all the settings were factory settings I changed the map curve to 0 not using a map and the timing curve.

I can tell you when I get home Dave. I'll swear the waste spark is off.

Mine is also turned off and I don't use the map sensor either-Steve

I don't own one. Having said that, I looked at the two harnesses online and it appears the only difference, beyond coil connectors, is the brown jumper on the 88864. So the 88863 is for a waste spark application, the 88864 is for non waste spark. I think it goes like this: On the 88864 because of the jumper, the system will not do the waste spark. If you ALSO turn off the waste spark in the computer, there should be no difference. But, on the 88863 harness there is no brown jumper and the system is set up for waste spark, because that was stock. If you wish to turn off the waste spark, you have to turn it off in the computer.

Make sense?

In general, when making modifications, when the item stops working, one undoes or redoes the last thing changed. What was the last thing you changed?

R.

OK from the beginning I installed the 6013 did the engine conversion I primed it with my accusump never plugged the computer into the MSD my wife was helping me to turn switches on check for leaks and such I told her to crank it just to check starter circuit and it fired on a half a crank so I let it run a few minutes got some heat in it shut it off and then my computer wouldn't communicate (bad USB adapter) so after getting another adapter last week I read the MSD manual where it said to turn waste spark off I did I also changed the timing curve and zeroed the map curve as I am not using a map. The car would then not start and I got coil fault codes so I called MSD today they said turn the waste spark on I did tried to crank it and it backfired so bad (carb&exhaust that my wife thought a gun went off in the shop so here I am now no clue the min timing is set to 10 and max 24

You didn't accidently change the reluctor wheel count did you?? 32 tooth for the early and 58 for the late..

I posted on your other post

For the 88864 - waste spark is set to 'off'

Did you also cut the brown wire 'loop' as you are sposed to?


I also posted a 'safe' tune.

Well I finally got to the bottom of my no start turns out it was not an ignition issue the pin on the cam broke and allowed the cam to spin on the gear and..............bent every friggin intake valve so I have it apart and for the life of me I can't figure out how the pin broke it ran fine must have happened as I shut it off then of course cranking the crap out of it didn't help crazy thing is it didn't crank like it had no compression

Is that a Isky Cam? If so I have had at least, years ago before switching to using Comp Cams because of Iskys problem on them, two or more single bolt Isky BB cams have the dang pin work its way out and fall into the oil pan Let us know please BTW was the cam bolt loose when you took it apart? If so maybe that caused the breakage to satrt with, if it is broken in two parts

Cam bolt was tight the gear fit the end of the cam perfect oh well I am out of money at this point I am going to call the cam manufacture in the morning and see if they man up I don't want to bash them if they make it right.

Well that sure sucks.... bummer

Well still have not figured out why the cam pin broke I have checked all the following again
1.Piston to valve .160 on the intake
2.Coil bind .065
3.Retainer to guide .070
cam gear fit the cam perfect I have had about enough thinking about selling all this crap

I had a Comp Cam do that years ago. I had bought everything from Herb McCandless. I called him and told him what happened. He told me to send him the cam and lifters(in order as run on cam). He warranted the cam/lifters and sent me the newer version of his cam(the .650") that was a 3 bolt set-up, a push rod kit, all gaskets and the timing chain to go with it...FREE!!
He would have replaced the valves, but I told him that they were stock valves and I had plenty of them. He also told me later that after he got mine, he got 3 more calls with the same problem. He told me he would not sell any more single bolt cams again!! You might call your part supplier and see if they will give you any help.

Well they blamed me and said I must have done something wrong. They did however out of the kindness of their heart tell me to send it back and they would check and fix my cam for free as long as I paid the shipping I wish someone made a 3 bolt cam I would own one

Cab it is a gen 3 Hemi no one makes one yet that I can find

I bough a core stock 5.7 hemi that did the same thing. It sheared the cam key and bent the valves. Upon disassembly I noticed that the front cam bearing had turned approximately 90* in the block. The cam had tried to seize to the cam bearing. All of the other bearings looked ok though, including the rods and mains. It is my understanding that this is common with these engines. You might consider popping the cam out if you haven't pulled it out already. Inspect the cam journals and also check to see if the bearings line up with the oil holes.