Re: Neat Article on A W2 Small Block
[Re: Street Monkies]
#1729898
01/14/15 10:00 PM
01/14/15 10:00 PM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972 Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
Master
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Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
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I have a 416 W-2 in my Rampage thats close to that.. his heads flow about 10cfm more than mine.. my compression is 10.4 and my cam is 260/270 .640/.640 on a 105 lsa installed at 105... mine made 590hp/530tq.. this was a throw together much like his.. I just put fuel injection on it and fired it the other day... still have to get it on the road for it to learn the fuel mapping.. last summer was fun with it.. once I get it running good I'm gonna put my W-5 set up on ![](/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wave.gif)
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Re: Neat Article on A W2 Small Block
[Re: MR_P_BODY]
#1729900
01/14/15 10:43 PM
01/14/15 10:43 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,991 new jersey usa
11secdart
master
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master
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,991
new jersey usa
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I`ve always liked my ancient W2`s, I bought them used well over twenty years ago and am still using them, first on a 340 with 12 1/2 to 1 comp. and a 627 lift roller cam made 527 hp and went 10.70s in my Dart, next was a 360 crate short block, hypertectic pistons, cast crank and stock rods, 590 lift mech. cam, 11 1/2 to 1 comp made 535 hp and again went 10.70s and finally my current combo the same 360 block 30 over. JE pistons, Eagle rods and a M/P steel crank and the same cam and comp ratio made 550 hp and has gone 10.40's, the heads are just cleaned up a little , with a Victor W2 intake, I know more port work could have been done and we always knew a roller cam would have woke it right up as well as roller rockers as I am still running the ductile iron non roller rockers. It worked well for over 800 runs and seven years but is getting a little tired and will be replaced soon with a 408.
Last edited by 11secdart; 01/14/15 10:46 PM.
68 Dart 410 / 904 92 D150 original owner 21 Ram 1500 Quad Cab, Big Horn , Hemi ,4x4 23 Audi Q5 16 Honda HRV
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Re: Neat Article on A W2 Small Block
[Re: Street Monkies]
#1729901
01/14/15 10:44 PM
01/14/15 10:44 PM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972 Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
Master
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Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
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Quote:
Interesting combos guy's. That build was geared towards max effort but also was mild in several ways with cam, and cr. That's still making a lot of steam and I'd be questioning where cracks might start to show up on the block lol.
I've got a W-2 engine that made 620hp at 8200 rpm.. that block cracked a cyl wall twice.. same cyl.. it was suggested that the MSD was banging that cyl all the time.. I quit using the 2 step and didnt crack anymore ![](/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wave.gif)
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Re: Neat Article on A W2 Small Block
[Re: Street Monkies]
#1729904
01/15/15 02:47 AM
01/15/15 02:47 AM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972 Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
Master
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Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
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Quote:
Nice dart. That's a good running combo. The lighter pistons must of helped that thing out a lot. I got my W2s used as well. Need to do some touch up porting. It is set up for the 2.080" intake valves. But there isn't any porting done to the heads. My intake manifold is coming along with the porting though. I'll do the heads as well.
Both sets of W-2s I have are the econo heads.. 1 set is the long valve with the 2.00" installed height and the other is the standard 1.88" installed height.. on my old set I cut them like the artical.. I think I cut .090 off the deck of them.. that didnt leave a lot on the intake side for the valve cover gasket but they sealed... I put 2.08 intakes in all of the sets ![](/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wave.gif)
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Re: Neat Article on A W2 Small Block
[Re: MR_P_BODY]
#1729905
01/15/15 10:31 AM
01/15/15 10:31 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,892 Weddington, N.C.
Streetwize
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,892
Weddington, N.C.
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Inside of mine.
We used the offset cup MRL lifters which helped straighten-out the intake pushrod angle quite a bit.
Last edited by Streetwize; 01/15/15 10:43 AM.
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Re: Neat Article on A W2 Small Block
[Re: Street Monkies]
#1729908
01/15/15 02:51 PM
01/15/15 02:51 PM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972 Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
Master
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Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
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Quote:
What's the offset on the lifter Streetwize? I see it has the crossover oiling to the galleries. I see the oiling holes above the cam aren't filled like they did in article. Did you use block filler with this block and how much power did it make? Nice build, Thanks.
I dont normally seal off those oil returns in the valley but I do cover them with screen so any parts cant go down through there... on my R block it is a dry sump block and the valley is closed off so it has a suction line in the valley... I do the cross over on some of my blocks.. I cant say it helped.. on one I did it on it spun a rod bearing.. I had 2 engines that were identical with the same specs and all, but the one had the cross over.. the other didnt.. the one with the cross over had the bearing issue ![](/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shruggy.gif) ![](/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wave.gif)
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Re: Neat Article on A W2 Small Block
[Re: Street Monkies]
#1729910
01/15/15 06:00 PM
01/15/15 06:00 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,892 Weddington, N.C.
Streetwize
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,892
Weddington, N.C.
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The main purpose of the cross-over (somebody correct me if I'm wrong) is that it really only comes into play if you lose the primary feed to the main by having a lifter fail (ex loosing a pushrod or dropping a valve and the lifter hanging up in the valley)and exposing everything downstream of that lifter to potentially zero oil pressure. A bypass line is essentially a parallel circuit, a back up route to feed the mains/rods just in case the primary route is lost.
Under normal operation you'll never really see any benefit to it, it's a cheap insurance policy.
I presume that Mr P's particular bearing failure was probably due to some other issue where the bypass line either didn't come in to play or didn't make the problem any better....or worse.
I only put it in in case I wound up swapping this motor into the Rocky or some other toy at some point.
As for pushrods, straighter is better and the pushrod clearance tunnel outside the port wall was getting pretty thin after bridgeporting it the first go around. I wanted to try the priority oiling MRLs' anyway and try to make the smaller offset BB rockers work (they straighten up both the intake and exhaust as it turned out and I used 2 different pushrod lengths.), so the offset was only a 20.00 upgrade.
Last edited by Streetwize; 01/15/15 06:05 PM.
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Re: Neat Article on A W2 Small Block
[Re: Streetwize]
#1729911
01/15/15 06:14 PM
01/15/15 06:14 PM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972 Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
Master
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Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
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Quote:
The main purpose of the cross-over (somebody correct me if I'm wrong) is that it really only comes into play if you lose the primary feed to the main by having a lifter fail (ex loosing a pushrod or dropping a valve and the lifter hanging up in the valley)and exposing everything downstream of that lifter to potentially zero oil pressure. A bypass line is essentially a parallel circuit, a back up route to feed the mains/rods just in case the primary route is lost.
Under normal operation you'll never really see any benefit to it, it's a cheap insurance policy.
I presume that Mr P's particular bearing failure was probably due to some other issue where the bypass line either didn't come in to play or didn't make the problem any better....or worse.
I only put it in in case I wound up swapping this motor into the Rocky or some other toy at some point.
As for pushrods, straighter is better and the pushrod clearance tunnel outside the port wall was getting pretty thin after bridgeporting it the first go around. I wanted to try the priority oiling MRLs' anyway and try to make the smaller offset BB rockers work (they straighten up both the intake and exhaust as it turned out and I used 2 different pushrod lengths.), so the offset was only a 20.00 upgrade.
I thought it got the oil there quicker(I dont know by how much) and it did what you are saying... I dont know what the true cause was on my issue... I put a new rod in the SAME package.. cross over and all.. it ran fine.. and I think it will again(I have that block in the shop and was eye-balling it today while I was cleaning in the shop)... I could slap that engine back together today if I needed it..... I read a artical on the cross over years ago but I forget the jest of it but it did sound logical so I tried it... prior to that I never did it ![](/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wave.gif)
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Re: Neat Article on A W2 Small Block
[Re: MR_P_BODY]
#1729912
01/15/15 07:56 PM
01/15/15 07:56 PM
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,776 Ontario Canada
MattW
master
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master
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,776
Ontario Canada
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Quote:
Quote:
The main purpose of the cross-over (somebody correct me if I'm wrong) is that it really only comes into play if you lose the primary feed to the main by having a lifter fail (ex loosing a pushrod or dropping a valve and the lifter hanging up in the valley)and exposing everything downstream of that lifter to potentially zero oil pressure. A bypass line is essentially a parallel circuit, a back up route to feed the mains/rods just in case the primary route is lost.
Under normal operation you'll never really see any benefit to it, it's a cheap insurance policy.
I presume that Mr P's particular bearing failure was probably due to some other issue where the bypass line either didn't come in to play or didn't make the problem any better....or worse.
I only put it in in case I wound up swapping this motor into the Rocky or some other toy at some point.
As for pushrods, straighter is better and the pushrod clearance tunnel outside the port wall was getting pretty thin after bridgeporting it the first go around. I wanted to try the priority oiling MRLs' anyway and try to make the smaller offset BB rockers work (they straighten up both the intake and exhaust as it turned out and I used 2 different pushrod lengths.), so the offset was only a 20.00 upgrade.
I thought it got the oil there quicker(I dont know by how much) and it did what you are saying... I dont know what the true cause was on my issue... I put a new rod in the SAME package.. cross over and all.. it ran fine.. and I think it will again(I have that block in the shop and was eye-balling it today while I was cleaning in the shop)... I could slap that engine back together today if I needed it..... I read a artical on the cross over years ago but I forget the jest of it but it did sound logical so I tried it... prior to that I never did it
From what I read and I'm going from memory, is that the cross over tube was for high rpm applications anything over 7000 rpms. At that level the oil had a hard time making the 90deg turn and would cavitate the rods ![](/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shruggy.gif) Matt
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Re: Neat Article on A W2 Small Block
[Re: MattW]
#1729913
01/15/15 08:05 PM
01/15/15 08:05 PM
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 22,732 Bitopia
jcc
If you can't dazzle em with diamonds..
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If you can't dazzle em with diamonds..
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 22,732
Bitopia
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That is what read, high speed oil making the 90 degree turn issue.
Reality check, that half the population is smarter then 50% of the people and it's a constantly contested fact.
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Re: Neat Article on A W2 Small Block
[Re: jcc]
#1729914
01/15/15 08:22 PM
01/15/15 08:22 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,892 Weddington, N.C.
Streetwize
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,892
Weddington, N.C.
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Is that really the case? probably more critical on a 360 then due to the bigger mains. To get to the end of the circuit (i.e. the rods) you gotta push oil through the mains, Most rod bearing siezures/failures happen because they are at 'the end of the line' (circuit before returning to the pan) and they are starved for oil. the very first one I put in was on an AMC 401 and this was close to 35 yrs ago now. On an AMC it's more or less mandatory to get oil to the mains at high RPM and maybe in (what's left of) my mind I presumed it was for the same reason. Of course on an AMC the oil pump housing is cast into the aluminum timing cover.... ![](/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif)
Last edited by Streetwize; 01/15/15 08:35 PM.
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