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So anyways, why wouldn't having a separate power and ground buss for the race car stuff not work? So far that MSD seems to be happy the way it is.

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Like this in the picture, except not grounded to the chassis... The rest of the stuff like fans, water pump, fuel pumps, lumped in with the car stuff like lights. BTW, this is kinda how the car is wired now and the box sticking into the space a passenger's legs would normally go is a hassle.

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I have all that between the seat but I think that could go under the glove box with a hinge to swing down access.

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So anyways, why wouldn't having a separate power and ground buss for the race car stuff not work? So far that MSD seems to be happy the way it is.

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Like this in the picture, except not grounded to the chassis... The rest of the stuff like fans, water pump, fuel pumps, lumped in with the car stuff like lights. BTW, this is kinda how the car is wired now and the box sticking into the space a passenger's legs would normally go is a hassle.

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I have all that between the seat but I think that could go under the glove box with a hinge to swing down access.

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That is exactly what I was thinking of doing!

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I stuck my new plug wires on the ohm meter. Going through the cap and wire I can see a big difference between the Taylor's and Fire cores.
I went with the HEI style cap lugs, (male) over the mopar style (female)
The Taylor's were 1.4 ohms

Fire cores were .13 ohms.

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One thing you need to remember on how the spark travels down the spark plug wires and how your testing the conductor that carrys the spark, electricity, (the ohm meter uses it low voltage internal battery to conduct the ohm test with minimal voltage) will always take the easiest path that will carry the load. The ohm test is testing the easeist path with very low voltage and almost no amps You should probally take the connectors off of each end of the spark plug wires and test the inner graphite nylon core that the ignition spark will travel down to the the spark plug, not the tiny outer stainless wires that the spark won't travel due to it having a lot higher restitance than the inner core, when new, do to the overall length. Spark plug wires wear out with use, the higher the resitance to the spark the faster they wear out I've seen the inner graphite coating burnt off of the nylon centers on the early radio suppression spark plug wires that didn't have the outer stainless wire wrapped around them like a lot of the new Hi Po wires for racing have now I had a miss that had affected the three shorter wires,#4,6 and 8, on the passenger side of my old 440 powered bracket Duster. It would start to miss the last three hundred feet of the 1/4 mile,those plugs look a litle different, not fouled, but not as clean as the rest of the plugs. I ohmed the wires and found those three wires where not testing like the rest of the wires and took them apart to find out why Be careful when it comes to racing and trouble shooting, it can drive you absolutely nuts

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I stuck my new plug wires on the ohm meter. Going through the cap and wire I can see a big difference between the Taylor's and Fire cores.
I went with the HEI style cap lugs, (male) over the mopar style (female)
The Taylor's were 1.4 ohms

Fire cores were .13 ohms.

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Comparing apples and oranges. Doesn't have anything to do with which wire is best. You can use an ohm test with wires of the same Mfg. Obviously the longer wires will test a little higher than the shorter ones, but what you are looking for is one wire that is way out of wack. What hurts wires is heat, improper removal, Lots of on and off the plugs ( especially when they are still hot ). I only used heat jacketed wires. I use lots of dielectric grease inside the plug boots, use a boot puller when I can, give the boots a little twist to break them loose from the plug before I tug on them, never pull on the wire to remove them and try not to remove/install them hot when I can. I like HEI style caps, keep the wires separated as much as possible, and don't run any other wiring near them. I do use the chasis for a ground on my non-electronic race car.

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Applied some of my Moparts/Monte Smith learned knowledge on my engines ground strategy today. Also went ahead and routed my charge wire from the alternator in 4/0 AWG. I feel more confident the chances of a bunch of electrical gremlins wont get me this go around.

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Today I made this for my grounds to run too. Since I ran most of the grounds back to the Battery, I'm going to run this in the trunk and tie it to the battery with a welding lead.and ground everything here.

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Ok I'm going to ask the most ridiculous questions on here, what is "noise" - "shielding" ? There's more but I'll start here.

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