So I know this guy who has some questions... OK, so I have some questions. I have a 78 RC and the roof was sealed to the tub when it was repainted. What do I mean? It looks like the painter caulked the gap between the roof and the top of the bed rail (highlighted area in pic). Obviously, I want to remedy this. The other problem is that there are now a few spots of rust bubbles near the seam, both on the roof and tub. There shouldn't be any rust-through, but it needs to be addressed. I want to remove the caulk, separate the roof and tub, and fix them both. I know y'all can't see much, but let's assume I need to fix the entire length of both the roof and tub on both sides. How much filler, primer, paint, reducer, and hardener should I buy? Is a quart of paint too much? I'll have access to a paint shop and knowledgeable staff when I get back to the States next year. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Happy Holidays, y'all!

It sounds like a typical "small" body project... not too much in supplies but some time. A quart of paint and primer should be plenty. If it was re-painted in single stage as original, acrylic enamel would be best. Or base/clear if that was used for the re-paint. The paint supplier will give the mix and amount of reducer required. Add a quart of grease and wax remover plus a gallon of inexpensive lacquer thinner for clean up.

Once separated, some quality time with a wire wheel will get the goop off and you can see what is underneath. If it is surface rust (hopefully) you can treat it with a rust converter then prime with epoxy primer. Once primed you can fill in any pits with bondo (I like "Rage" brand but any will do) and re-prime. For final priming/smoothing on small projects I have used Rustoleum autobody primer in spray bomb with good results or get an additional quart of "2k primer/surfacer". If its base/clear, I have also used Rustoleum clear for small projects.

I'd suggest a contingency plan in case you find any rust through... a welder or a friend with one. If you wind up doing some welding, a first coat of waterproof filler will seal the welds. I use "metal to metal" bondo or JB weld for the first fill then regular bondo.

I have used TCP Global/Autocolor library.com for paint and supplies. Their house brand "Restoration Shop" paint is good. Link below for window shopping.

http://www.autocolorlibrary.com/

Thanks for the reply. I'm on orders to Ft. Riley, KS, and there is a very large auto shop there with welders, a body shop, and a paint booth. Plus, they have experienced people to help newbs like me complete a task like this. I'd like to do it myself because bodywork is exceedingly expensive. Not only that, but I'd also like to gain the knowledge to do it myself. I have a few other things that need attention. If I have to cut any rust out, I'll just go cut patch panels from a truck in a junkyard or fab some at work. I have the blessing of working directly with sheetmetal fabricators, and I have all of their tools at my disposal for free.

Or maybe this -

Ft Riley would be Army I think? Take care and good luck with your project on your return!

My Daughter is Navy and deployed near Indonesia. Her husband, also Navy just got back from Afghanistan.