This is a V8 manual 4X4.
I'm hoping it is something useful for the daily drive, a bit of off-roading (dirt roads around here, not rock crawling) and pulling the projects around in the yard.
Any common issues to look for?
It's got the typical paint problems and a few dents, I'm more concerned about ugly drivetrain and suspension faults.
Oh, and the wheels and tires have got to go!

Upper and lower ball joints go bad often. Hub assemblies on my 98 were changed 4 times in 9 years. Valley pan leak on intake. Check for rust between lower part of front fender below V8 badge and front bumper, rockers, and bed wheel wells. That's all I can think of off top of my head. Good luck. They are good trucks. Mine had 225k on it when I sold it. Should have kept it.

Thanks!
I've been searching since this wasn't getting many replies, and the ball joint thing is the most often mentioned.
I also found this thread
http://dakotaforumz.com/showthread.php?t=1413

Seems there are a bunch of different Dakota forums, with half or more filled with useless garbage spewed out by newbies and trolls.
Ya gotta read some posts to find out if the answers should even be considered! That's why I post on Moparts; great people with real answers!

I have a 98 Dakota 5.2 auto. I replaced the ball joints and brakes and battery because they were worn out. I have not had any problems with the truck except for a ECU failure caused by a faulty Hypertech tuner. I have raced it for a season and a half and it's also my daily driver. I would trust it to go anywhere. It's very comfortable to drive.

Thanks Stumpy!
I ended up buying it and stopping at the local yard on the way back!
Got a VSS, hitch, driver mirror and front driveshaft.
The DS came from a Durango and is too long, gotta take it back. Also need to get the wheels I pulled, the place closed too soon to go back for them.

Issues so far seem to be a bad VSS (speedo jumps), rear brakes need adjusting or replacement (very weak E brake), Thermostat (runs at 130) and the main issue - both front tires are worn on the outer edge, pulls left and the L inner tie rod is loose. Will have to dig a bit deeper into the front and get it sorted, but overall happy. It drives nice and all the electrical stuff works.
It's a bit too small for me, but I'll either make changes or adjust.

Mine is the extended cab, and there is HEAPS of space in there! I've only had mine since the end of September, and the only trouble I have is a major power steering leak. I have found the problem, and I have bought eh parts to fix it, I just need time to do it. At 162,000 miles on it, it still drives beautifully! I'm glad I bought it! And it's still clean for a Wisconsin truck!

I have over 260000 miles on my 97 5.2 2wd. Been one the best trucks I've ever owned.
The ball joints are shot before they leave the factory according to Moog.
They also had a defective intake/plenum gasket.
Heater core may be plugged up too which is a common problem.
If it a CA truck it probably won't have any rust. Mine has 260K Colorado miles and is rust free.

BTW, it's a 97, not a 98.

Heater does work, but with low temp coolant it isn't very efficient.

This one is a std cab, so the seat doesn't go back far enough for someone my size.
Also gotta do something with the headliner, it's got the 'droops'.

I know about the plenum base plate. I've gotta do that in my 02 van. This one has no idle misfire or DTCs, so that shouldn't be needed yet.

Glad to hear these go a long time. This one's got 140K, so I've been told it's time to swap out main and rod bearings. A friend who helped look it over and drive my other van back has done this in other V8 and V10s at this mileage when the oil pressure drops. Everything else internally seems to hold up fine.

The wheels I found are the "U" spoke wheels.
Gotta go get them in the morning. They will need tires of course, and are missing the center cover.

Ive never heard of them needing bearings at 140k. Maybe at 240k.

Mines has 260K on original motor and tranny. Even still has the factory U-joints. The rear main seal just started leaking last year.

For better heat you may need to take the heater hoses loose and run water from the garden hose through the core both directions until the water runs clear. It's easiest to take the hoses off at the engine side rather than the heater core.

Will do!

It doesn't get over 135 degrees F and has now set a DTC for not warming up fast enough.

The thermostat is either missing or stuck open. I'll flush the whole system, then the heater, then replace the thermostat. At least, that's the plan!

Got the stock wheels today, along with a set of Corbeau seats I hope give me a bit more room.

Hung the hitch, cleaned the throttle body and AIS, replaced the VSS (good now) and did some cleaning.

Nice little truck. Reg cab, short box, stick shift v8. I wouldn't let that one go