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Re: FORD 8.8 REAR................
[Re: Monte_Smith]
#1702664
12/03/14 05:17 AM
12/03/14 05:17 AM
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 781
MD
HEMI472
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 781
MD
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a dana 30 was great for what it was designed for. a hemi car or a 440 six pack car is not a hd truck. ok I got you the nine inch was only good for a stock car but the dana 60 was good for cars ands hd trucks up to 4 tons. it look like the dana is better to me lol
Last edited by HEMI472; 12/03/14 05:21 AM.
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Re: FORD 8.8 REAR................
[Re: slantzilla]
#1702666
12/03/14 08:28 AM
12/03/14 08:28 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 32,394
Quicktree
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 32,394
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Quote:
Nodular housings could also be found in '70s Grand Marquis and LTD's with 429 and 460 motors. Buddy of mine got bunches of them parting out big boats. 
I found one in a mach 1 mustang one time, bought the whole thing for $200 bucks. fit right in my RR.put a mini spool in it and ran it for years after breaking a few 8-3/4s with the same car.
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Re: FORD 8.8 REAR................
[Re: Quicktree]
#1702667
12/03/14 10:48 AM
12/03/14 10:48 AM
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,776
Ontario Canada
MattW
master
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master
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,776
Ontario Canada
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Here we go again!!!!!!! LOL So the real question is this. How much $$$ does it take to modify an 9 to fit into an A Body? Taking into account you have 650 ft/lbs of torque. Running drag radials and it weights 3200 with driver? Street car and occasional drag. Was on Mark Williams web page and a complete 9 rear was 3700 to 6000  What upgrades do you guys recommend for the above combo? Matt
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Re: FORD 8.8 REAR................
[Re: sdaurity]
#1702669
12/03/14 02:13 PM
12/03/14 02:13 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,131
New Lenox IL
cudadon
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,131
New Lenox IL
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The Buick we currently race in Drag Radial, had a 10 bolt under it when we bought it. The car had run 5.50s with small blocks when we bought it and our big block made it a 5.20 car right off the bat. We ran the 10 bolt until we broke it (which wasn't long). The point was, the car "evolved" from a streeter to a low 5 sec car and the 10 bolt was "good enough" to a point.......then it wasn't.........so in Dom's case, moving from an 8.75 TO an 8.8 under his car........well he may as well light that money on fire, because it will accomplish the same thing.
Monte
Just curious Monte, what rear is in that Buick?
Chromoly 9" sheetmetal Ford housing, with 40 spline gun drilled axles, alum Mark Williams center, with a 3.70 Pro gear and a billet 1350 yoke with a solid joint............expensive? yeah I guess, but high power, hard hooking radial cars will break EVERYTHING. Radial cars are harder on drive line parts by FAR than slick tire cars. That said, we have NEVER broken a single part in the rear...........Several radial guys I know this year were twisting and breaking 40 spline axles. That's how hard these cars can be on parts.
Monte
If thats the case, then move up to a Dana 70, 10.5" ring gear, 35 spline axles, 3.5 tubes with .5 wall thickness, looks like a 60 but on steroids inside! 1401 ujoints and a bunch of ratio's up to 7.17 to 1 Tim
Oh I love getting on here. Twisting 40 spline axles and should go back to 35 spline and add 150 lbs in the process. That is exactly what they should do. I think you should call all the big chassis shops and get them all on board with the dana 70 movement also. You better buy up all the parts they are going to be flying off the shelf. 
Oh No you dare dis the mighty ford dana 
This going to get GOOD! 
Don
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Re: FORD 8.8 REAR................
[Re: MattW]
#1702670
12/03/14 02:21 PM
12/03/14 02:21 PM
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 6,890
North Alabama
Monte_Smith
master
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master
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 6,890
North Alabama
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Quote:
Here we go again!!!!!!! LOL
So the real question is this.
How much $$$ does it take to modify an 9 to fit into an A Body?
Taking into account you have 650 ft/lbs of torque.
Running drag radials and it weights 3200 with driver?
Street car and occasional drag.
Was on Mark Williams web page and a complete 9 rear was 3700 to 6000
What upgrades do you guys recommend for the above combo?
Matt
Properly braced stock type housing will be fine. Use a Nodular center and a good pinion support and you are set. Axles, brakes, spool, gears and all that stuff is a wash for ANY rear you choose. Really the only added extra cost for the Ford is the Nodular center housing and good support. A Nodular steel center can be had for less than $400 and a good support is $180. Also Strange sells complete race ready drop in centers in Nodular iron, with spools, pro-gears and yokes for $1350. The alum version is $1500. Lots of options. Those complete center prices are with PRO gears, so you could get cheaper with a street gear
Monte
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Re: FORD 8.8 REAR................
[Re: HEMI472]
#1702673
12/03/14 03:42 PM
12/03/14 03:42 PM
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Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 4,785
Utah and Alaska
astjp2
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 4,785
Utah and Alaska
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Quote:
a dana 30 was great for what it was designed for. a hemi car or a 440 six pack car is not a hd truck. ok I got you the nine inch was only good for a stock car but the dana 60 was good for cars ands hd trucks up to 4 tons. it look like the dana is better to me lol
UHM, no....the dana 30 was used in the front of AMC Jeep CJ's, Chrysler YJ's and TJ's and IHC Scouts, never in the rear. The Dana 35 was Used in the Rear of the Chrysler products, used C clips and was a piece of garbage that people swap out a Dana 44 for. The 44 was used in every half and some 3/4ton trucks ever sold in the US up until the mid-90's as an optional/available axle. The 60 was put in a few Mopar cars, Some 1/2 ton, most 3/4 ton and a few 1 ton truck from all of the manufacturers up until the mid 90's again. Dana 70's cam in 3/4 ton and up to 1.5 ton trucks....the 80 is even bigger...so while you may have the right idea, be sure of what you know.
I have been around 4x4 vehicles long enough to spot a dana pretty quick. Now an AAM that was put in a GM or Dodge...not so much. More options available for the Dana's to upgrade in the truck world. Most 60 truck internals interchange with the car 60, the only real differences were semi floating axle shafts (some jeep and ford 1/2 tons were semi float) and a mount for a pinion snubber. If you don't need the pinion snubber, then the truck housing will work and not cost a lot.
If someone wants to upgrade to Cromemoly tubes and weld them in, just press out the old and in with the new, then weld. I am personally more worried about the casting flexing than the tubes, but that is from my experience with them in the 4x4 world. a 3.5 inch .500 wall tube takes about 2k horsepower to start bending a tube, the gears would probably spit out long before then without upgrades. I also would build a dana with the Ford Torino ends, there are lost more options for production disc brakes and they were better bearings than came in any 83/4. A Ford 9 is a good axle but most only build them too run right at the edge of almost wanting to break because that is lighter. I run a dana because I never want it to break and don't care about the extra 15-30 lbs. Tim
1941 Taylorcraft
1968 Charger
1994 Wrangler
1998 Wrangler
2008 Kia Rio
2017 Jetta
I didn't do 4 years and 9 months of Graduate School to be called Mister!
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Re: FORD 8.8 REAR................
[Re: astjp2]
#1702674
12/03/14 04:01 PM
12/03/14 04:01 PM
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 6,890
North Alabama
Monte_Smith
master
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master
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 6,890
North Alabama
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Quote:
Quote:
a dana 30 was great for what it was designed for. a hemi car or a 440 six pack car is not a hd truck. ok I got you the nine inch was only good for a stock car but the dana 60 was good for cars ands hd trucks up to 4 tons. it look like the dana is better to me lol
UHM, no....the dana 30 was used in the front of AMC Jeep CJ's, Chrysler YJ's and TJ's and IHC Scouts, never in the rear. The Dana 35 was Used in the Rear of the Chrysler products, used C clips and was a piece of garbage that people swap out a Dana 44 for. The 44 was used in every half and some 3/4ton trucks ever sold in the US up until the mid-90's as an optional/available axle. The 60 was put in a few Mopar cars, Some 1/2 ton, most 3/4 ton and a few 1 ton truck from all of the manufacturers up until the mid 90's again. Dana 70's cam in 3/4 ton and up to 1.5 ton trucks....the 80 is even bigger...so while you may have the right idea, be sure of what you know.
I have been around 4x4 vehicles long enough to spot a dana pretty quick. Now an AAM that was put in a GM or Dodge...not so much. More options available for the Dana's to upgrade in the truck world. Most 60 truck internals interchange with the car 60, the only real differences were semi floating axle shafts (some jeep and ford 1/2 tons were semi float) and a mount for a pinion snubber. If you don't need the pinion snubber, then the truck housing will work and not cost a lot.
If someone wants to upgrade to Cromemoly tubes and weld them in, just press out the old and in with the new, then weld. I am personally more worried about the casting flexing than the tubes, but that is from my experience with them in the 4x4 world. a 3.5 inch .500 wall tube takes about 2k horsepower to start bending a tube, the gears would probably spit out long before then without upgrades. I also would build a dana with the Ford Torino ends, there are lost more options for production disc brakes and they were better bearings than came in any 83/4. A Ford 9 is a good axle but most only build them too run right at the edge of almost wanting to break because that is lighter. I run a dana because I never want it to break and don't care about the extra 15-30 lbs. Tim
We are talking about DRAG RACING, not off road 4x4s. And if you think it takes 2000hp to bend an unsupported 3.5" chromoly axle tube in a drag car, you are sorely mistaken. Has NOTHING to do with power anyway, has to do with TORQUE. In a drag car, while the strength of the center is obviously important to prevent flex and crashing gears, the NUMBER ONE MOST IMPORTANT thing is supporting the tube. I don't care how big a tube you press in that DANA center. You don't support it, you bend it. Period, end of story. And THAT is the reason banjo rears are the obvious choice for a serious race car. Because you can build a BETTER housing. And the lower pinion aside, that some people claim robs power, the 9" Ford is the obvious best choice for this type rear, BECAUSE the pinion is supported on both ends. This being the case, with good parts utilized, makes the center section virtually indestructible. Couple that with a well built housing and you have a rear that is under the baddest door cars on the planet
Monte
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Re: FORD 8.8 REAR................
[Re: astjp2]
#1702675
12/03/14 04:05 PM
12/03/14 04:05 PM
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,978
Hilltown Pa
1967dartgt
master
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master
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,978
Hilltown Pa
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Two different worlds, drag racing and 4x4 trucks. Dead hooking a 1500hp car is a lot harder on parts then a 4x4 spining off road where traction is a minumin. If you think a dana 70 is only 15-30 more pounds then a chromoly housing, aluminum center section 9 inch your crazy.
Brett Miller W9 cnc'd heads
STR Chassis fabraction
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Re: FORD 8.8 REAR................
[Re: Thumperdart]
#1702677
12/03/14 04:29 PM
12/03/14 04:29 PM
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 11,684
W. Kentucky
justinp61
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 11,684
W. Kentucky
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Damn, look what I started............... 
Instigator..........
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Re: FORD 8.8 REAR................
[Re: CraigS]
#1702682
12/04/14 01:04 AM
12/04/14 01:04 AM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
Master
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Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
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Thumper,what happened to your rearend in the car?
Nothing... he is still running it... but Dom plans
on stepping up the power
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