On my 70 RR

I got all my lights to work after a resto issue of more paint inside the body than OEM. Then changed all bulbs to LED for the amp load drop, a little extra insurance added to the M&H.

Just recently lost the brake lights function, and traced that to a loose rivet on the flasher switch in the column. I had current up the column connections but not back down throw the brown & green wires (right colors iirc). Appears that the little lug that transfers current over to another rivet got a little warm and melted down into the plastic housing making the rivet/contact to the right loose. I don't believe this melt is recent. Not enough amps with the LEDs. Just the side effects of incandescent days finally showing up.


When I was test lighting for this I bumped the blinker pivot bolt while touching the red wire just left of it and it sparked. It may be just a coincidence, but after that my blinkers will light up but not blink.



So I said "that's nice, no brakes,...now manual blinkers"

So I went back to the flasher switch, took a needle nose pliers and mashed the rivet just enough till it makes contact for the LED brake lights to work.
Then noticed the flasher switch is old and warn to the point that just touching the button in its off position will open the circuit for the brake lights. Try'n to save the original button is no looking good.

So I bought a blinker/flasher switch with concerns about filing the button to fit the column slot and noticed the lug is attached to a different rivet.
Making me think that the new flasher's off position may be "in" & not out like the original.

Plugged the new switch in and the flashers are on with dash indicators. So I push the button in & the dash indicators go off, but the exterior lights are still flashing. So, I say "that's nice", and put my foot on the brake & get rear brake lights but not sure how to take that.
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Alec,....Uhhh for the moment, ...back to the original switch plate for 200.

I have a LED flasher in the harness. I don't see it working for the flash but sticking for the turns unless there's another issue has showed up after the "tester" short.

Only clue I have at this point is during flash mode there is a small residue of light in the bulbs between flashes, & that shows up with the light tester on the pink wire rivet iirc. Next I'll run down the pink wire & may find where Murphy just left.


Again before the tester short to the blinker pivot bolt head there was no problems with the blinkers. Has Murphy also visited a ground in the blinker circuit.

Just for a process of elimination I have another flasher coming.

now brain hurt...

I found Murphy! But he wasn't at the end of the pink wire. He was hiding in his little red house under the dash.


When I went to the shop I first looked at the FSM to trace the pink wire. Found that my thinking was off on the 1 relay for turn & flash, then that rang a bell in memory, Doh!

So I pulled the flasher relay & plugged it in place of the LED blinker relay and wala! peanut-butter & jelly sandwiches.

I did have a thought earlier, "did that spark maybe kill the LED relay". Not saying it did, ...may be just a coinkydink.

Now my ? is, with the key in the auxiliary position, light switch in the off position (no running/marker lights on) should there be a running light on between blinks on that circuit or am I just getting old and forgetful.

I like PB$J samiches, with milk to wash them down.....

One Peanut Butter & Jelly sandwich,...Ah,Ah,Ah

Two Peanut Butter & Jelly sandwiches,...Ah,Ah,Ah

Three Peanut Butter & Jelly sandwiches,...Ah,Ah,Ah