I could not find my old post. So anyway built motor it ate the thrust bearing with in 300 miles and the crank was junk.I had done some checking found out that the -6 fitting I used was restricting the cooler flow and pushing the converter forward so took the tranny apart and drilled the cooler circuit out to 1/4"NPT to -8 line thought that was fix turns out it didn't. Bought new crank "Scat" got motor back in drove it 100 miles check the end play it has.037 so it too is wearing the bearing again, Well I finally talk to someone the builds a lot of trannys and big block mopars. He ask for all my clearances and when I told him I had 1/8" between converter and flex plate he said that's my problem he has always had 3/16" to a 1/4". I told him my input endplay was .012" he said that too is a problem I need more and yes I looked it up and there should be .036" to .084". I'm working on checking to see if the crank is ok tomorrow if so then I hope to have it running in two weeks so we shall see!

Is the old crank cast iron or forged steel? The reason I'm asking is I've had more than one forged steel crankshaft thrust surface repaired and return to service with good results Lots of gremlins out there, they all live with Mr Murphy and hate car guys

Thanks for that update.

Sheldon

These are both Scat cranks!

Can scat crank be welded up on the thrust surface.

Randy did you get my PM?

Yes I sent you a one back!

Having the same problem. 3 converters, two flexplates. Now I'm doing trans,cooler, lines. .002-.015 in 200 miles no passes. Forged scat sb crank. Should take care of it.

Did some checking and found the pilot snout on the converter is bottoming out before the pads touch the flex, So is this my problem?

in one word yes

Had same problem. Converter hub was bottoming/ballooning out on crank. I put .025 shim between crank and flexplate and .025 shims between flexplate pads and converter. You want as much clearance as possible between converter hub and the crank. With engine out of the car I bolted the converter up with flexplate on and used clay to determine clearance between converter hub and the crank. You could also use a small wad of aluminum foil to determine clearance. Without the shims it had ZERO clearance. Solved my problem...hope this helps..

That should help. While my crank was out i had in machined for more clearance for the converter hub, but it still bottomed out. Sometimes aftermarket cranks and converters don't fit together right. I always check the clearance if im trying a a diff converter. Tearing out thrust bearings SUX!!!

Did some checking today and found that there is a .40''gap between converter pads and flex plate so the snout needs to be cut down .100 to get my clearance and hope this fixes it.