Good morning guys. The driver's door on my Cuda is about 1/4" low when I close the door and I would like to bump it up a tad.

We took out the wobble with some bushings and pins but I wanted to check with you guys before I start taking hinges loose!

With this model, I don't see anything that looks adjustable but I do see that the top hinge has two bolts that connect to the body. I suspect I can loosen these two bolts and lift the door a nudge and then re-tighten.

Does this sound about right?

Sorry for the basic question, I don't want to loosen things and get the door all out of whack!

Both top and bottom hinges are adjustable. Besides the 2 bolts you see on the outside there are bolts that come through the inside. You will have to remove the kick panel. When I do it I loosen all but one bottom bolt, lift the door then retighten one top bolt to see what I have gained. Don't forget to loosen the stricker on the pillar post as it could pull the door down.

I've found sometimes you have to adjust it up a little higher than you would think for it to settle in where you want it. These are heavier than most doors.

From my experience adjusting the doors on my 70 challenger earlier this spring, you must have ALL hinge to door, and hinge to body bolts TIGHT, before your door is where it is going to be!!! Just my
Main rule, BE PATIENT

jess

One more thing, if you read the service manual, it states that the striker should be adjusted so that it raises the door slightly to bring it flush with the 1/4 panel.

Remember, when adjusting the door hight be sure to remove the striker! The door must close & lineup without assistance. The striker is ONLY there to keep the door shut & to get the door aligned flush with the quarter panel. Also note that the gap from the rocker to the bottom door edge should be equal, not on a pitch. That is if the car was never wrecked or have had a "hack" install quarters. I could go on but, I think you will get the idea.

So if I understand this correctly, I need to remove the kick panel and insulation and I should see some hinge bolts. I also need to loosen the striker. Once I have the door protected and supported then I can start to loosen the bolts (from inside the car behind the kick panel?) leaving one bottom bolt tight. I can probably look at the paint to make sure I have lifted the door the amount needed then crank down the bolts and softly work the door.

Once I am happy with everything, tighten the striker, crank down the bolts tight and reinstall the kick panel.

Sound close?

That should get you there. Keep an eye on door to fender gap so you don't chip the paint. Moving the top hinge forward just a little will make a big difference. Good luck, it isn't as hard as it sounds. You may not be able to actually see the heads of the bolts on the inside, you may just have to feel for them.

Start by adjusting the striker up some. You may not have to adjust the hinges. A misadjusted striker will pull the door down when closing.

A few thoughts others have'nt touched apon...When you rebuilt the hinges did you take them off the car ???{I'm thinking not if you're asking where the bolts are} The reason I ask is the factory shot sealer between the hinges and the body which in turn set up after the adjustment process was done...The sealer could prevent you from adjusting the hinges any substantial amount...Try adjusting first but if it seems tight and won't move the sealer needs to come out...

Next, don't just get in there and loosen up the bolts with a painted car you need to take precautions so the door does'nt drop,slide or move and chip the paint..Anything to keep the door from touching the other panels is good...Tape,masking paper etc...

You need to support the {open}door until you get the adjustment close... Something like a floor jack and a piece of wood under the door FRAME not the actual door bottom...You'll never hold the door by grabbing it for adjustments...

And don't forget to mark the hinges with a pencil as a starting point and go from there...

Thanks for the post. I will tackle this on the weekend and great tip about supporting the door frame and not the skin.

You have saved me a ton of heartache already.

Thanks again guys.

I just want to thank the poster and the responders for this thread. I had just grown to accept my doors being difficult to open and disturbingly loud to close. :-) There's hope after all.