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Re: muriatic acid bath! [Re: HEMIDOG 70] #1668747
09/09/14 12:53 AM
09/09/14 12:53 AM
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ademon Offline
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I've used wood bleach to take rust off metal parts. 1 tbl spoon per gallon. Worked better when the water is warm, also if you use it in a tub the wood bleach tends to settle at the bottom so stir it up.

Last edited by ademon; 09/09/14 12:55 AM.
Re: muriatic acid bath! [Re: ademon] #1668748
09/09/14 01:18 AM
09/09/14 01:18 AM
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Scott Carl Offline
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Vinegar, an acid, will do the same thing as miratic. Albeit slower but light years safer for you and the environment. I had some tools that were left by my late father that had suffered flood waters following a hurricane. Some were badly rusted, some (the newer ones with chrome plating) not so bad. After soaking overnight, most cleaned up pretty good. The ones that were really bad, I left for an additional overnight soak. the rust was eaten away leaving them with a dark charcoal patina similar to the manifold pictured earlier in this thread. I even had a cresent wrench that was froze up before soaking. After with a shot of wd40, It worked like new. Yeah Miratic acid will take rust off fast but as has been suggested, its a hazardous waste. I don't have any worries pouring vinegar down the drain. Actually helps keep them clear too Disclaimer: I pour it through a funnel lined with cheese cloth to collect the solids. YMMV

Re: muriatic acid bath! [Re: Scott Carl] #1668749
09/09/14 03:08 AM
09/09/14 03:08 AM
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We can go back to this MOPARTS thread that even has pictures

Re: muriatic acid bath! [Re: BSB67] #1668750
09/09/14 09:51 AM
09/09/14 09:51 AM
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but what kind of goop came off in it when it was used for stripping parts?





Iron, and the stuff you were going to scrape off anyways. Once neutralized, no big deal.




Maybe, although the neutralizing itself does little to remove potential heavy metal toxicity, and technically, its far from legal to dump or dispose of haphazardly of any of the waste product.




Virtually everything you stated is incorrect.




We are talking about the location being in the US, in 2014, correct?

Care to stick around and back up that blanket statement?


So do you care to explain to us less informed how a heavy metal is rendered non toxic by a "neutralization"?


Or explain how any involved regulatory agency will turn a blind eye to haphazard disposal of the remnants/byproducts of a unregistered personal metal acid cleaning operation?

And explain how anybody here can tell with certainty what materials, surface or base metal alloys they are removing from a dirty item without any testing?


"When one’s appeal is emotional, it does not matter if there is no substance."
Re: muriatic acid bath! [Re: jcc] #1668751
09/09/14 01:17 PM
09/09/14 01:17 PM
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Better put your tinfoil hat back on and look under the bed for the boogeyman!

There is a heck of a lot of difference between iron and "heavy metals".

Neutralized acid is just that, NEUTRALIZED. It's not acid any more. Where I live the soil is basic, adding acid to the soil can actually make things grow better. In other parts of the US, the soil is acidic. What do you thing forms when dead leaves soak in a puddle of water? Tannic acid. What do you think when pure rainwater falls through the air that has some carbon dioxide in it, as Al Gore is so fond of reminding us? Carbonic acid. Acids and bases occur everywhere in nature.

On the other hand, anyone who dumps the contents of a lead/acid battery is putting more lead into the environment and needs to have a .45 caliber lead injection to make him stop. That's real.

Moparts is the place where everything can be made much more difficult and cost-prohibitive if one listens to all the advice.

R.

Re: muriatic acid bath! [Re: Andrewh] #1668752
09/09/14 01:22 PM
09/09/14 01:22 PM
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the real issue is, how do you get rid of the stuff when you are done?




Dunno if it's been said, but a base neutralizes an acid. ie the baking soda bath.


1972 Cuda 340 4 speed, 2001 Ram CTD 4x4 6 speed, 1970 Duster 408 4 speed, 1996 Ram 5.9 2x4 auto, 1965 Coronet 500
Re: muriatic acid bath! [Re: cdstl] #1668753
09/09/14 01:35 PM
09/09/14 01:35 PM
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while you take out the acid portion by neutralizing, you didn't remove the waste products.

you wouldn't be doing too much damage just soaking iron in it. as it is an iron salt that would form.
but salt is going to be bad for your lawn.

however, would not dump oil in your yard, or grease? because that is the majority of caked on crap.
and honestly I don't know what compounds that would form when combining with the acid.

regardless, it isn't as simple as just neutralizing the acid.
it did react with whatever else you dumped in there forming other compounds.

heavy metals is not relavent here.
it is proper disposal of waste, whatever it is made out of.

we all know better now.
you can go back less than 100 years where it was fine to have x-ray machines in shoe shops.
the argument we have always done it and it never hurt anyone is a bad argument.
we know it can be bad.
so spend a little extra effort to do it right, or don't do it.

Re: muriatic acid bath! [Re: dogdays] #1668754
09/09/14 03:16 PM
09/09/14 03:16 PM
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Quote:

Better put your tinfoil hat back on and look under the bed for the boogeyman!

There is a heck of a lot of difference between iron and "heavy metals".

Neutralized acid is just that, NEUTRALIZED. It's not acid any more. Where I live the soil is basic, adding acid to the soil can actually make things grow better. In other parts of the US, the soil is acidic. What do you thing forms when dead leaves soak in a puddle of water? Tannic acid. What do you think when pure rainwater falls through the air that has some carbon dioxide in it, as Al Gore is so fond of reminding us? Carbonic acid. Acids and bases occur everywhere in nature.

On the other hand, anyone who dumps the contents of a lead/acid battery is putting more lead into the environment and needs to have a .45 caliber lead injection to make him stop. That's real.

Moparts is the place where everything can be made much more difficult and cost-prohibitive if one listens to all the advice.

R.




Your answer did not disappoint me in more ways then you likely would understand, thank you.

And AndrewH, I believe heavy metals are a concern, what the part was plated with and likely removed by the acid, or what alloys were used in the base metal, could become a part of the waste stream, ie cadmium in the plating , chrome in stainless, lead residue inside the exhaust manifold, etc


"When one’s appeal is emotional, it does not matter if there is no substance."
Re: muriatic acid bath! [Re: jcc] #1668755
09/09/14 08:29 PM
09/09/14 08:29 PM
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fredericksburg,va
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All you safety nuts are a hoot. I'm in the wood industry and every day something new comes up that i say "Do What". The last one was safety data sheets on sandpaper. Man is such a terrible animal I guess we just should take the dead pill and be done with us all, or just go live in a cave and pick berries and nuts. We are talking 5 gallons at the most, worst stuff comes out of the air and runs off my roof. Heavy metals, what does it do when it just sets there and rusts? Its all about proportions,parts per million,take that 5 gallons and pour in the ocean,can you measure it? They put muriatic acid and chlorine in pools and your kids drink it, how they doing?

Re: muriatic acid bath! [Re: cudaman1969] #1668756
09/09/14 08:59 PM
09/09/14 08:59 PM
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Quote:

They put muriatic acid and chlorine in pools and your kids drink it, how they doing?




again, this is not the same thing as using it to eat metal and rust away.

PURE HCL in a pool is just going to up the ph a bit. when it disassociates in water, you get H + and CL -
which is not a harmful (in small enough amounts) item causing polution.

Where as the oil and gunk you are taking off these parts, mixing in with the HCL and converting to some sort of salt, CAN be harmful.

And yes, we aren't talking about thousands of pound YOU are generating by your self.
but if every person did it, how much then?

your argument is the same thing that people used in the past to justify poising the environment.
it doesn't hold water.

Now don't take me for an environmental wack job.
I don't care if we burn the planet down.
I don't conserve fuel, water or air.
but I sure don't want to poison myself either if I could help it.

being the guy that baths in irradiated water after a nuke blast because you don't know it is bad for you is one thing.

being the guy that eats rat poison because red dye number 5 doesn't cause cancer anymore is just dumb.

Re: muriatic acid bath! [Re: cudaman1969] #1668757
09/09/14 09:04 PM
09/09/14 09:04 PM
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All you safety nuts are a hoot. I'm in the wood industry and every day something new comes up that i say "Do What". The last one was safety data sheets on sandpaper. Man is such a terrible animal I guess we just should take the dead pill and be done with us all, or just go live in a cave and pick berries and nuts. We are talking 5 gallons at the most, worst stuff comes out of the air and runs off my roof. Heavy metals, what does it do when it just sets there and rusts? Its all about proportions,parts per million,take that 5 gallons and pour in the ocean,can you measure it? They put muriatic acid and chlorine in pools and your kids drink it, how they doing?




Name calling, and you just don't get it.

Next.


"When one’s appeal is emotional, it does not matter if there is no substance."
Re: muriatic acid bath! [Re: jcc] #1668758
09/09/14 10:22 PM
09/09/14 10:22 PM
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fredericksburg,va
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Where as the oil and gunk you are taking off these parts, mixing in with the HCL and converting to some sort of salt, CAN be harmful.

Sounds like you havn't used this before, i have to remove oil,grease, undercoating,"crud" before i dip the part in. I put that stuff on the highway with every other cars " crud". When done i put the acid solution back in plastic containers to use again for the next rusty part, to expensive to throw away. You guys can save the planet, i'll get the rust off my way.

Re: muriatic acid bath! [Re: jcc] #1668759
09/09/14 10:45 PM
09/09/14 10:45 PM
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but what kind of goop came off in it when it was used for stripping parts?





Iron, and the stuff you were going to scrape off anyways. Once neutralized, no big deal.




Maybe, although the neutralizing itself does little to remove potential heavy metal toxicity, and technically, its far from legal to dump or dispose of haphazardly of any of the waste product.




Virtually everything you stated is incorrect.




We are talking about the location being in the US, in 2014, correct?

Care to stick around and back up that blanket statement?


So do you care to explain to us less informed how a heavy metal is rendered non toxic by a "neutralization"?


Or explain how any involved regulatory agency will turn a blind eye to haphazard disposal of the remnants/byproducts of a unregistered personal metal acid cleaning operation?

And explain how anybody here can tell with certainty what materials, surface or base metal alloys they are removing from a dirty item without any testing?




Sure.

First, you need to be clear what heavy metals are you talking about. Carbon steel and cast iron have very very little heavy metals of concern. Do you know what they are and common concentrations in acid baths? Do you know the valences? If you don't, saying things like it's toxic, or hazardous are meaningless statements.

Next, do you know the route of entry? For the very low concentrations of of these metals, in this form, ingestion is the only realistic route of entry. So, I would recommend not eating the stuff, and maybe washing your hands when you are done.

Finally, neutralization IS the treatment technology for the heavy metals that we are talking about. They precipitate and become insoluble hydroxides. To maximize the treatment, raising the pH to about 9.0 with your neutralizing agent will bring these heavey metals near the drinking water standards in the water phase.

If you are talking about acid cleaning long terne coated items (such as fuel tanks) or cadmium plated items, that would certainly be a different story. The concentration in the acid would be higher of a couple heavy metals, but the neutralization would still be effective.

I would not be an advocate of dumping the stuff on the ground, but bagging it up and disposing of it in your trash would be both legal and safe. If there are remaining neutralized liquids, the local POTW can easily manage that as well. If you are a business, you should probably conduct the appropriate leach test for liability reasons as your responsibilities are different than residential/homeowners.

Re: muriatic acid bath! [Re: autoxcuda] #1668760
09/10/14 12:19 AM
09/10/14 12:19 AM
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Omaha, Nebraska
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Quote:

. . While gagging from momentarily opening and closing the ice chest with 3 gallons of 30% Muratic Acid.





I'm no save-the-earth-peta-global-warming's-gonna-be-the-end-of-human-exitance kinda guy myself, but it was this comment above that caused me to respond initially. If you don't care about the environment, at least care about your own body. Those fumes gag you for a reason. They are just as caustic as the liquid. AXC is lucky the outer layer of his eyeballs didn't shrivel up or his sinus linings didn't derust (burn and scar) Hard to drive our Mopars when we can't breathe or see.

Just say'n

Scott

Re: muriatic acid bath! [Re: Scott Carl] #1668761
09/10/14 01:14 PM
09/10/14 01:14 PM
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Posts: 14,889
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One wonders were some of you dispose of your oil filters?

Those definitely do contain heavy metals.

I am not worried about derusting iron/steel being a hazmat issue, it's not as long as you neutralize the acid. If you are seriously concerned about the non-liquid residual, rig a filtration system to filter it out of the neutralized fluid.


They say there are no such thing as a stupid question.
They say there is always the exception that proves the rule.
Don't be the exception.
Re: muriatic acid bath! [Re: BSB67] #1668762
09/10/14 01:56 PM
09/10/14 01:56 PM
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but what kind of goop came off in it when it was used for stripping parts?





Iron, and the stuff you were going to scrape off anyways. Once neutralized, no big deal.




Maybe, although the neutralizing itself does little to remove potential heavy metal toxicity, and technically, its far from legal to dump or dispose of haphazardly of any of the waste product.




Virtually everything you stated is incorrect.




We are talking about the location being in the US, in 2014, correct?

Care to stick around and back up that blanket statement?


So do you care to explain to us less informed how a heavy metal is rendered non toxic by a "neutralization"?


Or explain how any involved regulatory agency will turn a blind eye to haphazard disposal of the remnants/byproducts of a unregistered personal metal acid cleaning operation?

And explain how anybody here can tell with certainty what materials, surface or base metal alloys they are removing from a dirty item without any testing?




Sure.

First, you need to be clear what heavy metals are you talking about. Carbon steel and cast iron have very very little heavy metals of concern. Do you know what they are and common concentrations in acid baths? Do you know the valences? If you don't, saying things like it's toxic, or hazardous are meaningless statements.

Next, do you know the route of entry? For the very low concentrations of of these metals, in this form, ingestion is the only realistic route of entry. So, I would recommend not eating the stuff, and maybe washing your hands when you are done.

Finally, neutralization IS the treatment technology for the heavy metals that we are talking about. They precipitate and become insoluble hydroxides. To maximize the treatment, raising the pH to about 9.0 with your neutralizing agent will bring these heavey metals near the drinking water standards in the water phase.

If you are talking about acid cleaning long terne coated items (such as fuel tanks) or cadmium plated items, that would certainly be a different story. The concentration in the acid would be higher of a couple heavy metals, but the neutralization would still be effective.

I would not be an advocate of dumping the stuff on the ground, but bagging it up and disposing of it in your trash would be both legal and safe. If there are remaining neutralized liquids, the local POTW can easily manage that as well. If you are a business, you should probably conduct the appropriate leach test for liability reasons as your responsibilities are different than residential/homeowners.




So what percentage, if any here, comprehend your statement:
"Finally, neutralization IS the treatment technology for the heavy metals that we are talking about. They precipitate and become insoluble hydroxides. To maximize the treatment, raising the pH to about 9.0 with your neutralizing agent will bring these heavey metals near the drinking water standards in the water phase."

And if there is ANY stainless involved, with the OP's process, chromium is likely present in the process, and the the current federal water limits I believe for toxicity is, wait for it, 0.00ppb.
You and I are the only ones who have even mentioned the complications of cadmium, the rest?

The arrogance of ignorance maybe comforting to some, but trying to understand a process beyond the immediate concerns of rust removal, I guess for many requires too much responsibility.


"When one’s appeal is emotional, it does not matter if there is no substance."
Re: muriatic acid bath! [Re: jcc] #1668763
09/10/14 03:51 PM
09/10/14 03:51 PM
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 14,889
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Supercuda Offline
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Quote:



And if there is ANY stainless involved, with the OP's process, chromium is likely present in the process, and the the current federal water limits I believe for toxicity is, wait for it, 0.00ppb.
You and I are the only ones who have even mentioned the complications of cadmium, the rest?

The arrogance of ignorance maybe comforting to some, but trying to understand a process beyond the immediate concerns of rust removal, I guess for many requires too much responsibility.




The arrogance of ignorance, lol. Mirror, perhaps?

STAINLESS STEEL. If you have enough rust on STAINLESS STEEL to need muriatic acid to clean it, well then it's not STAINLESS STEEL. Point is moot, if not a strawman.

Cadmium plating? That's there to do what? Prevent rust. Rust means it's not there, if it ever was. Another moot point, if not again a strawman.

Explain to us how this would be any different than sand blasting the crud off? How to you dispose of that?


They say there are no such thing as a stupid question.
They say there is always the exception that proves the rule.
Don't be the exception.
Re: muriatic acid bath! [Re: Adam71Charger] #1668764
09/10/14 04:23 PM
09/10/14 04:23 PM
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Good lord! Where, oh where should I begin on this one?....

As already mentioned, dilute Muriatic acid (HCl) will remove oxidized metal from iron parts (acetic acid is safer, but slower). It can also strip out certain metals in alloys, so that is one thing that needs to be mentioned. The hydrogen brittling effect is most prevelent in nickel containing materials, as you can form nickel hydrides, which are flammable. If the acid solution only contains the acid, it can be neutralized by the appropriate amount of a base to give a salt solution and water. This process can generate a lot of heat (exothermic). If the salt is non-toxic, then the dilute salt solution can be released into the environment if the laws allow for that type of disposal. If any toxic material is possibly present in the solution, then it must be handled as containing a toxic material. Oil and grease can cause enviornmental problems, so they must be disposed of properly and not just dumped into the ground. Used motor oil is different chemically than crude oil from the ground. There are carcinogens in used motor oil from heated hydrocarbon contact with metal surfaces inside of engines. One must always follow proper procedures when working with corrosive chemicals, including goggles, gloves, protective apron or suit to name a few. Acid baths must always have a spill zone around them to contain spills should they leak out. Never, ever put water into a concentrated acid container! The resulting exothermic reaction can spray out of the container and hit you (not to mention the vapors). This is just for starters. The list can go on and on for several more pages...


My thanks to those who responded prevously on this topic with appropriate chemical answers....


Don't get me started on cadmium, mercury or lead in the above discussion. My PhD was in developing sensors to environmentally detect those metals....

Re: muriatic acid bath! [Re: jcc] #1668765
09/10/14 10:49 PM
09/10/14 10:49 PM
Joined: Feb 2005
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BSB67 Offline
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Quote:

Quote:

Quote:

Quote:

Quote:

Quote:

Quote:



but what kind of goop came off in it when it was used for stripping parts?





Iron, and the stuff you were going to scrape off anyways. Once neutralized, no big deal.




Maybe, although the neutralizing itself does little to remove potential heavy metal toxicity, and technically, its far from legal to dump or dispose of haphazardly of any of the waste product.




Virtually everything you stated is incorrect.




We are talking about the location being in the US, in 2014, correct?

Care to stick around and back up that blanket statement?


So do you care to explain to us less informed how a heavy metal is rendered non toxic by a "neutralization"?


Or explain how any involved regulatory agency will turn a blind eye to haphazard disposal of the remnants/byproducts of a unregistered personal metal acid cleaning operation?

And explain how anybody here can tell with certainty what materials, surface or base metal alloys they are removing from a dirty item without any testing?




Sure.

First, you need to be clear what heavy metals are you talking about. Carbon steel and cast iron have very very little heavy metals of concern. Do you know what they are and common concentrations in acid baths? Do you know the valences? If you don't, saying things like it's toxic, or hazardous are meaningless statements.

Next, do you know the route of entry? For the very low concentrations of of these metals, in this form, ingestion is the only realistic route of entry. So, I would recommend not eating the stuff, and maybe washing your hands when you are done.

Finally, neutralization IS the treatment technology for the heavy metals that we are talking about. They precipitate and become insoluble hydroxides. To maximize the treatment, raising the pH to about 9.0 with your neutralizing agent will bring these heavey metals near the drinking water standards in the water phase.

If you are talking about acid cleaning long terne coated items (such as fuel tanks) or cadmium plated items, that would certainly be a different story. The concentration in the acid would be higher of a couple heavy metals, but the neutralization would still be effective.

I would not be an advocate of dumping the stuff on the ground, but bagging it up and disposing of it in your trash would be both legal and safe. If there are remaining neutralized liquids, the local POTW can easily manage that as well. If you are a business, you should probably conduct the appropriate leach test for liability reasons as your responsibilities are different than residential/homeowners.




So what percentage, if any here, comprehend your statement:
"Finally, neutralization IS the treatment technology for the heavy metals that we are talking about. They precipitate and become insoluble hydroxides. To maximize the treatment, raising the pH to about 9.0 with your neutralizing agent will bring these heavey metals near the drinking water standards in the water phase."

And if there is ANY stainless involved, with the OP's process, chromium is likely present in the process, and the the current federal water limits I believe for toxicity is, wait for it, 0.00ppb.
You and I are the only ones who have even mentioned the complications of cadmium, the rest?

The arrogance of ignorance maybe comforting to some, but trying to understand a process beyond the immediate concerns of rust removal, I guess for many requires too much responsibility.




The federal limits are certainly not 0.00 ppb for chromium. I think it is 50 ppb. If you really care, I'll look it up. Also, of all of the heavy metals, the valence of chromium is critical in determining its toxicity. Hexavalent chrome is considered toxic, trivalent is not. And guess what, ONLY trivalent chrome will exist in an acid solution in the presence of iron.

Finally, hydrochloric acid will not effectively remove an oxide from stainless. A combination of hydrofluoric, sulfuric and usually a very strong oxidizer, typically nitric acid (peroxide can be used but you'll need a higher concentration of the other acids) is needed. Normally done at 160 F along with mechanical scrubbing. Again, as stated earlier, neutralizing waste acid from acid cleaning stainless will result in meeting the standard.


Now HF will kill you. It is both a strong acid and very very toxic, and will absorb into the body on contact through your skin. H2SO4 can also be considerably more dangerous than HCl, depending on concentration.

I'm all for doing the right thing, but today's hysteria over everything being toxic is simply mis-information. In our 5 second sound bit society, we don't even bother with the details of science.

Re: muriatic acid bath! [Re: BSB67] #1668766
09/11/14 01:39 AM
09/11/14 01:39 AM
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,662
Cut and Shoot, TX
kentj340 Offline
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Stay safe and be sane.

Number 1. Using acid to remove dirt, oil, and gunk is poor workmanship and a bad choice of methods. Better to use your wife's dishwasher with hot water and strong ammonia-containing soap or some other effective cleaning method.

Number 2. Insert only clean objects free of dirt, oil, and rust scale in a de-rusting chemical to preserve the strength and effectiveness of the chemical. It's a waste of the chemical to dissolve rust scale and cut oils that could have been easily removed.

Number 3. If you are trying to restore a piece of metal, generally speaking HCl is overkill and way too corrosive and unsafe. If the piece being restored has spot welds, HCl left in the cracks can keep on corroding and pop the welds. Something a lot less potent, such as vinegar or Evapo-Rust will get the job done effectively and safely. Yes, one of these is not cheap, but if you use good workmanship and follow Number 2 above, you won't waste it.

Number 4. Remove any object from any rust removing chemical immediately as soon as de-rusting is accomplished.


If you don't see two dolphins, you need a vacation.
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