oil pan baffle question
#1662180
08/22/14 08:25 AM
08/22/14 08:25 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,323 NY NY
340duster340
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,323
NY NY
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Does anyone make a weld in baffle for small block oil pans?
I could only find new pans. Thanks in advance.
1966 Dart GT
...down to only 1 mopar for the first time in 15 years!
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Re: oil pan baffle question
[Re: autoxcuda]
#1662184
08/23/14 11:02 PM
08/23/14 11:02 PM
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 723 Houston Tx
Uhcoog1
super stock
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super stock
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 723
Houston Tx
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Has anyone run a baffled stock oil pan back to back with a milodon road race pan? I'm curious if there is a marked difference between the two.
-'02 Dodge Viper Ex-World Challenge racecar -'73 Duster, 6.1 based 392 hilborn hemi, tko600, full floater rear 9", Hellwig custom bars, viper brakes, built for road course
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Re: oil pan baffle question
[Re: autoxcuda]
#1662185
08/24/14 01:33 PM
08/24/14 01:33 PM
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Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 40 upper So. CA
ntsqd
member
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member
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 40
upper So. CA
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Several years ago I built a pan for a KA engine going into a 510. Car was to be an aggressively driven street toy. That meant moving the sump & pick-up from the front to a little to the rear of a typical Mopar pan, but with rear steering it wasn't a true rear sump. For oil control we didn't want to spend the time on hinged gates. What I came up with was a pair of full sump depth V's facing each other open end to open end with the points fore and aft. Small pieces were fitted between the V points and the front and rear walls of the sump. There was about a 1/2" gap between them at the ends. Then I formed a second set of same size V's and placed them 90° to the first pair with their points centered on the gaps with about a 1/2" gap between the sides of each new V and the sides of the first pair. The pick-up was placed in the center of all of this. The car never suffered for lack of oil, but it never saw something like Turn 9 at Willow Springs either. The premise was that oil was raining back down into the sump at the same rate that it was being sucked out, so worst case re-filling the volume directly around the pick-up wouldn't be that much slower than the rate that the oil was being sucked out, but that the over-lapping baffles would keep the oil from being able to move away from the pick-up no matter what direction the G forces were. Not sure that I'd do this for a dedicated track car, but might be worth trying on a similarly driven car. Sorry, no pics - pre digi-cam.
I used to swerve around my hallucinations, now I drive right thru them.
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Re: oil pan baffle question
[Re: ntstlgl1970]
#1662187
08/24/14 11:06 PM
08/24/14 11:06 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,323 NY NY
340duster340
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OP
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NY NY
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Quote:
moroso or milodon used to sell a u-weld it road race sump kit you could put on your stock pan, but I think they discontinued it
thats what i was hoping to find, but no success in web search.
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Re: oil pan baffle question
[Re: jcc]
#1662190
08/25/14 12:01 PM
08/25/14 12:01 PM
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Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,443 NW Chicago suburban area
Mopar Mitch
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,443
NW Chicago suburban area
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In my stock pan with the horizontal plates welded in (front, rear and both sides), I also drilled some 1/4" holes at a few staggered places to, theoretically(?), help with oil return into the sump.
Having the pan modified with oil control baffles was the single best mod I've ever done to the car... to save the engine. As I've said before, too bad MaMopar didn't make these pans and others, with oil control baffles in the first place.
IF anyone runs an autocross/road course without a baffled pan, and then, at the end of the run you hear the hydraulic lifters ticking.. and you will hear them ticking!... then you really need to make the pan modification ASAP (or just get the Milodon pan)... or stop autocrossing until you get a baffled pan... or... you WILL end up halting the autocrossing because your engine WILL wipe out its bearings.
I have a mechanical oil pressure gauge and I've watched it best as possible during autocross and road course events (or while someone else drive my car and I'm the passenger)... rarely will it drop below 40-30 psi under severe cornering... typically stays at ~60 psi even while running through the hard turns/curves, accel/decel.... and NO lifter noise at all after any run.
I still intend to get a Milodon pan... Some of you might remember, from a few years ago, that Mopar Collector's Guide magazine named it one of the 10 Best new aftermarket items for us -- long over-due for us Mopar fans.
Last edited by Mopar Mitch; 08/25/14 03:46 PM.
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Re: oil pan baffle question
[Re: autoxcuda]
#1662191
08/25/14 02:48 PM
08/25/14 02:48 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,413 Pikes Peak Country
TC@HP2
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,413
Pikes Peak Country
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Quote:
Get sheet metal and you have to make your own.
I've done a version of this before and I'd suggest it as a minimum for any street driven car that you're going to throw around with aggressive driving. If you are actually hit events or tracks, then the Milodon pan is a godsend.
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