Moog K7103. Should used two kits. There are two bushings per kit. You should used them both per A-arm.

[img]http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/attachment.php?attachmentid=209427&stc=1&d=1296413838[/img]

Monroe gas magnums are fair performers up to around 1" diameter T-bars and are $30 per. The stock shocks will be totally overwhelmed.

11/16 tie rods and ends. Mehh, I'd save the money here and just replace your 9/16 ends. Unless you're pushing it to the limit, you aren't defelcting these enough t o justify the cost, IMO. FWIW, 9/16 ends will sustain 5g worth of loading before they fail. Any gains here are in the solid sleeves compared to the stock split sleeve. If you are adamant about solid sleeves, get swedged steel tubes from Speedway for $20 each instead of forking over big buck for billet sleeves.

Energy Suspension strut rod polyurethane - check tolerance stack up with these and how the effect your lower control arm seating position. These are often too thick and make the lower arm sit further back making caster even harder to achieve.

Fast ratio stuff, I like it. It does help with low sped maneuvering. Is unnecessary for high speed stuff.

Lock and seal kit, unless you stock ones are trashed, no need to get new ones.

Excellent, thank you for noticing that.
So I'm looking at 2 of the K7030s and 2 of the K7103s?

No. Just two kits of the K7103's That is the offset bushings themselves no cam eccentrics.

K7030 is the wrong part number. That number is for the standard bushings with a cam eccentrics.

If you need cam eccentrics you can buy them separately. Don't know the part number for that. Or just use your old ones if good.

As for the tie rod ends, the 11/16s are actually cheaper than the 9/16s, so I figure the upgrade will actually save me money.
With the money saved, I can buy a set of the billet sleeves, I suppose, or a set of swedged steel tubes from Speedway. Not sure what length I'd need, though. I suppose I can measure the length of the stock ones.

I understand that the urethane strut rod bushings probably aren't necessary. Don't want to mess up alignment specs.

I don't know what my stock pieces look like on the torsion bars. I'll be under the car on Saturday and will evaluate.

Thanks for the tips!

If 11/16 are cheaper, why not. You would need to measure your sleeves to approximate a sleeve you may need if you don't want mopar specific units.

The urethane strut bushings aren't a deal killer, just something to be mindful of checking. The thickness of them very from brand to brand so you just want to make sure you aren't putting units in that are thicker than stock. If they are, urethane can be turned down very easily. Firmer strut bushings are good for heavy braking to minimize toe changes. This is why a number of upgrade struts actually use heims as a more solid means of reducing deflection.