Re: 400BB build up
[Re: GTX MATT]
#1658747
10/17/14 04:46 PM
10/17/14 04:46 PM
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 119 Jacksonville , Fl
Volare4life
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OP
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 119
Jacksonville , Fl
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6400, and I am still not getting what your putting down thumper lol, are you talking about what mods you do to carbs ? Also are 2" headers to 3.5" collectors too big for the current build ?
The answers are out there you just got to look hard enough
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Re: 400BB build up
[Re: Volare4life]
#1658748
10/17/14 10:46 PM
10/17/14 10:46 PM
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Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,463 oklahoma
forphorty
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,463
oklahoma
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Quote:
6400, and I am still not getting what your putting down thumper lol, are you talking about what mods you do to carbs ? Also are 2" headers to 3.5" collectors too big for the current build ?
Yes, much.
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Re: 400BB build up *DELETED*
[Re: forphorty]
#1658749
10/17/14 10:49 PM
10/17/14 10:49 PM
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 19,318 State of confusion
Thumperdart
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 19,318
State of confusion
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Post deleted by Thumperdart
72 Dart 470 n/a BB stroker street car `THUMPER`...Check me out on FB Dominic Thumper for videos and lots of carb pics......760-900-3895.....
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Re: 400BB build up
[Re: Thumperdart]
#1658750
10/17/14 11:03 PM
10/17/14 11:03 PM
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Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,463 oklahoma
forphorty
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,463
oklahoma
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
6400, and I am still not getting what your putting down thumper lol, are you talking about what mods you do to carbs ? Also are 2" headers to 3.5" collectors too big for the current build ?
Yes, much.
Yes sir...........Unless DP does the things others and myself do, I guarantee I can make it cleaner and better............GUARANTEED!
To clarify, I meant, yes, I believe a 2x3.5 header is much too big for the current build. Something more like 13/4 x3 would probably be better.
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Re: 400BB build up
[Re: Thumperdart]
#1658752
10/22/14 04:57 PM
10/22/14 04:57 PM
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 119 Jacksonville , Fl
Volare4life
OP
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OP
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Jacksonville , Fl
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*bump for GTX MATT* opinions on my cam choice 6400 summit ? or would the tried and true .509 be a better option ? cam recommendations are always welcome
-Mike
The answers are out there you just got to look hard enough
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Re: 400BB build up
[Re: Volare4life]
#1658753
10/22/14 05:31 PM
10/22/14 05:31 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,575 The Netherlands
BigBlockMopar
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,575
The Netherlands
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I've recently wrenched together a bone stock 400 as a simple cruiser engine. Didn't change much on the stock internals, except for a slightly larger than stock cam and new cambearings. I did use 0.020" steel headgaskets and lightly milled a set of 915-heads to up the CR a bit but I didn't cc or measure anything to find out where I was at. Used an Offenhauser dualport intake. It was the only 4-bbl intake I had. Needed to enlarge the intake boltholes slightly because of the headmilling. Engine vacuum is fairly low still so I suspect the piston rings have seen better days. Recently recurved the ignition which woke it up nicely. BeforeAfter
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Re: 400BB build up
[Re: Volare4life]
#1658755
10/22/14 06:09 PM
10/22/14 06:09 PM
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 11,632 SHELBY TWP,,MICHIGAN
72N96RR
I LOVE WEDGIES
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I LOVE WEDGIES
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 11,632
SHELBY TWP,,MICHIGAN
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Quote:
so got the block spotless, and guess what a few of the cylinders got some deep pitting, its bad enough after running a "dingle-berry" hone to knock off the varnish i could clearly see the pitting. Oh damn now i have to bore it out, So what do you guys recommend for a really good forged piston ?
Also how much HP/TQ can stock 400 rods take ?
I think it would be a good time to upgrade the rods to h-beams, any good brands out there that can take a bunch of abuse ? looking to make around 400+ crank HP, and going either blown or boosted, but i want to build a stout forged bottom end.
Speaking of bottom ends, already drilled out the pick up to 1/npt, suction side of the block, blended and smoothed the OP suction and discharge sides, drilled out the discharge with a 9/16 till about 3/16 from the oring.
I won't know the overbore for a few days, but I want to build this right the first time, and yes I will be keeping the iron heads for now. which i know even with porting and maybe another round of decking (had the shop just machine them enough to clean them up).
While we are at it, I am returning the cardone reman dizzy, thing is a real piece of work, it needs its mag pickup replaced because it is not only almost flush with the tanish rubber insulator, but is angled and is smacking the reluctor, I do have a few slant dizzy's lying about i was gonna take a pick up off of one of them and just install it, but aside from MSD what is a quality dizzy for a low deck, and i already know to avoid that procomp crap,
And i was thinking magnecor wires for it as well,But i am open to suggestions, already have the GM HEI up grade as well,
-Mike
Diamond custom dish piston 18cc..10.95 to 1 with 75cc head... 4.250 low deck stroker crank 6.535 big chevy H beam rods
1972 Road Runner / GTX 440 4spd Dana 3.54 Just about to turn 26K original miles..
A boat, a GMC truck, some Craftsman Tools, LOTS of Zombie Protection, and a few Goldfish..
If you love someone set them free.. If they come back it means nobody else wanted them either..!!
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Re: 400BB build up
[Re: mopar400]
#1658758
10/23/14 12:02 AM
10/23/14 12:02 AM
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 119 Jacksonville , Fl
Volare4life
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OP
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 119
Jacksonville , Fl
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Appreciate the dyno software MOPAR400.
Laroy those are pretty decent numbers considering the compression, I will be about 9.3/9.5-1 according to eagles calculator.
72N96RR, i already have KB240's and eagle H beams (6.358, but thank you for the recommendation.
GTX MATT I plan on running a 3000-3200 stall, just realised Turbo Action is literally 30mins from my house here in jacksonville fl. Gonna give them a call, they seem to get good reviews on there converters.
Unfortunately my order that was supposed to be here today, but fedex yet again has let me down and my order is still in georgia !! So one more day before I can get the rotating assembly balanced.
The answers are out there you just got to look hard enough
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Re: 400BB build up
[Re: GTX MATT]
#1658759
10/23/14 11:13 AM
10/23/14 11:13 AM
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Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 164 Savannah, GA
mopar400
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Posts: 164
Savannah, GA
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Quote:
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*bump for GTX MATT* opinions on my cam choice 6400 summit ? or would the tried and true .509 be a better option ? cam recommendations are always welcome
-Mike
How racy/radical do you want it to be? At this point you're upping the compression, you're going to give it good induction and exhaust, pretty much everything it needs with the exception of gear. If you want it to run harder NA I would go with the 6401. I'd stay smaller than the 509 unless you plan to go to 3.91s or more eventually though.
IMO the 6401 isn't too radical, and with your converter and decent compression you're not losing anything to the 6400 really. The 6400 is really basically a stock HP cam, or what people call and RV/Towing cam. I think with the 6401 it would be a 400-425 horse engine
I ran a 400 for years with the .484 and .509 cam later on. I think the .484 was a lot better fit for my combo (only 8-8.5:1). I'd go with the 6401. Should run strong.
1965 Fury II
1970 Challenger 440, 509 cam, 11:1 w/ 452 iron heads, 6.99 1/8, 11.29@ 120mph 1/4
(1999 Magnolia Drag strip track champion)
1992 Jeep XJ Crawler
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Re: 400BB build up
[Re: mopar400]
#1658760
11/02/14 02:58 PM
11/02/14 02:58 PM
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 119 Jacksonville , Fl
Volare4life
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Jacksonville , Fl
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Well got the old summit cam all packaged up ready to ship back, I am just hoping that the 6401 cam will pull to redline (5,500 RPM)like advertised, Like i said I am open to other suggestions anything to anything bigger,also wondering if stock springs would be ok to reuse with the 6401 cam, I have cut the valve stem guides to .530 with teflon seals, remember it should be around 9.5:1 compression on a set of lightly decked 906 heads with KB hyper pistons, ferrea SS valves, and eagle H-beam rods, still need to get over to turbo action, but I need to finish the engine and get it to the dyno to figure out which converter to mate to it,gonna give my engine machine shop a call monday and see how things are going,
-Mike
The answers are out there you just got to look hard enough
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Re: 400BB build up
[Re: Volare4life]
#1658761
12/03/14 03:08 AM
12/03/14 03:08 AM
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 119 Jacksonville , Fl
Volare4life
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member
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OP
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 119
Jacksonville , Fl
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so got everything back from the machine shop, getting ready to assemble the engine, I do have a few questions before I fire it up, and I have killed the search button, but there are just so many different ways to cut the cake, it gets a bit confusing, and looking for clarity so i do it right, since this is my first real (mild) performance build.
I have read that you can run just straight water, then once its broke in drain and fill with anti-freeze, which makes sense especially if (knock on wood) you have leaks, but any truth to running it with no t-stat for break in ?
I also remembering hearing when breaking in a fresh motor, that you should run exhaust manifolds vs headers, any truth to that ?
Is the general rule of thumb to start it and set timing then bringing it up to the varied 1800-2000/2500rpms or start it bring it up to the varied rpm for break in, then bring it to idle and set the timing ?
What is the go to oil for break in, straight 30W, any 30W with a ZDDP additive ? conventional dino, semi or full syn ? I have also heard "break it in with what you plan on running in it" ?
How soon to change it after the break in is complete ? I have heard right after, 200-500 miles of mild driving, so ??
And I know this topic has been beaten worse then a tough chunk of meat, BUT who uses normal dino oil with an additive vs say brad penn/gibbs/VR1 etc ? I don't mind paying extra for quality, but if you get the same results at the end of the day and can save a bit, hey its a good day.
How much ZDDP is too much ? in a diesel vs reg/semi syn/full syn,I know that the higher zinc is good, higher phosphorus is bad.
Thanks as always, -Mike
The answers are out there you just got to look hard enough
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