|
Re: N/A cam for my engine to run N/A
[Re: Clanton]
#1652409
08/01/14 12:20 PM
08/01/14 12:20 PM
|
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 610
long time lurker, short time p...
PorkyPig
mopar
|
mopar
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 610
long time lurker, short time p...
|
Quote:
I think I may be able to advance my cam and use it but I don't know.OI have been told it is like an old Super stock cam but like I said I have no idea.
.646 int .631 exh
at .050 260 int 269 exh
at .020 291 int 306 exh
int open 21 close at 59
exh open 69 close at 19
112 LSA
Gear?
Converter?
Without any more info, my thought is a single pattern around the same intake duration you have now, but tightened up to a 106-107 LSA. Without the blower, the cam you have now is "bleeding out" the mid-range torque you need to get that heavy beast moving.
|
|
|
Re: N/A cam for my engine to run N/A
[Re: Clanton]
#1652413
08/01/14 05:51 PM
08/01/14 05:51 PM
|
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 610
long time lurker, short time p...
PorkyPig
mopar
|
mopar
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 610
long time lurker, short time p...
|
Quote:
Do you meen put the cam in[ICL?] with the 112LSA at 106/107 or?I would think the 112 LSA would be better avg hp.
Nope, I'm suggesting a new cam ground on 106-107 LSA installed on 102-103 ICL. You need to build some torque, and that blower came ain't the way to do it unless you stick the blower back on.
|
|
|
Re: N/A cam for my engine to run N/A
[Re: FastmOp]
#1652416
11/25/14 04:10 PM
11/25/14 04:10 PM
|
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 4,489
northern,Ohio,USA
Clanton
OP
master
|
OP
master
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 4,489
northern,Ohio,USA
|
Quote:
It's going to be hard to run faster then a 6.50 with your combo of parts. The small cubic inches, low stall, and shallow gears are all fighting against a low ET.
I'd change the stall 1st. It will prolly be a better ET gain then a cam. If your stuck on a cam change only I don't think there's a lot to be gained and still keep the lift where you want it.
Can I borrow the blower stuff for a summer?  
MMMMMMaybe for 1 race but not the summer.  I will get more N/A parts over time be it a vert or cam.I may do a swap at the track from n/a to boost may be fun or the other way.
|
|
|
Re: N/A cam for my engine to run N/A
[Re: Clanton]
#1652417
11/25/14 04:59 PM
11/25/14 04:59 PM
|
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,845
Tampa
DusterDave
top fuel
|
top fuel
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,845
Tampa
|
What is your static compression ratio?
Gone to the dark side with an LS3 powered '57 Chevy 210
|
|
|
Re: N/A cam for my engine to run N/A
[Re: Clanton]
#1652420
11/26/14 04:22 AM
11/26/14 04:22 AM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,010
Frostbitefalls MN (Rocky&Bullw...
gregsdart
I Live Here
|
I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,010
Frostbitefalls MN (Rocky&Bullw...
|
Going with a roller cam requires upgrading the entire valve train if you are going to reap most of the benefits. How good are your rockers? pushrods will need to change due to lifter height change. Valve springs will need to be plenty stout, somewhere in the 250+ lbs on the seat, maybe more depending on lobe. It sounds like your combo will want something in the neighborhood of 270 to 275 degrees at .050, probably on a 108 CL or less. The closer you can get to a gross lift of .700 the better. If you have a gross lift of .700 your true max lift will be .700 minus lash (.028?) and also minus compression of parts(.010?) for a total of about .662 net lift, which is just barely above your heads peak flow.
The two things that stand out to me here are your compression, which is fairly low and why I picked the duration and lsa, and stall in the converter. To make this car fly it will be best at or above 5,000 minimum, and closer to 6,000 wouldn't hurt a bit.
If you decide you are willing to stay normally aspirated, then you can cut the heads for more compression and go up in duration to match. It will take a little figuring to see how far you can go with that, but a sharp engine builder can help you out in picking the cam and final compression so you can put the cam where it will be happiest.
8..603 156 mph best, 2905 lbs 549, indy 572-13, alky
|
|
|
Re: N/A cam for my engine to run N/A
[Re: gregsdart]
#1652421
11/26/14 11:51 AM
11/26/14 11:51 AM
|
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 4,489
northern,Ohio,USA
Clanton
OP
master
|
OP
master
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 4,489
northern,Ohio,USA
|
I have a full roller in now,HS rockers,Manton best 3/8 push rods,Pac springs at 280# seat/680# open.The N/A is really for driving on the street to a car show so a perfect combo is not a must have.I may choose to stay N/A later and will try to get parts for that goal.I think my vert will stay over 5K rpm and is 5500 now[9.5" PTC steel stater]
Last edited by Clanton; 11/26/14 11:57 AM.
|
|
|
Re: N/A cam for my engine to run N/A
[Re: Clanton]
#1652425
11/26/14 03:10 PM
11/26/14 03:10 PM
|
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,211
Bend,OR USA
Cab_Burge
I Win
|
I Win
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,211
Bend,OR USA
|
The smaller C.I. motors are a little more sensitive to the cam duration. On your deal, especially for the street, I would look at a cam with 255 to maybe 272 duration at .050 and as much lobe lift I could get. Have it ground on 106 to 108 LSA and install it between 102 and 104, depending on the LSA, and let it eat.I always go back to something Joe Alread told me a long time ago, his deal was to work on the fisrt 100 ft. of the track, he said the rest of the track will take care of itself as long as the car leaves hard. I keep that in mind when selecting camshafts, the closer LSA will help the car move a lot harder the first foot than a wider LSA will  Been there, done that  Let the cam overlap help fill the cylinders, hence Iskys Fifth Cycle advertising back in the day  IHTHS BTW, I had one cam that was accidently ground on a 101 LSA, installed at 99 ILC. That cam ended up making the customer very happy, more happy than the other cam that was ground on 110 and installed at 106 intake lobe center
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
|
|
|
|
|
