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If you don't like the charge line hot all the time you can use a large diode or wire direct to the battery and put a solenoid that is activated by voltage after the kill switch so when you turn off kill switch it kills solenoid and with it wired to the battery there will be no charge voltage to keep it alive. The reason the disconnect is on the positive instead of negative side is some alt. will full field and fry things when you remove negative. You can do the same thing on the ground side to by putting the ground through a solenoid and activating it on the output side of the disconnect the same way as the charge line you just need to get a solenoid that has two wires so you can run the other side to the battery side ground or it will not turn back on. I used to do rv repair they do all kind of disconnects and charge diodes on them. I just realized that big cube put a diagram that shows it perfectly.

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If you are really worried about it being hot you
can put a 100 amp fuse at each end of the alt output
lead... how many times have you EVER HEARD of that
line shorting out... every production car is hot..
I dont waste my time with all those added things
that can fail and leave you hanging

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Hi All,

So me and a bud of mine tried to figure out what's going on here and we made some headway, but are still a little stumped. We've called it a night and will try again tomorrow, but here's a pic of how my alt is wired up with info id'ing the wires. We went from testing the kill switch to making sure grounds were good to making sure all the wiring was secure. We are now thinking there might be something messed up on the dash side of the bulkhead, but wanted to see what input we'd get before going further. In the image, I id'ed the wired coming to/from the alt and hope to get some input. Again, I thank everyone for their assistance.

Dave

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You CANT run the alt wire to the ignition (from the alt)
that will be hot all the time the alt is turning
EDIT
The lead you show going from the alt to the starter
is wrong... that lead HAS to go back to the batt side
of the master.. the black lead you have CANT go to
go to the ignition or any point of the ignition..
you have to have the alt go to the batt side of the
master... then run a lead forward to the start or
a junction then to the starter... the junction will
be where you pull power from for the ignition or ANYTHING
else

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I use a continuous duty relay in mine to kill alternator when the switch is off.

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Did exactly what you show here, checked it twice as well... hit the switch and it remained running. Not sure where to go from here... bottom line is I need to have it work before I go to the track; yep tech said ya gotta have one with a trunk mounted battery. Nothing has changed (factory wiring harness, etc.) from day one when I got the car. Will see what I can find for info, greatly appreciate your help here.

Dave

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As shown put your Alt wire to the relay, and put your ignition /bulk head feed at the Moroso cutoff switch feed.

Get the ignition feed off the alt output and feed it from the Moroso cut off switch as in BigCubes diagram. Then your good to go.

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Mike, the positive post at the starter is hot, straight from the bat/cutoff switch when on, so I can see why the alt output is ran there.

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The big (red) alt wire has to be on the battery side
of the master.. if it goes to the starter the alt is
supplying power when the master is off... the black
lead he has is also a problem.. it will supply power
to the ignition