Hey guys,

I was able to help my brother put the 360 and 727 into his 71 Demon.



Everything went smoothly (no scratches, dents, or broken parts). However, I do have a few questions.

First off, he is running a set of HTC coated Heddman headers and it appears that one of the tubes is hitting the steering box. Has anybody else had this issue? I am guessing that we will have to pull the header and "clearance" the tube. Has anybody removed that driver side header without lifting the engine back out?

Secondly, during the install there was no way for us to drop it in with the passenger side headers on so we removed them. Any tips on the easiest way to install those? Should we do from the top or from the bottom? Also should these headers be used with a oil filter adapter of some sort? It looks like the filter will hit the headers or at least be a pain to remove since it is coming off the block at a 45 degree angle into them. The block is a 1995 Magnum 360 if that makes a difference.





Third and last (for now), it appears that the engine is not centered when you look at it from the center of the car. It is currently in a 340 K member from a 1970 Duster and I believe everything was done correctly. In the pic it looks like the middle of the K member does not line up with the middle of the engine (using the ballancer as a reference point). What should I be checking?



I am hoping to get these few things ironed out to continue progress on the build.

Thanks in advance guys!

-Brian

Hey neighbor, on the TTI's on my demon they would hit the box and center link, on there site it states the crank centerline should be I think 5 1/4" up from k frame double check that measurement on there site.. I had to put spacers under my mounts to clear everything but it still touched the inner tie rod nut and center link slightly. I took the spacers out this year and dimpled the headers where needed because I wanted to fit the 6 pack under the hood cleaner and all. The engine should be ofset to the pass side that measurement is on TTI's site also.

Engines are not centered.

Should have laid the pass header in as you were installing the engine. Oil filter off the engine at that time. Now you will have to put it in from the bottom , raising the engine up and likely taking the motor mount bracket off.

Might need to shim the drivers side for clearance.

Guys have slotted the (3) st box mounting holes so the box could be moved over slightly to the outside (the limiting factor is your going against the squareness of the inline column) and it would require tie rod/toe in readjustment but that itself is no big deal & just me I dont like dinging headers. cover the headers with piece of garbage bags/duct tape to protect everything during your maneuvering. likely will need the 90 deg oil filter adapter or you might get by with a teacup filter (it's smaller so change it more often). yes the eng is offset from dead center to the pass side cuz of the st col. You want the eng level from side to side and (the carb which is the most important) reasonably level fore/aft and this will change the driveshaft/ujoint angles. You definitely need pan to tie rod clearance & reportedly the 73 up A body center link gives a bit more clearance than the 68-72 and you'd need the matching (73 up) pitman/idler arms to fit it

Now it appears we are running into a fitment issue regarding the oil pan and the centerlink. I believe the oil pan is a 1995 magnum 360 pan. Anybody ever run into this before?

Only thing(s) I can think of is to raise the eng or swap the pan. Not sure what (if) the gain is with the 73 up centerlink. I'm wondering how deep/wide is the mag pan compared to 360 pans as that seems to be the only non stock piece in this deal. Where is it hitting (bottom/sides?). For reference the 392 360 pan the sump starts ~4" back from the front lip and ~2" with the 876 360 pan and both sumps are ~8" long. I did not measure the sump depth.

The engine should not be centered in the car.
The driver's side of the car contains the driver, master cylinder(s), steering gear box, etc. The Mopar engineers were crafty and slid the engine towards the passenger side to get better weight distribution.

The 90 degree adapter can be rotated to move the oil filter away from header tubes.

R.

Here are some additional pictures to help and distinguish the pan and possibly what pan I need.





On another forum it was suggested that I was possibly running the wrong mounts, here is what I have.



Thanks in advance,
Brian

where (what) specifically is it hitting. EDIT I'm assuming that is the 392 pan which is the rearmost position sump of the LA 360 "centersump" pans

Wow! It has almost been a year and I am just getting time to try to get this solved.

Anybody have any ideas?

Do they make taller engine mounts?

Here is a pic showing how thick the current mounts are.




Also, it looks like a mouse decided to make a snack out of the wire coming out of the distributor. Any idea if replacements are available?



Thanks in advance guys! We hope to have it together by 2070......hahaha

I put a '95 Magnum in a '72 b-body. Used Hooker headers. Welded two oil pans together to achieve a center sump pan. I modified one of the motor mounts but not much. It has been a few years but I remember it took a lot of patience and persistence to get everything to clear.

"Joesixpack" has pickups (with pigtail) for sale for reasonable money (on here). I mighta got his last one. The pic dont looke too bad but you could shorten it as needed & use heat sink clips if/when soldering toward the pickup end just to be safe to keep the heat away from the pickup coil