I am almost done with my 69 Dart and I am considering whether to put in a roll bar. Maybe someone with the same combo can tell me if a really need one.The car is mini tubbed with the springs moved so I can run 295 or 325x55x15 MT ets it has a 3.91 limited slip.10.5 Ross pistons with fairly light H beam rods xs290x comp cams solid lifter cam,1.5 ratio Harland Sharp rocker arms,Indy EZ standard heads with a better valve job and blending by Duane Porter. M1 single plane with Demon 850 carb. TCI Super Streetfighter with 10 in Turbo Action Converter med 3800 stall wit2 inch Pro Parts headers.I am guessing around 12 seconds in the 1/4 mile? I am an old timer that bracket raced a 1970 Cuda back in the 80s and we live near Sonoma Raceway so my son and I just wanted to build a mild setup we could drive on the street a little and still go to the Weds night brackets. I didn't really want a roll bar in it.

My brothers combo(72 Cuda) has a little more gear(4.10) less cam and Edelbrock Performer heads, performer intake and has been 11.28 in the 1/4. Not sure what your suspension is like. He is running cal-tracs and 9" slicks, but if you can hook and have everything sorted out you may be surprised what you will run.

Some general rules:

-All cars must have a catch can for radiator overflow of at least 1 pint. These must be securely fastened (bolted or clamped). Factory overflow in most late-models is fine.

-Neutral safety switch (again, if using a factory shifter, this should be already installed. Aftermarket shifters will require wiring this in).

-If battery is in the back/trunk (regardless of ET), a secured tray and cutoff switch is required.

-If using Nitrous oxide, the bottle must be securely mounted (no plastic brackets), bottle must be stamped with 1800-lb DOT rating and identified as nitrous oxide. If bottle is located in driver's compartment, it must be equipped with a relief valve and vented outside the compartment. Commercially available thermostatically controlled bottle-type warmers are permitted, all other heating of bottles prohibited (i.e. blow torches).

-Any vehicle using a spool center section requires aftermarket axles with positive retention (c-clip eliminators).

-NHRA national and divisional races require clear glass around the vehicle, subject to check. Local races vary, check with your division or track.

13.99 1/4-mile (8.59 1/8-mile) or quicker:

-A driveshaft safety loop is required when you run slicks (not drag radials or street tires). With street tires or drag radials, no loop is required until 11.49 1/4-mile (7.35 1/8-mile) and faster.

-A helmet (closed face or open) is required with a minimum Snell K98 or M2000/SA2000 rating. Helmets last 12 years from their rating date (example a Snell 2005 would be good until 2017). Shield is not required.

11.99 1/4-mile ( 1/8-mile) or quicker:

-Metal screw-in valve stems required on tubeless tires on all wheels.

11.49 1/4-mile (7.35 1/8-mile) or quicker:

-A 5-point minimum roll bar on a fixed roof car (t-tops okay as well if in place while racing) from 11.49 to 11.00 (7.00 1/8-mile). If the hardtop / t-top car has un-altered floors, firewall and frame rails (wheel tubs are okay), then the 5-point roll bar is good til 10.00 1/4 mile (6.40 1/8-mile). Convertibles require the 5-point bar from 13.49 (8.25 1/8-mile to 11.00 (7.00 1/8-mile). The rollbar must be constructed of minimum 1 ¾ inch o.d. x .118 inch wall mild steel tubing, or 1 ¾ x .083 chrome moly tubing. The roll bar can be bolted or welded to the floor, see diagram for specs. Roll bar must be padded anywhere the driver's helmet may contact it while in the driving position.
See diagram below.

The 5-points are:
-Main hoop; 2 "down bars" (bars that go from the main hoop rearward to the trunk floor/hatch area. These can be straight or bent like a "package tray" style, search for photos); Welded crossbar for belts (can't be removable); Driver side door bar (can be a swing-out. Many put a passenger's side bar in as well (6-point) because it strengthens the car on both sides, but if you have subframe connectors the difference may be minimal).

-Protective Clothing (SFI jacket with a 3.2A/1 rating, no expiration date)

-5 point harness (up to date, they must be replaced or re-certified every 2 years)

-SFI-approved flywheel and/or clutch (no expiration date)

-Screw-in valve stems

-No tint allowed on window except factory

10.99 1/4-mile (6.99 1/8-mile) or quicker:

-5-point roll bar is still okay to 10.00 1/4-mile (6.40 18-mile) in hardtop / t-top with un-altered floors, firewall and frame rails (wheel tubs are okay). If the floor and/or firewall has been modified, then a full roll cage is required beginning at a 10.99 e.t. or any vehicle running 135 mph or faster (regardless of e.t.). The roll cage must be constructed of minimum 1 5/8 o.d.x .118 mild steel tubing, or 1 5/8 x .083 chrome moly tubing. Roll cage must be padded anywhere the driver's helmet may contact it while in the driving position.
See diagram below.

-Convertibles require full roll cage at 10.99 and quicker.
See diagram below.

-aftermarket axles with positive retention (c-clip eliminators)

-Transmission shield SFI Spec 4.1 at 10.99 and quicker or 135 mph and quicker (blanket is okay, no expiration date)

-Harmonic Balancer SFI Spec 18.1 (no expiration date)


9.99 1/4-mile (6.39 1/8-mile)/ 135 mph or quicker:

-Roll cage is required on all vehicles at 9.99 and quicker or any vehicle running 135 mph or faster (regardless of e.t.). The roll cage must be constructed of minimum 1 5/8 o.d.x .118 mild steel tubing, or 1 5/8 x .083 chrome moly tubing. Roll cage must also be certified by NHRA every 3 years, and have a serialized sticker affixed prior to participation. The cage must be padded anywhere the driver's helmet may contact it while in the driving position. This style of cage is good til 8.50 1/4-mile times, then a funny car style cage is required.
See diagram below.

-Window net required (can be ribbon or mesh, no altering allowed unless done by manufacturer. No expiration date per 2008 NHRA rule book, but some have said 2 years on expiration/re-cert. Check with your local track or division).

-NHRA competition driver's license required, done by car designation (dragster, door car, etc). A physical, 2 NHRA licensed drivers to witness/sign your forms and minimum 6 runs are required.

-Flexplate SFI 29.1 and shield SFI 30.1 required (no expiration dates listed, but I believe the shield is 5 years)

-Protective Clothing (SFI jacket and pants with a 3.2A/5 rating, gloves and neck collar, no expiration date)

-Battery cutoff (regardless or whether battery is still up front or relocated to rear of vehicle)

-A full-face helmet is required with a minimum Snell K98 or M2000/SA2000 rating. Helmets last 12 years from their rating date (example a Snell 2005 would be good until 2017). Shield is permitted but not required. This rule posting is as it applies to cars like ours (closed body type). For open cars a different helmet ruling is required.

-A engine diaper is required at NHRA national and divisional races, local races vary, check with your division or track.

Parachutes:

-Required at 150 mph or faster, no matter the e.t.

Yeah, it might very well surprise you.

You didn't say how big the motor is but assuming its a basic 440, it should run 11's with ease.

If i was in your shoes I would go make a test passes and see how fast it was before I put a bar in it. Even if its a little too fast, you can slow it down to be legal.

I would reccomend though you put subframe connectors in the car.

Yes it is 440, thanks for the replies and I did install subframe connectors.

Depends, how much do you value your life?

This is what happened to my old 66 Dart when a balljoint came apart in the traps at 112 mph. It only ran 11.90's but that 6 point bar I welded in did its job. My 63 is close to your build but I have a 4.15 crank for 493 cubes. Its a solid cam at .585 and .592 lift and I use 1.6 rockers for more lift. EZ heads I akso bought from Dwayne Porter and 10.6 comp. Indy dual plane with a 850 DP. Dynamic 9.5 converter and its in the 10's at 3700 lbs so I would think your Dart will be lighter and should run below 11.50 without much trouble. Myself I put a bar in my 63 when it was only running 11.50's but as you see I have good reason to put a bar in all my cars now. I only use a 6 point bar since it is a street car as thats not as much bar to worrry about hitting your head on driving on the street. Ron

delete

Here is the only other pic I have of it. I was very lucky the belts kept me in the car cause as I said I dont remeber any of it. Ron

If that car ran 12s I would be upset if I were you. That car should be a 10 second car, no doubt low 11s.

I just put together a similar engine, same cam, 10.52:1, Stealth heads, and a 4 speed. I'm shooting for mid to high 11s. You should run stronger with the better heads and additional work and a weight advantage to boot. It starts to come on around 2500-3000 and pulls like a SOB 4K+. I haven't found anyone else running this cam in a 440 (most Mopar guys like to fool around with hydraulics for some reason)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eodexVvJxkk

Yes on the roll bar. That's a 10 sec combo. Even with the lazy Chevy grind cam.

If you want to be an "older" timer, put a bar in it. When I went from a mid 11 car to a mid 10 car, I didn't screw around - went right to an 8 point bar - and added a longitudinal bar near the floor to stiffen the middle of the chassis.

I took the approach of buying a full race car and trying to mild it down to drive it on the street a bit. Our local track is really loose with the rules (except no passengers below a certain speed, especially if they are the tower worker's kid) but the wall doesn't care. I like my bars. Probably ought to use the window net too.

I put a cage in just because I got tired of being paranoid at the track and worrying about tech ruining my day.
plus if you're going that fast best to just be rather safe than sorry.
If you like to go to the track you're eventually gonna do it anyways. Just do it now and be done.

QUOTE: "If that car ran 12s I would be upset if I were you. That car should be a 10 second car, no doubt low 11s."

Ditto that! I ran 11.40's with a junk, near STOCK 440 in a Dart back in the day.

My advise would be bite the bullet and do the roll bar or cage. Not only will save your azz in the event of a mishap, it will stiffen the car up. If it were me, I'd to an 8 point cage, with dual swing out bars and be done with it.