The green Demon finally got out of paint shop jail and I got it out to the track Friday night for some TnT. The new 315 MT Drs would not hook when I put the power to them. If I foot braked it did better but launching at 5500 on the 'vert with the transbrake and they blew. I started at 23 PSI on the FB abd got a 1.41 60, heated them to 25 PSI for the first TB pass and it dropped about 0.15, dropped the PSI to 17 and launched set to kill at 5500 and the thing just spun through the 60 @ 1.9x. Added air to 24 PSI, FB'd and returned to 1.41. It went 1.31 on 10.5W slicks not trying bery hard (first time out).

Suggestions? Maybe wire in the TB to the 7AL-3 and put in a 3000 pill (for a start)?

You need a very good set of double adjustable shocks. you need to really slow down the hit on the rear tire. Drag radials do not like to be hit real hard, very controlled suspension movements. I think you are a little high on pressure as I have found its in the 16-18 psi range. I think the high pressure where helping with the big hit you were putting on them.

My expereinces with the M/T E.T Street Radials is they don't hook on a bad track and once they start to spin you have to lift to let them hook back up I'm sure there are some drag radial racers that are hooking them up but it ain't me with a trans brake or stick shift car

Whats the rear suspension and what shocks all around

I think the car has good rear shocks but not sure if they are still any good. This is the KOS Demon I bought from Mike Robbins.

I just switched to drag radials about 3 weeks ago. In my limited experience on my car, 3200#, Caltracs, 275/60/15 Hoosier DR, they liked about 17#'s.

Listen to Brad (dart GT) and Monte Smith.

I would start adjusting the shocks. You should be able to play around with shocks and tire pressure til it hooks, then start raising the launch rpm as necessary. Like you experienced, the DR will not recover like a slick, so you want everything to come on smooth.

I would make 1-2psi changes, 8psi is quite a jump.

18psi....

Air pressure is a value that will change with different
cars due to the rear weight.. so what works on one
car might not work on yours unless they weigh close
to one other and then it comes down to how much torque
your making as to how you adjust the shocks... did you
say what rear suspension is on it

You are way high on pressure. I see most cars with a 315 are in the 14-16 lb range. You need a set of shocks valved for a radial or send yours off to be done. In my experience the 4 link needs to be a tad shorter and have more anti squat than you would run in a slick tire car. You with out a doubt need to do something where the rpm at launch can be controlled. Lots of changes to make radials work especially on an average prepped race track.

We run 14psi on a 12in wheel with the 315s and have been 1.08 in the 60ft. If a 4-link car, you have to set it up short and with a LOT of bite.........like a ladder bar car. You have to hammer the tire hard at the hit to plant it and THEN ease up to make it go. It does NOT knock it off at the hit, but about 2-3 tenths out is where a radial gets in trouble. Your starting line rpm is way high. About 3200 is where you need to be. As others have said, the shocks and suspension are key. You definitely have to control the front rise rate AND the rear extension. Whatever you know about making slicks work, will NOT apply to drag radials

Monte

My wheels are 12". Like I said, I tried 17 PSI and it went worse but I had the launch RPM up as high as the 'vert would go. Just not getting slammed back into the seat like with the slicks. Some racers in the stands said it was like the car squatted and the tires squatted also and then rebounded like a basketball. I have not touched the shocks or 4 link at all. I think my next move is to wire in the TB and let the pill set launch RPM and tinker with that. Maybe get somebody to video the launches and see it in slomo.

I know it should 60 a lot better than what I am getting with the FB.

Monte, you wanna come up some time and help?

You said it looks like a bouncing ball leaving the line, it needs good shocks. A radial at your power level will not work with out them.

Power management has allot to do with it . My car had rancho's on the rear 90/10 on the front . Caltracs bars can control the hit as well , I know ur on a 4 link and u can change the way it hits the tire . U should fall in somewhere between 16-18 lbs

The shocks may be the culprit. Or the IC needs to change from the slicks. I had one hit last Friday and it blew launching at 3600 and 23 PSI to baseline. Never got a second try.

Talking to previous owners the car should stick and 60 in the low teens (with slicks). But they were spraying.

I am changing out the motor now so we'll see what it does with the new one.