Re: Garage / Shop concrete Paint / Epoxy
[Re: A/MP]
#162755
12/05/08 09:49 PM
12/05/08 09:49 PM
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Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 173
Tucson AZ
2cudabuck
member
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member
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 173
Tucson AZ
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I just did a giant shop with Ucoat it. AWSOME results, tough as nails. follow instructions with the acid bath and stuff. We used the ufleck but not the sodium traction stuff. It's worth the money.
Buck
67 273 Dart GT
69 RT 440 Charger (SWEET!)
70 318 Cuda
74 Cuda Packin a 426 roller Hemi
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Re: Garage / Shop concrete Paint / Epoxy
[Re: larry4406]
#162759
12/06/08 10:58 AM
12/06/08 10:58 AM
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,059
NW/Indiana - Chi town
ricomondo
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,059
NW/Indiana - Chi town
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I used the U coat it system, just the plain gray finish with no terazzo flakes. If you use this system, be sure to use the aluminum chloride (IIRC). Its basically a sand like grit that you spread out over the floor, or else when it gets wet...look out, it'll be a skating rink. U can see it under my car in my sig pic.
GY3 71 Demon 340
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Re: Garage / Shop concrete Paint / Epoxy
[Re: ricomondo]
#162760
12/11/08 10:46 PM
12/11/08 10:46 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,488
Annapolis, MD, USA
Vert
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,488
Annapolis, MD, USA
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Quote:
I used the U coat it system, just the plain gray finish with no terazzo flakes. If you use this system, be sure to use the aluminum chloride (IIRC). Its basically a sand like grit that you spread out over the floor, or else when it gets wet...look out, it'll be a skating rink. U can see it under my car in my sig pic.
Ditto on the UCoatit. I used the fleck, but not the grit. Use the grit if you will ever walk on it wet!
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Re: Garage / Shop concrete Paint / Epoxy
[Re: BergmanAutoCraft]
#162762
12/12/08 01:27 AM
12/12/08 01:27 AM
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Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,319
Puyallup, WA
StealthWedge67
master
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master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,319
Puyallup, WA
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I used the Rust-O-Leum kit last summer and so far so good. I'm pretty happy with it. I spent the better part of a couple days prepping the floor. As with any finish, the prep work is the most important part. Show me a floor that is peeling up, and I'll show you a guy that most likely didn't properly prep that floor.
LemonWedge - Street heavy / Strip ready - 11.07 @ 120
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Re: Garage / Shop concrete Paint / Epoxy
[Re: Stanton]
#162769
12/12/08 05:10 PM
12/12/08 05:10 PM
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 3,968
North Riverside IL & Lowell IN
GTXKen
super gas
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super gas
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 3,968
North Riverside IL & Lowell IN
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Quote:
I've had 7 homes and tried different materials on every one of them. U-coat was out of my price range for the size of my shop so I just used a sealer on the concrete. UC301 on fresh concrete as soon as the puddles are gone !!!
The stuff is great and doesn't chip BUT its not impervious to gas or strong thinners. Its also clear so doesn't add any "pretty" to the shop.
If I were doing it again I'd do 2 things different ...
1) I would have them put a hardener in the concrete - this is done after its poured and has set a bit. You can drop and engine block on it and it wouldn't chip!
2) I'd just seal it with Thompson's water seal - for the sole purpose of keeping the dust down and so liquids don't soak in.
Anything else and you spend more time keeping it pretty than working on your stuff!
I like this keep it simple approach
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Re: Garage / Shop concrete Paint / Epoxy
[Re: Dan Brewer]
#162770
12/12/08 08:39 PM
12/12/08 08:39 PM
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Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 182
Pennsylvania
cantspel
member
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member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 182
Pennsylvania
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I used the rust-oleum on new concrete in my garage. I do a fair amount of side work and have a lift, so my floor gets used. It has stuck very well, (been 3 years) not peeling anywhere, again I think that is proper prep. BUT, It will not take brake or carb cleaner. Coolant, oil, brake fluid, all mop up. But don't think about hosing off an oil leak with brake or carb cleaner, it will eat the paint....quickly. Don't even spray it on a rag and wipe up a spot, you will get paint. The rust-oleum is not what I would call professional grade. But has held up well otherwise. You can roll cranes, jacks and other heavy items that you might think would be an issue with the paint. No matter what you put down, its time consuming and after shop is setup, is a pain to do again, so I would spend the extra $ to get something commercial grade, and ask specifically about the chemicals you plan to use and there compatiability. 
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it runs about $6.00 bux a square foot but you can take it with you when you move.